I would like some feedback about the amps, anything that you can provide.
I bought a couple of cases and knobs (all silver) from you back in the day and thought they were nicely done and I like how they shipped flat. How's about smaller "false fronts" though: As these aren't rack-mountable, why have the front panel overhang the edges of the cabinet so much. In fact, why not eliminate most of the overhang altogether.
Size-wise, a full-sized cabinet, and 1/2 or even 1/3rd-width variants might also be nice, for those who may wish to build power supply, line level and phono into 3 cabinets, yet still be able to line them up side-by-side on the same shelf.
I don't know how practical this would be, but if there were some way to ensure good electrical conductivity between the various panels and partitions, that would be nice too.
Okay this certainly sounds like a possibility, but unfortunately it's still not high enough volume and demand. What I will do though, is re-introduce the following chassis without heatsinks: 0908 <- will move this to a slightly larger size such as 1010, 1712 should stay the same, 1013 and 0610 would also stay the same I think.
Now that I am NOT going to distribute these chassis myself, I can certainly provide this service: watch you guys at diyaudio and work with you to come up with a universal (or close to it) for the Pass amps. Then once we have a large enough hands raised for them, I can process the order. We need to be looking at 50+ chassis in a batch to make this reasonable.
I'll bring my site back up in awhile, but with a notice or something and no links to the chassis builder and checkout. In the meantime to refresh your memory, please see:
DIY Enclosures LLC - Chassis
Okay, count me in for a chassis that will accomodate the F5. Either silver or black color. I think 1013 will be plenty big and enough for heatsinking needs of an F5. I have Cviller's "version 2" boards for the F5. A lot of people have Cviller's version 2 boards so might want to check with him about MOSFET spacing for drilling issues.
I think if people start chiming in, we should hopefully get to 50 chassis (minimum) pretty fast.
Thanks,
Anand.
Here's one of my F5's in a DIY Enclosure chassis -- handles are from Home Depot:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Okay, count me in for a chassis that will accomodate the F5. Either silver or black color. I think 1013 will be plenty big and enough for heatsinking needs of an F5. I have Cviller's "version 2" boards for the F5. A lot of people have Cviller's version 2 boards so might want to check with him about MOSFET spacing for drilling issues.
I think if people start chiming in, we should hopefully get to 50 chassis (minimum) pretty fast.
Thanks,
Anand.
Alright cool... Let's start a separate thread though and leave this one for discussion of the standard line of chassis.
Thanks!
-MW
I bought a couple of cases and knobs (all silver) from you back in the day and thought they were nicely done and I like how they shipped flat. How's about smaller "false fronts" though: As these aren't rack-mountable, why have the front panel overhang the edges of the cabinet so much. In fact, why not eliminate most of the overhang altogether.
Okay that is very doable and could potentially save a huge portion of expense. That front panel is the most expensive part. Do we have any other opinions in that regard?
Size-wise, a full-sized cabinet, and 1/2 or even 1/3rd-width variants might also be nice, for those who may wish to build power supply, line level and phono into 3 cabinets, yet still be able to line them up side-by-side on the same shelf.
Very doable... Anyone else??
I don't know how practical this would be, but if there were some way to ensure good electrical conductivity between the various panels and partitions, that would be nice too.
That would be a ground bus. For beginners it's easy to get wrong though. I could probably write a little something up on doing it correctly.
Okay that is very doable and could potentially save a huge portion of expense. That front panel is the most expensive part. Do we have any other opinions in that regard?
Very doable... Anyone else??
That would be a ground bus. For beginners it's easy to get wrong though. I could probably write a little something up on doing it correctly.
Er sorry I read that a second time and realized my mistake. I believe the PEM nuts are a very electrically sound connection though.
-MW
Scaling back on the front panel is okay. I have two chassis and while they look great, the thickness of the front panel is a bit out of proportion. Scaling back in thickness and overhang might alleviate some of the proportionality 'issues' (aesthetic only).
I do really like the chassis options you have provided. I would be in for more and in particular, something to suit the various Pass First Watt amps.
Thanks very much.
Ryan
I do really like the chassis options you have provided. I would be in for more and in particular, something to suit the various Pass First Watt amps.
Thanks very much.
Ryan
For comments on the Pass-Style chassis, please migrate over to:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/vendors-bazaar/166833-diy-enclosures-chassis-pass-labs-style.html
In regards to this thread - Do we need to have the blind threads for the front panels? I thought it was nice, as nobody else has front panels without bolts showing through. If you really like that look, you could add the bolts, or add those really cool looking handles like above from Home Depot!
Anyway... definitely going to work on scaling down the front panel a bit. I think this is great.. I hope that price comes down enough so that we can have .08in thick all around. Will keep the .06in around for the best priced, best looking chassis around, though!!!
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/vendors-bazaar/166833-diy-enclosures-chassis-pass-labs-style.html
In regards to this thread - Do we need to have the blind threads for the front panels? I thought it was nice, as nobody else has front panels without bolts showing through. If you really like that look, you could add the bolts, or add those really cool looking handles like above from Home Depot!
Anyway... definitely going to work on scaling down the front panel a bit. I think this is great.. I hope that price comes down enough so that we can have .08in thick all around. Will keep the .06in around for the best priced, best looking chassis around, though!!!
I, for one, am a huge fan of the 'no bolts on the front panel' look. I vote to keep it around!
One of my sons asked "Why is there an Allen Screw on the front of your amplifier(s)?"
Turns out that the placement of the transformer on the front panel resulted in the lowest noise and 60Hz emissions.
Opinion on preamp-style chassis
Did people like having the preamp style front panels and knobs available? I think this should be the last survey before I get the samples going. Thanks for your input!
For your reference:
http://web.archive.org/web/20070103...img/products/1712/DIY1712_Front_Knobs_Big.jpg
Did people like having the preamp style front panels and knobs available? I think this should be the last survey before I get the samples going. Thanks for your input!
For your reference:
http://web.archive.org/web/20070103...img/products/1712/DIY1712_Front_Knobs_Big.jpg
Did people like having the preamp style front panels and knobs available?
I liked them but don't know if they need to be so big especially if the faceplates wind up being smaller.
Heavier-gauge bottom panel in particular might be nice for those heavy transformers and so would pre-cut adhesive linoleum or cork for deadening all of those panels.
I liked them but don't know if they need to be so big especially if the faceplates wind up being smaller.
Heavier-gauge bottom panel in particular might be nice for those heavy transformers and so would pre-cut adhesive linoleum or cork for deadening all of those panels.
I can certainly scale them down a bit along with the excess size of the front panels.
Did people like having the preamp style front panels and knobs available? I think this should be the last survey before I get the samples going. Thanks for your input!
For your reference:
http://web.archive.org/web/20070103...img/products/1712/DIY1712_Front_Knobs_Big.jpg
I thought they were "interesting" but not much more. I normally do not need them, and on the occasion that I have wanted front panel controls, I am not interested in the positioning (internal layout) of the knobs, or I only wanted one, etc...
What I am thinking is that they are not as useful as the plain chassis and would not seem worth stocking for the smaller market they represent. I'm happy installing my own knobs, switches, etc...
Website not working?
How come your website is not working? I went to http://www.diyenclosures.com/
but the displayed page was just blank.
How come your website is not working? I went to http://www.diyenclosures.com/
but the displayed page was just blank.
Hey guys, you can see the old website here:
http://web.archive.org/web/20071009171544/www.diyenclosures.com/products/chassis/
These latest posts from me though, are targeted simply at getting your feedback before revising the new run of chassis. I'll get the website back up after I have a viable sample of new chassis.
Thanks,
-Michael Woods
http://web.archive.org/web/20071009171544/www.diyenclosures.com/products/chassis/
These latest posts from me though, are targeted simply at getting your feedback before revising the new run of chassis. I'll get the website back up after I have a viable sample of new chassis.
Thanks,
-Michael Woods
Preamp
I have a couple of the pre-amp chassis. My opinion is: if going without the nobs on the front panel saves some money, I would prefer to go without them. As mentioned, having them in a fixed location limits, to some extent, the layout options within. So my preference would be for a blank, slightly scaled down front panel.
On the other hand, having the IEC plug, switch fuse, combo on the back is a 'must have' in my opinion. It is very convenient.
Thanks,
Ryan
I have a couple of the pre-amp chassis. My opinion is: if going without the nobs on the front panel saves some money, I would prefer to go without them. As mentioned, having them in a fixed location limits, to some extent, the layout options within. So my preference would be for a blank, slightly scaled down front panel.
On the other hand, having the IEC plug, switch fuse, combo on the back is a 'must have' in my opinion. It is very convenient.
Thanks,
Ryan
I'll get the website back up after I have a viable sample of new chassis.
Hey Michael, I'm looking forward to your new site ... I just landed on the blank page after a Google search and assumed you'd gone out of business!!! Perhaps a line of text at a bare minimum that lets people know you're in a transition period?
This is a final call before doing a final adjustment on the chassis design and dimensions.
So far I am reducing the front-panel depth slightly, reducing the overhang on the front-panel to something minimal. I will not be providing the chassis feet since they were not the best and they are not cost effective to provide.
Chassis dimension changes -
DIY1712 going to 17x14x3.5
DIY1013 going to 12x14x7
DIY0908 going to 10x10x3.5
DIY0610 going to stay the same as 6x10x3.5
The x14 depth chassis will have an integrated heatsink in development to accommodate Pass DIY.
Regards,
-Michael Woods
So far I am reducing the front-panel depth slightly, reducing the overhang on the front-panel to something minimal. I will not be providing the chassis feet since they were not the best and they are not cost effective to provide.
Chassis dimension changes -
DIY1712 going to 17x14x3.5
DIY1013 going to 12x14x7
DIY0908 going to 10x10x3.5
DIY0610 going to stay the same as 6x10x3.5
The x14 depth chassis will have an integrated heatsink in development to accommodate Pass DIY.
Regards,
-Michael Woods
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
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