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GB for DC coupled B1 buffer with shunt PSUs

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I guess that is another note to add to the assmebly guide is that the pot is mounted to the bottom of the board, not the top.

Are you sure? Crt and the others never mentioned. This is a functional mistake if so and I have to ask him to revise it along the silk screen additions. Grufti uses a pot too. Is it reversed? BillyK connects the LSPD normally? Need input from all proto builders on this.

P.S. Here are the pads and the routing, as well as a typical 27mm Alps blue.
 

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Are you sure? Crt and the others never mentioned. This is a functional mistake if so and I have to ask him to revise it along the silk screen additions. Grufti uses a pot too. Is it reversed? BillyK connects the LSPD normally? Need input from all proto builders on this.

P.S. Here are the pads and the routing, as well as a typical 27mm Alps blue.

Salas,
I may not be thinking this through, but I assume that the pot just may face the other direction. A 180 degree shift on the board. Doesn't that solve the problem?
 
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OK we found a logical explanation. The board goes near the back for close wiring to IN/OUT and the pot looks with its shaft towards the board's inside. So when the front of the box faces it, the legends read correct. That is why he left an open corridor. OK, Indiana, errr, Tea - Bag, deciphered that.:cool: Tell me now why no chatter on Omron 12V too?:D
 

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diyAudio Chief Moderator
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Salas,
I may not be thinking this through, but I assume that the pot just may face the other direction. A 180 degree shift on the board. Doesn't that solve the problem?

Just got email:

halo

-about Pot. i have checked. compare to Fred design
nothing wrong (just rotate 180 degree my version, and you get a same pinout) ???
-for LED position, i have fix it. i hope you like it (see attachment)
just tell me if something wrong.

Regards
La Ode
 
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I wasn't sure what was intended with the pot and simply connected it the way it seemed to make sense from looking at the traces on the pcb.

You did, else you would say its reversed, but the thing probably got mixed bcs Ferds had his pot facing out, so people saw those photos, and it is very intuitive too. For someone who will fix the pot directly that is. Else its just wiring.

Are you a balance engineer in a studio or live BTW?
 
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OK we found a logical explanation. The board goes near the back for close wiring to IN/OUT and the pot looks with its shaft towards the board's inside. So when the front of the box faces it, the legends read correct. That is why he left an open corridor. OK, Indiana, errr, Tea - Bag, deciphered that.:cool: Tell me now why no chatter on Omron 12V too?:D

Got the new Gerbers.
I can't tell too much more about the relays, other than BillyK's gift of BC550s did not stop the chatter either, so I think placing different bipolar there does not help, and that different relay's seem to be cause of problem.

Maybe more builders will come into the mix soon..If the international builders ever get there boards. Maybe the bom should make a preference to Omrom 12v, if they are easily available.
 
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I have a spare 2x18V, 50VA Avel Lindberg transformer...
Would this be enough to power two Hypnotize boards (to form a balanced B1 buffer)?

It will just drop enough voltage across the CCS Mosfets and will make them hot, so you must screw them down against box's metal floor or sink them. Also your main filter caps must be 35V with such a PTX. 50VA is ample.
 
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Got the new Gerbers.
I can't tell too much more about the relays, other than BillyK's gift of BC550s did not stop the chatter either, so I think placing different bipolar there does not help, and that different relay's seem to be cause of problem.

Maybe more builders will come into the mix soon..If the international builders ever get there boards. Maybe the bom should make a preference to Omrom 12v, if they are easily available.

Good. La Ode told me that he did not touch the copper layer, just added legends, but he wants a second look from you guys, just to assure everything is in order. He even mentions the jumper or not 12V - 5V relay option on the silk, marked the facing of the pot, put one oriented semicircle over each leds string to indicate their heading, added 7812, 100nF missing legends, and 1,2,3,4,5,6,GND for the selector header.

After all protos report and Gerber's cool...then....

Calling the BOM master in next I guess.:king:
 
It will just drop enough voltage across the CCS Mosfets and will make them hot, so you must screw them down against box's metal floor or sink them. Also your main filter caps must be 35V with such a PTX. 50VA is ample.

I was worried 50VA wouldn't be enough to power two B1 boards and I missed the real problem which would be the 25V caps I was planning to use. :eek:
I'll have to "downgrade" to FCs I suppose. :p

Thanks! :)
 
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I'm waiting for all your inputs to modify the BOM.
Ready :cool:

:D OK. Going back you will see that someone found more correct 1.8Vf leds in Mouser, that Billyk said something about the male headers - female headers, there is one 150nF Ceramic comp cap to include because we had 2 weird relays, and it must be there listed in any case. Omron 12V worked as Nais 12V & 5V. Also mini sinks or floor pads for all Mosfets and mini sink for 7812 must be optionally included for hot cases/stronger PTXs, there is one nice Hammond low profile split bobbin 2X15V 50VA to also consider listing for choice. The relay driving NPNs don't matter in the end, can be all 550B or C not to chase different. Takmans for audio side 220K and 220R, 1M, proved very good. Dale or PRP for the rest good. So they must be referenced if someone will buy boutique. 1 six way low cost encased switch and a typical base Alps blue 27 class 2X20k +/-5k stereo log must be mentioned. Also a link to Lightspeed thread for the daring ones, since BillyK got a serious performance lift from it, we still look for him! That's all I remember for now.:spin: