My brothers system has a pair of audio nirvana 6.5" speakers and he wants a sub added. What is a good sub that will cross up a little higher than most that would be a good match for it? We do not want that car stereo booming crap but rather a seamless blend. I am thinking about adding a mini dsp-hd and running the sub off a low-ish power plate amp. So I don't need a plate amp with cross over built in. I would welcome input from those with a similar situation ( 6.5" full range drivers)
Thanks
Jeff
Thanks
Jeff
Are you asking the size of the boxes of his existing speakers? I made them but damn that was awhile ago. They are a little on the smaller side. Vented.
Can you really get an idea how they sound from the box size? I know it greatly affect the sound but I wouldn't know how speaker X sounded in a smallish cabinet compared to speaker X in a largish cabinet. And I am asking, no sarcasm intended..
Can you really get an idea how they sound from the box size? I know it greatly affect the sound but I wouldn't know how speaker X sounded in a smallish cabinet compared to speaker X in a largish cabinet. And I am asking, no sarcasm intended..
Not helpful to add bass unless the treble is strong or can be enhanced.
What kind of music?
First step is to establish capabilities of current system. If it will play well down to maybe 80 Hz, you can use a XO at 130 Hz and design and locate the sub(s) with less constraint.
You are right to avoid boom and any system today needs DSP to avoid being deemed a dinosaur. But other than special cases, matching or blending are "alternative facts".
B.
What kind of music?
First step is to establish capabilities of current system. If it will play well down to maybe 80 Hz, you can use a XO at 130 Hz and design and locate the sub(s) with less constraint.
You are right to avoid boom and any system today needs DSP to avoid being deemed a dinosaur. But other than special cases, matching or blending are "alternative facts".
B.
Last edited:
This should be on thge full range forum.
I've struggled with the issue as integration is the key.
80-200hz crossover point falls in drums (and harmonic) and bass guitar stuff.
I find 180 or so keeps voice apart from woofer.
I recommend a woofer box.
I've been thinking a double 12" with a single inductor, maybe 3db down at the pole of 200hz.
That helps for baffle step too, and floor bounce when having a full range in a box off the floor.
Matching sensitivities help, but i like boosted lows and highs (loudness button) bevause i usually listen 80db or less.
Something else to watch for is the woofers climbing impedance that will sort of ignore a 6db roll off.
Dsp opens many doorways.
You could make the 6" and the woof roll off at 6db.
That will help trainsient snap, if you are into that stuff, and less distortion on the full range driver.
I'm a dinosaur, no dsp.
I've struggled with the issue as integration is the key.
80-200hz crossover point falls in drums (and harmonic) and bass guitar stuff.
I find 180 or so keeps voice apart from woofer.
I recommend a woofer box.
I've been thinking a double 12" with a single inductor, maybe 3db down at the pole of 200hz.
That helps for baffle step too, and floor bounce when having a full range in a box off the floor.
Matching sensitivities help, but i like boosted lows and highs (loudness button) bevause i usually listen 80db or less.
Something else to watch for is the woofers climbing impedance that will sort of ignore a 6db roll off.
Dsp opens many doorways.
You could make the 6" and the woof roll off at 6db.
That will help trainsient snap, if you are into that stuff, and less distortion on the full range driver.
I'm a dinosaur, no dsp.
Last edited:
Sub or woof ?
$140, eminence delta pro 12a, 95db spl, 2.5ft3 tune 50hz, f3 maybe 55........
I've been contemplating a bass helper 2 in 5ft3 tuned to 50hz, but a3gin, integration is the key.
I'm shooting from the hip on the box size and tuning.........
It has a nice non peaky respons.
I sit 14' away so i need a pair of 12" for the bass to get back to where i sit.
$140, eminence delta pro 12a, 95db spl, 2.5ft3 tune 50hz, f3 maybe 55........
I've been contemplating a bass helper 2 in 5ft3 tuned to 50hz, but a3gin, integration is the key.
I'm shooting from the hip on the box size and tuning.........
It has a nice non peaky respons.
I sit 14' away so i need a pair of 12" for the bass to get back to where i sit.
Last edited:
Yes.
Understood, a common, essential newbie Q.
Yes, especially since this driver isn't designed for a typical reflex/vented cab alignment due to its high Qts' [relatively weak motor]. This in turn increases the cab size [Vb], lowers its tuning [Fb].
In my haste, forgot to ask if tube driven and if so, its output impedance [Rs] since it further increases Qts', etc.:
Qts': Qts + any added series resistance [Rs]: Calculate new Qts with Series Resistor
[Rs] = 0.5 ohm minimum for wiring, so may be higher if a super small gauge is used as a series resistor plus any added resistance from an XO/whatever.
As for sonics; based on the specs, up to a ~0.403 Qts' where [Vb] = [Vas], [Fb] = [Fs], i.e. ideal max flat alignment [critically damped] where [F3] = [Fb], then all alignments < this is considered to be increasingly over-damped with increasing [Fb] and vice versa, so this driver with its published 0.665 Qts is already under-damped, so can only get worse ['ringing'] with the added [Rs], making the [Vb] > [Vas], tuned much lower [Fb] to compensate with the downside of [much] reduced power handling.
In short, this driver's Qts' in an acoustically too small a cab tuned too high can sound mid-bass heavy with no real bass without heavy distortion to with little/none of either without distortion in too large a cab tuned too low.
Sealed, the cab size becomes theoretically infinite [usually 10x [Vas] is sufficient] once cab tuning [Fc] = Qts', so even with minimal wiring [Rs] 0.5 ohm it ideally will be a relatively large cab.
Specs: https://www.commonsenseaudio.com/an6.5alnicospecs.jpg
Nah, there's no need to do that. If the sub's too quiet, turn it up. Achieving mid-90s@1w in the subwoofer band requires a large cabinet.
I'd go for a couple of 8 or 10" drivers each in their own sealed boxes, located to achieve optimal LF response at the listening position.
Chris
If you use active crossovers (like a dsp) and an own amp you don't need to match spl, just make sure the sub goes loud enough.
I use a 10" Scanspeak 26W/8534G00 in a 77L sealed cabinet with my Mark Audio Alpair 10.3M FR drivers (they are 6" formally, in reality 5.25" cones) and that gets to F6 (what matters for sealed) of 31Hz. If you need lower or louder, a 12" SB34NRX75-6 is what i would use, it fits the same 77L cabinet but goes a lot louder and about 5Hz lower (F6).
And use at least 2 woofers, certainly if you crossover them above 85Hz. The trick with the many smaller subs only works with a very low crossover (<85Hz). To low for that kind of fullrange, i guess you best crossover in the 150-300Hz region with those FR drivers (high qts/low BL and xmax) as they tend not to go low on a certain volume.
I use a 10" Scanspeak 26W/8534G00 in a 77L sealed cabinet with my Mark Audio Alpair 10.3M FR drivers (they are 6" formally, in reality 5.25" cones) and that gets to F6 (what matters for sealed) of 31Hz. If you need lower or louder, a 12" SB34NRX75-6 is what i would use, it fits the same 77L cabinet but goes a lot louder and about 5Hz lower (F6).
And use at least 2 woofers, certainly if you crossover them above 85Hz. The trick with the many smaller subs only works with a very low crossover (<85Hz). To low for that kind of fullrange, i guess you best crossover in the 150-300Hz region with those FR drivers (high qts/low BL and xmax) as they tend not to go low on a certain volume.
Last edited:
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.