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GB for DC coupled B1 buffer with shunt PSUs

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Joined 2002
Thanks a lot for giving me the recognition I truely deserve :eek:

Ah, always cynical at the wrong moments. I enjoyed it a lot and you can be proud of the results. Although I don't know you and the others involved personally I felt we were sharing a common goal. That itself was rewarding, for me even more than having the actual device playing at home.

I hope that now Part 1 is finished people will realize that you, CRT and the "always envelope licking, PCB sending" Tea-Bag ( and his partner ) all have done a tremendous job. I hope you will go the way Twisted Pear have gone.

edit: I see you are still editing the previous post as we speak and that no real commercial route will be taken. Well, have a drink or two anyway on the success, you all deserve it !

Let this thread be finished and please open a new Part 2 thread !
 
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diyAudio Chief Moderator
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We already covered the main demand by GB I guess. We would be lousy in kits business planning.:D But thanks for your kind words, and I think that you should develop your integrated idea non the less. We will open the ''Blue'' GB thread when we will hear further from CRT and the PCB makers.
 
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http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/grou...pled-b1-buffer-shunt-psus-71.html#post1927410

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/grou...pled-b1-buffer-shunt-psus-78.html#post1928804

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/grou...pled-b1-buffer-shunt-psus-77.html#post1928401

Above are the first made. Here is the last shown: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass...ymmetrical-psu-b1-buffer-129.html#post2150334, and has both inside.

One idea, two children. One band two songs. One larger and fully on board relay input switched, the other smaller, straight in, out. Different strokes for different folks.;)
 
hey guys, with so many versions getting about, where would I find the BOM and schematic for the D1 (symmetric) found in a varied form here I just bought a couple of PCBs and apparently it follows the regular D1 schematic and parts (though some values have been altered for use with the sabre dac)

thanks in advance for any pointers and a job well done to the team of this considerable undertaking
 
hey guys, with so many versions getting about, where would I find the BOM and schematic for the D1 (symmetric) found in a varied form here I just bought a couple of PCBs and apparently it follows the regular D1 schematic and parts (though some values have been altered for use with the sabre dac)

thanks in advance for any pointers and a job well done to the team of this considerable undertaking

D1 is a DAC, and what you bought is the i/v stage from the DAC.
 
ah IC, no wonder. I know I only bought the IV, thats all I wanted as its going on the ackodac. I just thought it was yet another acronym. so I need the D1B1 of course, but which BOM do I use? from pierre's post I gathered he has been using this on his buffalo v1 for some time, so I didnt think it could be owen's BOM and schematic, but maybe i'm wrong. guess i'll just wait for pierre's reply on the matter.

he said to see the D1 BOM specifically, so you cant realy blame my confusiuon. so I guess I just use the D1 BOM, but only use the buffer section?

PierreQuiRoule said:
As it turns out, I have been using a D1 I/V stage with an original buffalo DAC for about a year now. Sound is laid back, with layers and layers of detail. It compares favorably to anything I have heard.

As Owen pointed out, new DACs like the ESS swing more current than the PCM63. Referring to the original schematic, I made the following changes to increase bias threefold:
- R26, R33 decreased from 3.3 K to 1 K
- R27, R34 decreased from 1.5 K to 470 ohms

To keep the same cutoff frequencies (RC) for the low pass filters, the following capacitors were adjusted accordingly:
- C40, C45 increased from .01 to .033 uF
- C15, C16 increased from .0027 to .0086 uF

I could not trim the output voltage to 1.65 V without reducing R24, R31 from 100 K to 68 K. The rest of the D1 I/V circuit is stock......

snip/ Part numbers match the D1 schematic./snip
 
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diyAudio Chief Moderator
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In the cooking

I cooperated further with CRT and this is the outcome. It has beefed up PSU for more uF by paralleling filter caps, and TO-220 diodes option. That will make it better when running high current and will take advantage of the thicker copper pcb planned. Big Rset places for hot current users too. Its also turned around for having the PSU to its left as the standard goes. J1,J2 jumper designation for those who tend to forget, and orthodox plus side Vref Jfet connection since the higher current offsets the unorthodox connection's subjective benefit to its most in my experience. That will give intuitive results for +/- Vout for builders also. Jfets will go in as is if used for regs only too. Film caps mod for string of 5 bypass also of course. Roughly 155mm X 68mm. It looks OK to me, we need one proto so to know all will work out fine in production though, and see about costs, because we want to make it double the previous copper thickness, plated holes for sturdy pads which count as double layer pcb cost, and its bigger. The repeatable fine sound quality reports so far by so many builders, plus the quality resistors, best caps, LSPDs, switcher pots, silver cabling, expensive RCA terminals used etc, probably deserve no skimping for the special edition board. The beefier rectification and filter section plus heavier copper, will come handy to those using it as a high current shunt reg platform only too. More news, when there will be.

P.S. I am including the CCT again for review against layout, maybe I missed some error and could be pointed out by the keen eyed among you sooner than trouble.
 

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I cannot evaluate film cap bypass pitch correctly, but I presume it's 10, 12.5 and 15 mm.
IMHO it should be 5, 10 and 15 mm which are the most frequent std pitch for film caps. 5 mm can be useful for Elcaps too.

I would use 15 mm pitch for std Rset too. Now there's space enough. Doing so people can accomodate a pair of 2 watt resistor. 17.5 mm for 3 watt like the very common blue Pana.

Moreover the pads for the two 600 ohms resistors (to be used with 5 or 6 V relays) can be joined by a track: no jumper required for 12 V relay, cut the track and insert resistors for 5 or 6 V relay.
 
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The layout details are on crt and I don't know his eagle constrains or free time, but this is his 3rd attempt on blue. Will send him a link with your extra suggestions, maybe he can/will do something in time or not, but the Gerber is produced and Tea has to arrange for a proto in due time.