NOPE you are wrong.
Read the ASTM manuals.
What you are more likely meaning is the specific class of and type of fastner application.
Many many application do in fact place fully threaded fasteners into shear loaded conditions.
The term Machine Screw actually has as its origin the method of manufacture.... from screw machines ( a sort of semi automatic Turret Lathe). Even if as is usual the thread is roll formed.
Also the older among us will almost always refer to anything below .250" dia. as an MS. Most older catalogs refered to .250" dia. as the break point between screw & bolt.
As to SAE engineers and their assumed acumen..... well ...................!
Sorry, us Aerospace types get upity too.
Glossary of Terminology Related to Nuts and Bolts
When I find it I'll post the AN mil-spec. references.
Whether or not a bolt has a shank, at least in some grades, seems to have more to do with the machines rolling the threads than anything else. Go to any hardware store that has a nice selection of bolts and you'll see what I mean. The threaded section is fixed in length above a certain bolt length.
Below are the relavant areas of the aerospace fastener doc that Timpani1d linked to above.
BOLT A bolt is the term used for a threaded fastener, with a head, designed to be used in conjunction with a nut.
SCREW A headed threaded fastener that is designed to be used in conjunction with a pre formed internal thread or alternatively forming its own thread. Historically, it was a threaded fastener with the thread running up to the head of the fastener that has no plain shank. However this definition has largely been superseded to avoid confusion over the difference between a bolt and a screw.
I've spent a number of years in the aerospace, automotive and medical device industries and that's pretty much the way I've looked at it since the beginning for me.
So that pretty much brings this discussion full circle and reminds me that us DIYer's can argue/discuss just about anything and perhaps I need to get a life.....
BOLT A bolt is the term used for a threaded fastener, with a head, designed to be used in conjunction with a nut.
SCREW A headed threaded fastener that is designed to be used in conjunction with a pre formed internal thread or alternatively forming its own thread. Historically, it was a threaded fastener with the thread running up to the head of the fastener that has no plain shank. However this definition has largely been superseded to avoid confusion over the difference between a bolt and a screw.
I've spent a number of years in the aerospace, automotive and medical device industries and that's pretty much the way I've looked at it since the beginning for me.
So that pretty much brings this discussion full circle and reminds me that us DIYer's can argue/discuss just about anything and perhaps I need to get a life.....
and that justs goes towards the proof, if needed, that I'm getting too old for this.
cap screws vs bolts
most US vendors whose catelogs I see prefer "cap screw" for what the ordinary mortal says is a bolt. Dorman, Fastenal, Mcmaster. A fastener with straight machined thread to go in a hole threaded with a tap. Hex head cap screws usually have a partial thread length of 2xdia+something. Socket Head cap screws (trademarked "allen" screws") in the US are usually threaded all the way. Full thread Hex head cap screws are usually more expensive and stocked only regionally, not locally,by the box only. The word bolt referred in the 50's to a "stove bolts" a range of small fasteners that preceded the numbered machine screw series, came in fractional sizes like 1/8-3/16-1/4, and had typically poor metalurgy. (strength) Straight slotted 1/4-20 thread is the only stove bolt to survive, and the hex head cap screw versions have a grade marking. Ford cars up to the 50's had a lot of stove bolts in them, also appliances up until the air gun and sheet metal construction made sheet metal screws more economic. Sheet metal screws cut their own thread. Self tapping machine screws have a built in drill.
most US vendors whose catelogs I see prefer "cap screw" for what the ordinary mortal says is a bolt. Dorman, Fastenal, Mcmaster. A fastener with straight machined thread to go in a hole threaded with a tap. Hex head cap screws usually have a partial thread length of 2xdia+something. Socket Head cap screws (trademarked "allen" screws") in the US are usually threaded all the way. Full thread Hex head cap screws are usually more expensive and stocked only regionally, not locally,by the box only. The word bolt referred in the 50's to a "stove bolts" a range of small fasteners that preceded the numbered machine screw series, came in fractional sizes like 1/8-3/16-1/4, and had typically poor metalurgy. (strength) Straight slotted 1/4-20 thread is the only stove bolt to survive, and the hex head cap screw versions have a grade marking. Ford cars up to the 50's had a lot of stove bolts in them, also appliances up until the air gun and sheet metal construction made sheet metal screws more economic. Sheet metal screws cut their own thread. Self tapping machine screws have a built in drill.
Bolts, screws, set screws... This transformer may have originally come with "studs" with 5/16-24 and 5/16-18 threads. The 5/16-24 end goes into the transformer case and is meant to stay there permenently. The 5/16-18 end alows you to mount iy with a 5/16-18 nut. But I think you anly need something that works for this one time. You could stuff a piece of heavy walled vynl tubing in the holes and use wood screws .
Jim
.Jim
shipping
Some mechanic shops will retap a 5/18-24 hole to 8mm-.8 (or was it .75?) if they have that in stock, or vice versa, and let it slide because the customer will never know. Transformer mounting is not a high stress location for home audio.
Boxes of 1/4-1/2 lb of fasteners are about $6 in the US, free shipping at an auto supply or fastenal. The "it fits it ships" USPS box to Europe is, I think, about $8. Under 1 oz to Europe first class is under a dollar, but I think this will be over 1 oz. Do him a big favor, but if the box of fasteners is not E6 in europe somebody is making a big profit.
Some mechanic shops will retap a 5/18-24 hole to 8mm-.8 (or was it .75?) if they have that in stock, or vice versa, and let it slide because the customer will never know. Transformer mounting is not a high stress location for home audio.
Boxes of 1/4-1/2 lb of fasteners are about $6 in the US, free shipping at an auto supply or fastenal. The "it fits it ships" USPS box to Europe is, I think, about $8. Under 1 oz to Europe first class is under a dollar, but I think this will be over 1 oz. Do him a big favor, but if the box of fasteners is not E6 in europe somebody is making a big profit.
Heck NO.........you made us think a little about stuff so ubiquitous that we stop seeing things for what they are! Or thinking as we attempt conversation.
Besides when was the last time you thought about the physical realities of inclined helical ramps mating!!!!?
Now let's make some tubes glow and music resound!
Bolts, screws, set screws... This transformer may have originally come with "studs" with 5/16-24 and 5/16-18 threads. The 5/16-24 end goes into the transformer case and is meant to stay there permenently. The 5/16-18 end alows you to mount iy with a 5/16-18 nut. But I think you anly need something that works for this one time. You could stuff a piece of heavy walled vynl tubing in the holes and use wood screws
Jim
Haha, not a half bad idea. I'm too perfectionist I guess
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