Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D: need xover part#, specs or schematic (funny story & too!)
TL;DR;
I need the part number or the values and pinouts for the subwoofer cross over component on the Rockford Fosgate Punch P1000X5D Amp that goes here:
and looks like this
-----------------------
Here's the whole (rather amusing) story... if you're up for a good read
I had (and still have) a Rockford Fosgate Punch P1000X5D Amp that sank when I accidentally submerged my 4Runner in brackish water in the Potomac river!!
(That's me about 3 years ago... trying to save my RF amp!!!
The truck was already totalled
, I just didn't know that yet.
As for the boat that was sitting on the attached trailer...
the boat floated
, so the boat was OK too !!! 
)
Can anyone give me the part number or at least the specs and pinout info for the subwoofer crossover on this amp?
I need to replace the crossover component soldered to the amp's board.
Alternatively, with the right info, I could remove it entirely, and solder in wires and/or resistors with correct values to simulate the crossover being set at the highest frequency for the sub crossover, and just use it like that. I have an upstream sound processor, so I don't need the amp's xover anyway.
The subwoofer crossover component is a 14 pin potentiometer like the one pictured earlier in this post.
Here's some info on a look-alike part that I found, but IT COULD BE THE WRONG PART... so that's why I'm asking for help.
-----------
Here's the rest of this tale of woe -- if you're up for an amusing read.
After I sank my truck with my amp installed...
I dried them both out
(both the truck and the amp), but I only got the amp working again. R.I.P 4Runner, my trusty old friend. 
However, the amp bounced back to 100% !!!!
and was working fine for 3+ years !!!!
... but now, 3+ years later, the subwoofer stopped working -- it puts out no sound at all
and after looking at it, I'm convinced that the potentiometer for the subwoofer crossover is bad, so I'm looking for the part number for the component to replace, or info on the ohm readings across the correct pins when the sub xover is turned to its highest frequency setting so that I can just remove the component and solder in wires and fixed value resistors across the correct pins to make the amp think that the sub xover is permanently turned to the highest frequency setting.
I don't know the correct part number, specs or pinouts for the part, and
just because I found a look-alike part (see image earlier in post)
... doesn't mean that it has the correct connections across the 14 different pins, much less the required resistance values --
(This is the pinout for the unknown part I found)
..and blindly experimenting to "see what happens" could be disastrous if want to use this amp for anything other than a boat anchor.
My symptom is this: 3+ years after sinking the amp in brackish water, the subwoofer stopped playing -- no highlevel sub output, regardless of the input or the amp's settings. After some diagnostics, I found slight corrosion on the pins for subwoofer crossover (inside the amp) and I discovered that when I place my finger on the pins on the back of the subwoofer crossover potentiometer, then it starts working again!!!
For whatever reason, only my finger works for this temporary fix. If I touch or press the same pins or anywhere else in the area with the plastic end of a small screwdriver (for example), it has no effect, and the sub output remains silent.
*Maybe reflowing the solder would fix it -- I don't know -- But the problem could also be inside the pot itself. Moreover, I'd rather just replace it the part with a compatible potentiometer, or wire some straight wires and fixed resistor values in its place, so that I can count on having a reliable fix. I don't need the sub crossover anyway. I have a sound processor where I can condition the sound and set the crossover point upstream of the the amp's line level input.
That's the whole backstory of what I'm trying to do
and why.
----------
How did I revive the amp after my U-boat experience?
1) Uninstalled amp, and removed the bottom cover, exposing the boards and all internals.
2) Flushed everything, especially the inside, with lots of fresh water from a garden hose.
3) Let it dry in the sun for a couple hours, after doing what I could to dry it with paper towels... but I didn't leave it too long, because I didn't want rust or corrosion to begin forming...
4) Soaked EVERYTHING by pouring transmission fluid everywhere inside the amp (as in using the whole bottle... a full 1 quart!!!), and let it sit that way in the sun inside a plastic tub for about a week.
5) Tried to get the transmission fluid out.
6) Used lots of blue "shop" paper towels to sop up the mess. Put them inside, packed areas, and changed them as needed. About 1 week.
7) Poured 20W50 motor oil inside the amp, and made sure it got everywhere.
8) Did the best I could to get most of it out, using gravity, blue shop paper towels, and patience over a couple of days.
9) Put it all back together, and even thought it was oily -- especially inside -- it worked!!!!! 100%
-Phil
TL;DR;
I need the part number or the values and pinouts for the subwoofer cross over component on the Rockford Fosgate Punch P1000X5D Amp that goes here:
and looks like this
-----------------------
Here's the whole (rather amusing) story... if you're up for a good read
I had (and still have) a Rockford Fosgate Punch P1000X5D Amp that sank when I accidentally submerged my 4Runner in brackish water in the Potomac river!!
(That's me about 3 years ago... trying to save my RF amp!!!
The truck was already totalled
, I just didn't know that yet. As for the boat that was sitting on the attached trailer...
the boat floated
, so the boat was OK too !!! )Can anyone give me the part number or at least the specs and pinout info for the subwoofer crossover on this amp?
I need to replace the crossover component soldered to the amp's board.
Alternatively, with the right info, I could remove it entirely, and solder in wires and/or resistors with correct values to simulate the crossover being set at the highest frequency for the sub crossover, and just use it like that. I have an upstream sound processor, so I don't need the amp's xover anyway.
The subwoofer crossover component is a 14 pin potentiometer like the one pictured earlier in this post.
Here's some info on a look-alike part that I found, but IT COULD BE THE WRONG PART... so that's why I'm asking for help.
-----------
Here's the rest of this tale of woe -- if you're up for an amusing read.
After I sank my truck with my amp installed...
I dried them both out
(both the truck and the amp), but I only got the amp working again. R.I.P 4Runner, my trusty old friend. However, the amp bounced back to 100% !!!!
and was working fine for 3+ years !!!!
... but now, 3+ years later, the subwoofer stopped working -- it puts out no sound at all
and after looking at it, I'm convinced that the potentiometer for the subwoofer crossover is bad, so I'm looking for the part number for the component to replace, or info on the ohm readings across the correct pins when the sub xover is turned to its highest frequency setting so that I can just remove the component and solder in wires and fixed value resistors across the correct pins to make the amp think that the sub xover is permanently turned to the highest frequency setting.
I don't know the correct part number, specs or pinouts for the part, and
just because I found a look-alike part (see image earlier in post)
... doesn't mean that it has the correct connections across the 14 different pins, much less the required resistance values --
(This is the pinout for the unknown part I found)
..and blindly experimenting to "see what happens" could be disastrous if want to use this amp for anything other than a boat anchor.
My symptom is this: 3+ years after sinking the amp in brackish water, the subwoofer stopped playing -- no highlevel sub output, regardless of the input or the amp's settings. After some diagnostics, I found slight corrosion on the pins for subwoofer crossover (inside the amp) and I discovered that when I place my finger on the pins on the back of the subwoofer crossover potentiometer, then it starts working again!!!
For whatever reason, only my finger works for this temporary fix. If I touch or press the same pins or anywhere else in the area with the plastic end of a small screwdriver (for example), it has no effect, and the sub output remains silent.
*Maybe reflowing the solder would fix it -- I don't know -- But the problem could also be inside the pot itself. Moreover, I'd rather just replace it the part with a compatible potentiometer, or wire some straight wires and fixed resistor values in its place, so that I can count on having a reliable fix. I don't need the sub crossover anyway. I have a sound processor where I can condition the sound and set the crossover point upstream of the the amp's line level input.
That's the whole backstory of what I'm trying to do
and why. ----------
How did I revive the amp after my U-boat experience?
1) Uninstalled amp, and removed the bottom cover, exposing the boards and all internals.
2) Flushed everything, especially the inside, with lots of fresh water from a garden hose.
3) Let it dry in the sun for a couple hours, after doing what I could to dry it with paper towels... but I didn't leave it too long, because I didn't want rust or corrosion to begin forming...
4) Soaked EVERYTHING by pouring transmission fluid everywhere inside the amp (as in using the whole bottle... a full 1 quart!!!), and let it sit that way in the sun inside a plastic tub for about a week.
5) Tried to get the transmission fluid out.
6) Used lots of blue "shop" paper towels to sop up the mess. Put them inside, packed areas, and changed them as needed. About 1 week.
7) Poured 20W50 motor oil inside the amp, and made sure it got everywhere.
8) Did the best I could to get most of it out, using gravity, blue shop paper towels, and patience over a couple of days.
9) Put it all back together, and even thought it was oily -- especially inside -- it worked!!!!! 100%
-Phil
Last edited:
Thank you. It was a lot to write, but I thought I'd try to explain my problem.
Free gear would be great! I guess it's worth a try
If you have info on the part number for the pot, that would be awesome!
-Philip
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