Not much in a TH from a SPL Vs bulk POV, i.e. a relatively huge cab (~523 L) for not a lot of peak SPL (~110 dB/m), though it won't need much power either (~13 W/4.67 ohms), so at least thermal power compression shouldn't be an issue.
GM
Indeed, but I'm not going to try and reverse engineer either design, so without a schematic they're both just overly complex looking designs to me. Good luck with it though!
GM
Sorry to interupt guys I've just realized that I've had this sub in my little hatchback for the past year! 
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=426358
Only just got it out of a sealed box an read the serial no. into google!
Any use in a tapped horn?
I'll model it myself if some one can post the whereabouts of the hornresp help wiki please..?
No wonder my ears are ringing..........
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=426358
Only just got it out of a sealed box an read the serial no. into google!
Any use in a tapped horn?
I'll model it myself if some one can post the whereabouts of the hornresp help wiki please..?
No wonder my ears are ringing..........
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Hi to all,
I would like to hear your opinions about this project
It is supposed to be a small subwoofer for a small room, 2ch music only.
The driver displacement is 7mm linear and 11mm before damage.
I intend to filter below 30Hz for safety and 95-100db is enough for my needs.
Are the sections and lengths well placed in the last picture?
I would appreciate any comment.
thanks
Highef
I would like to hear your opinions about this project
It is supposed to be a small subwoofer for a small room, 2ch music only.
The driver displacement is 7mm linear and 11mm before damage.
I intend to filter below 30Hz for safety and 95-100db is enough for my needs.
Are the sections and lengths well placed in the last picture?
I would appreciate any comment.
thanks
Highef
Hi to all,
I would like to hear your opinions about this project
It is supposed to be a small subwoofer for a small room, 2ch music only.
The driver displacement is 7mm linear and 11mm before damage.
I intend to filter below 30Hz for safety and 95-100db is enough for my needs.
Are the sections and lengths well placed in the last picture?
I would appreciate any comment.
thanks
Highef
It might be a little underwhelming @ 30Hz without more headroom. Its better to have extra headroom available in the sub range. But you may do ok with room gain.
...It is supposed to be a small subwoofer for a small room, 2ch music only...
...I would appreciate any comment...
Hi Highef,
Your TH looks possible, but I would prefer a stuffed T-TQWT for size, no need for equalisation and of most importance: the SQ reasons.
b
Attachments
That should work. Your drawing seems to match up well with what you simulated.
Due to the corners, your actual length may be a bit longer than your path line indicates, but the differences should not be enough to worry about. The critical dimensions are L12 and L34, those are straight lines so there is not much chance for errors there.
Due to the corners, your actual length may be a bit longer than your path line indicates, but the differences should not be enough to worry about. The critical dimensions are L12 and L34, those are straight lines so there is not much chance for errors there.
After doing extensive searches here I didn't find many references on T-TQWT cabinets.
In the few posts I found (most from bjorno) I saw people doing S4 as a circular opening right above the driver.
It seems to me hard to match L34 and S4 this way. TH folding method is quite similar (reversed) and don't predict that change.
What would you say about that in practice? Anyone has T-TQWT measurements?
thank you
Highef
In the few posts I found (most from bjorno) I saw people doing S4 as a circular opening right above the driver.
It seems to me hard to match L34 and S4 this way. TH folding method is quite similar (reversed) and don't predict that change.
What would you say about that in practice? Anyone has T-TQWT measurements?
thank you
Highef
Unfortunately, a hard drive crash after I built that sub caused me to lose my measurement data, permanently.
From what I remember, impedance measurement was close to the design and sound quality was even from about 30 Hz to 100 Hz or more i.e. no rising response to tame. Good impact to the bass. I dumped that prototype when I moved earlier this year though I would definately consider building a proper version again when I need to. Some folks who heard it liked it better, within its limits, than the much larger and efficient bill fitzmaurice table tuba I also had in the system at the time.
To answer another question, I'm guessing having the terminus adjacent to the driver (as oposed to theend of the line) gives us some direct radiator action, though I never compared that vs. terminus at end.
From what I remember, impedance measurement was close to the design and sound quality was even from about 30 Hz to 100 Hz or more i.e. no rising response to tame. Good impact to the bass. I dumped that prototype when I moved earlier this year though I would definately consider building a proper version again when I need to. Some folks who heard it liked it better, within its limits, than the much larger and efficient bill fitzmaurice table tuba I also had in the system at the time.
To answer another question, I'm guessing having the terminus adjacent to the driver (as oposed to theend of the line) gives us some direct radiator action, though I never compared that vs. terminus at end.
Hi mwinger,
See the picture: IMO, Both the TH and T-TQWT should work well in a home venue without signal delaying the main speakers.
Search: EVM-15B-Pro-lineEDS.pdf for TS data,I tried the data from The Thiele-Small Loudspeaker Database. You might have other measured data to enter in HR?
b
Attachments
DIY Tapped horn Vs Tuba 60?
Heylo folks!
Very curious subject this thread!
I'm in the process of building a sound system for my own purposes (dj'ing and such), and I'm building 4 Tuba 60's (Tuba 60) and 4 dr200's (DR200).
After browsing over ~100 pages of this enormous thread, I was wondering of anyone has built and tested any tapped horns that would be a match or better to the 30" wide Tuba 60's (with 2 Lab 12's). The spec's seem rather impressive to me (these plans have been out for about a week now).
My crossover point will be around 90 Hz, and I'm looking for great extension down to 20 Hz (I play much VERY bass heavy music).
I'm interested in actual results Vs a theoretical idea. I'd love to hear what you've tried, and I'm happy to follow links!
CHEERS!!!
C-RAD.
Heylo folks!
Very curious subject this thread!
I'm in the process of building a sound system for my own purposes (dj'ing and such), and I'm building 4 Tuba 60's (Tuba 60) and 4 dr200's (DR200).
After browsing over ~100 pages of this enormous thread, I was wondering of anyone has built and tested any tapped horns that would be a match or better to the 30" wide Tuba 60's (with 2 Lab 12's). The spec's seem rather impressive to me (these plans have been out for about a week now).
My crossover point will be around 90 Hz, and I'm looking for great extension down to 20 Hz (I play much VERY bass heavy music).
I'm interested in actual results Vs a theoretical idea. I'd love to hear what you've tried, and I'm happy to follow links!
CHEERS!!!
C-RAD.
Hello, good people of diyAudio. Long time lurker, first time poster. I thought I would add my own tapped horn project to this thread for posterity, if only because not too many people have used these woofers in a TH. This is already well past the building stage, so I won't go into too many details on it here. There's a long thread at AVS and an even longer one at HTS that goes into all the gory details.
I'm calling this thing the Wolfhorn. I was calling it Wolfhorn II, because there were two others I was working on at the same time, but this'll be the only one of them to see reality. The idea was to use this build to try and learn about tapped horns as best I could, and I got a lot of much appreciated help from a lot of people that helped me put my brain cells in line so I could understand these.
Note that this is not the best sim I can get with these woofers. The idea was to make it easy to build for a first time effort, so I made a few little sacrifices with the response. I wanted 115dB at the couch from this thing for movies - anything extra was gravy. It's designed for corner loading, because that's the only way I can place it in the room.
Woofers used are two Tang Band W8Q-1071F models with 12mm Xmax. As modeled and built, this is a 16Hz design. Box is 74" x 42" x 17" - it's a big one. Mounted on casters for easier moving. SPL measurements done yesterday confirm that it is indeed able to meet my desired SPL number at the listening position with about 200 watts in. Does into the low 120's at one meter.
Hornresp record attached for the curious.
A few pictures:
Don't laugh too hard at my right main speaker there - that was an ultra low budget build. I'm talking $15 per speaker for seven channels
No side to side bracing - something I should have employed. Would have, too, had I not gotten frustrated with the other bracing.
This is in room response at listening position with no EQ and Reckhorn B-2 subsonic filter set at 10Hz. I have a 30% 20Hz boost on it to level it out.
Total cost of the whole project was under $500 Canadian.
I'm calling this thing the Wolfhorn. I was calling it Wolfhorn II, because there were two others I was working on at the same time, but this'll be the only one of them to see reality. The idea was to use this build to try and learn about tapped horns as best I could, and I got a lot of much appreciated help from a lot of people that helped me put my brain cells in line so I could understand these.
Note that this is not the best sim I can get with these woofers. The idea was to make it easy to build for a first time effort, so I made a few little sacrifices with the response. I wanted 115dB at the couch from this thing for movies - anything extra was gravy. It's designed for corner loading, because that's the only way I can place it in the room.
Woofers used are two Tang Band W8Q-1071F models with 12mm Xmax. As modeled and built, this is a 16Hz design. Box is 74" x 42" x 17" - it's a big one. Mounted on casters for easier moving. SPL measurements done yesterday confirm that it is indeed able to meet my desired SPL number at the listening position with about 200 watts in. Does into the low 120's at one meter.
Hornresp record attached for the curious.
A few pictures:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Don't laugh too hard at my right main speaker there - that was an ultra low budget build. I'm talking $15 per speaker for seven channels
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
No side to side bracing - something I should have employed. Would have, too, had I not gotten frustrated with the other bracing.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This is in room response at listening position with no EQ and Reckhorn B-2 subsonic filter set at 10Hz. I have a 30% 20Hz boost on it to level it out.
Total cost of the whole project was under $500 Canadian.
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