I collect old General Radio Corp. test equipment, mostly bridges. From around the '30s to the '60s or early '70s, they used a painted finish that had a large texture, sort of like embossed leather. It may be called alligator in the paint trade. Typically, they'd paint a rack panel, then engrave just through the paint, to do the labels and lettering. Early units were black, later ones dark grey, but the same finish. In the '70s they went to a smooth light grey finish.
I've asked people that worked there. I've asked paint people. Nobody can tell me what process is used to get this finish. I don't want wrinkle or crackle or hammertone. How about the brain trust here? Is it an additive? Is it a multiple coat spray trick? Or did they have some kind of textured sheet that they actually pressed into the partially dry paint? How could something that was done for 30 or more years, be so obscure? Anybody?
I've asked people that worked there. I've asked paint people. Nobody can tell me what process is used to get this finish. I don't want wrinkle or crackle or hammertone. How about the brain trust here? Is it an additive? Is it a multiple coat spray trick? Or did they have some kind of textured sheet that they actually pressed into the partially dry paint? How could something that was done for 30 or more years, be so obscure? Anybody?
Sorry for the delay in getting back to this. In this case, I think a picture is called for. Can any of the techniques you have in mind give this kind of finish? If so, can you be more specific on where to get such a thing?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
In the furniture business that is called "crackle lacquer". It is applied over a basecoat layer and then sealed with one or more layers of clearcoat (because the crackle layer is not too durable by itself).
Usually the basecoat and crackle coat are different colors which is why the topcoat is clear. With an opaque topcoat it would be all the same color but you would still get the texture effect I suppose.
Usually the basecoat and crackle coat are different colors which is why the topcoat is clear. With an opaque topcoat it would be all the same color but you would still get the texture effect I suppose.
RDL- you've given me the right phrase to search for, and now I've found all sorts of stuff. Whether this will duplicate the exact finish remains to be seen, but I'll bet I can come close. I did find one comment from a very knowledgeable chemist saying the finishes used in the '30s and '40s may be difficult or impossible to duplicate, as the materials were no longer available due to EPA regs, and the the finishes were baked in gas ovens having a strong carbon monoxide atmosphere that interacted with the finish. Still, you've got me on the right trail- thanks!
I used this type of finish on this project (yes, I wanted that old GenRad look, too). It doesn't show up that well in the picture.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=348750#post348750
I used Mohawk brand black crackle lacquer over their black lacquer. You spray the gloss black over the metal primer and then the second it is dry, you spray on a fairly heavy coat of the crackle finish as evenly as possible. To get the crackle right, you have to bake it immediately at 200 or so degrees F. Much experimentation was needed to get it right. I don't think I'll do it again because of the difficulty in getting consistent results. Later, the local Mohawk rep told me it is easier to get an even finish by using a roller to apply the crackle finish coat instead of a spray gun. I then shot the whole thing with satin or matte pre-catalyzed lacquer to get the right sheen and for added durability.
John
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=348750#post348750
I used Mohawk brand black crackle lacquer over their black lacquer. You spray the gloss black over the metal primer and then the second it is dry, you spray on a fairly heavy coat of the crackle finish as evenly as possible. To get the crackle right, you have to bake it immediately at 200 or so degrees F. Much experimentation was needed to get it right. I don't think I'll do it again because of the difficulty in getting consistent results. Later, the local Mohawk rep told me it is easier to get an even finish by using a roller to apply the crackle finish coat instead of a spray gun. I then shot the whole thing with satin or matte pre-catalyzed lacquer to get the right sheen and for added durability.
John
Oooh, a roller, what a good idea. I'm staining my house right now, using a roller, but never would have thought of it for anything else. A small roller would be perfect for doing a rack panel. I have traditional high pressure spray equipment (a Sharpe), but it's kind of a pita for small projects. I also have an airbrush, but that's a bit small for this sort of thing.
modern acrylics can duplicate this effect. They can also have just as hard a finish, they just need a bit of time to harden.
Tri-art acrylics, and go to their forum, show Connie or Rheni the photos of the finish you are looking for, and they will duplicate it for you, in terms of telling you how to get it done.
If I was at work, I'd be typing it from inside a factory that is consdiered to output the world's highest grade paints -- that are also the extremely capable of doing anything like this. I'd say my answer may not be definitive, but it sure as hell is informed.
Using the arcrylics from Tri-art is the way to go, if you want the intensity of the finish to be so high it reaches right out and stabs you in the eyes. No matter what the color or tonality. No-one on the planet uses the level and quality of pigmentation that Tri-art uses. Their crummiest paint is as cheap as anyone else's cheap paints but the pigment loading is about as high as everyone else's best coatings.
Seriously. This is a laboratory testing level type informed opinion.
Warning: this is not a pre-packaged thing, you'd have to experiment. DIY!
Tri-art acrylics, and go to their forum, show Connie or Rheni the photos of the finish you are looking for, and they will duplicate it for you, in terms of telling you how to get it done.
If I was at work, I'd be typing it from inside a factory that is consdiered to output the world's highest grade paints -- that are also the extremely capable of doing anything like this. I'd say my answer may not be definitive, but it sure as hell is informed.
Using the arcrylics from Tri-art is the way to go, if you want the intensity of the finish to be so high it reaches right out and stabs you in the eyes. No matter what the color or tonality. No-one on the planet uses the level and quality of pigmentation that Tri-art uses. Their crummiest paint is as cheap as anyone else's cheap paints but the pigment loading is about as high as everyone else's best coatings.
Seriously. This is a laboratory testing level type informed opinion.
Warning: this is not a pre-packaged thing, you'd have to experiment. DIY!
I just cleaned a very dirty GenRad unit with that finish.
I'm not sure this is the best way, but...
First I wiped it with ammonia type glass cleaner, to get all water soluble dirt away.
Then I wanted to get the oil soluble dirt off, so I tested an area that was under a knob with some Isopropyl alcohol, but stopped, because that seemed to remove some paint colour. I switched to "Bestine" (rubber cement thinner), and that had no ill effects.
Because of the unit's age, the paint was rather dull (it was more shiny under the knobs), so I used a furniture paste wax, let it dry, and hand buffed it. Looks nice, like in Conrad's photo above.
I do faux finishes for a living, and I believe I can imitate that crackle finish, although not with the ultimate durability as the original....but darn close. I'll do a test this weekend, and post a pic.
(edit...I don't know how to get the embossed (actually "sunken") lettering though...hmmmm...)
=RR=
I'm not sure this is the best way, but...
First I wiped it with ammonia type glass cleaner, to get all water soluble dirt away.
Then I wanted to get the oil soluble dirt off, so I tested an area that was under a knob with some Isopropyl alcohol, but stopped, because that seemed to remove some paint colour. I switched to "Bestine" (rubber cement thinner), and that had no ill effects.
Because of the unit's age, the paint was rather dull (it was more shiny under the knobs), so I used a furniture paste wax, let it dry, and hand buffed it. Looks nice, like in Conrad's photo above.
I do faux finishes for a living, and I believe I can imitate that crackle finish, although not with the ultimate durability as the original....but darn close. I'll do a test this weekend, and post a pic.
(edit...I don't know how to get the embossed (actually "sunken") lettering though...hmmmm...)
=RR=
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