I've been mulling over the idea of a round subwoofer- mostly for looks. I was starting to research gluing rings of MDF to make the shell, then perhaps a bunch of bondo and sanding.
Then I thought, "Why not make this easier? Somebody mentioned using a mailbox for a gainclone enclosure the other day, what can I do to mimic that?"
So then I noticed that if you take an Adire Shiva 12" driver and mount it in a standard 1/2 barrel beer keg, you could produce a sealed subwoofer with a Q of 0.75 and F3 of 40ish hz. Furthermore, if you're willing to do an isobaric enclosure you could tune the vent to 25 hz. (according to winISD)
I'd never heard of a speaker in a keg before, let alone a subwoofer. All I was able to find on the subject was this mention of a Lowther in a beer keg. That reminds me- isn't it supposed to be a horrible thing to mount a driver at the end of a cylinder?
Keg Facts:
Kegs have an internal volume of 2 cubic feet, are good for at least 20 psi internal pressure, and come with built-in handles. An empty keg weighs about 30 pounds. I'm not sure exactly how you'd go about cutting the driver hole... that seems like it would be the worst part.
Then I thought, "Why not make this easier? Somebody mentioned using a mailbox for a gainclone enclosure the other day, what can I do to mimic that?"
So then I noticed that if you take an Adire Shiva 12" driver and mount it in a standard 1/2 barrel beer keg, you could produce a sealed subwoofer with a Q of 0.75 and F3 of 40ish hz. Furthermore, if you're willing to do an isobaric enclosure you could tune the vent to 25 hz. (according to winISD)
I'd never heard of a speaker in a keg before, let alone a subwoofer. All I was able to find on the subject was this mention of a Lowther in a beer keg. That reminds me- isn't it supposed to be a horrible thing to mount a driver at the end of a cylinder?
Keg Facts:
Kegs have an internal volume of 2 cubic feet, are good for at least 20 psi internal pressure, and come with built-in handles. An empty keg weighs about 30 pounds. I'm not sure exactly how you'd go about cutting the driver hole... that seems like it would be the worst part.
It will work just fine and the cylindrical aspect will give a very high strength structure. Resonance is not a problem as the two foot or so length is too short to be excited by long wavelengths. But- those kegs are stainless steel, very difficult to work with. You'd porobably have to have a welding shop cut one end off that you could then attach a wood plate to for a baffle. Use sheetmetal screws or nuts and bolts to attach it, fill the gaps with bondo.
I think it will work well but as metal is a hard, it may have a resonance, line the innner keg with butimus or polyfoam, Your could use liquid roofing felt also, anything to get ride of that ringing sound they make when you clang 2 of them together,
Plus its weather proof, great for outside BBQs,LOL, good lucky.
Plus its weather proof, great for outside BBQs,LOL, good lucky.
thanks for the advice, all!
I'm living in New York State for the next month or so; so the state deposit of $75 is a prohibitive (too bad, because someone at the school shop could probably help).
I'll try to find a shop when I get back to Illinois, where deposit is more like $10. Depending on the legal status of a "deposit", maybe a shop could sell these to college kids
I'm living in New York State for the next month or so; so the state deposit of $75 is a prohibitive (too bad, because someone at the school shop could probably help).
I'll try to find a shop when I get back to Illinois, where deposit is more like $10. Depending on the legal status of a "deposit", maybe a shop could sell these to college kids
You've heard of the 'sonotube sub', right? Its probably the most popular do-it-yourself sub out there. Take a concrete forming tube (sometimes called a sonotube) cap off the ends with MDF, mount a driver and a port in the ends and VOILA! Instant subwoofer!
But if you really want to go for the keg, try www.kegs.com for keg deals.
But if you really want to go for the keg, try www.kegs.com for keg deals.
A keg might not look that nice depending on your tastes. Actually personally I think it would look really neat, especially if you got one of those kegs that has a thich coat of smooth black rubber (seen them?). The rubber might also help with sound damping. I would think a keg would vibrate a lot, I hope I'm wrong.
jjdche said:
Yeah.. i almost smacked myself on the head when you reminded me of that, but then I remembered that i wanted something that would look really 'unique'. Still, whenever I finally go for it, I'll make sure to try sonotube first just to make sure I like the sound of that driver with that volume sealed. That would be easier than finding a shop to cut the hole.
thanks!
Jimmy154 said:
I think you're right about the rubber. Believe I think that Miller Highlife might come in totally plastic kegs. I got this impression from a chipped handle I saw on one; it looked plastic all the way through. A regular steel keg might benefit from something like dynamatt.
I've spent the last 3 years living in a fraternity house; I don't think I'll mind the aesthetic of a keg or two in my first apartment
A good coat of paint (maybe some carpet or cloth) and you might not even notice it's a keg anymore!
Thanks for the thoughts- you can bet that if I get around to it I'll post pictures.
It is horrible to mount a driver in a cylinder end,
but wonderful to mount it in a sphere.
A keg seems like in between, so no doubt OK
I'm very surprised more people haven't done this-
It's a really good idea-
The biggest problem with sub boxes is flexing of the walls-It ain't gonna happen with that keg!!!!
but wonderful to mount it in a sphere.
A keg seems like in between, so no doubt OK
I'm very surprised more people haven't done this-
It's a really good idea-
The biggest problem with sub boxes is flexing of the walls-It ain't gonna happen with that keg!!!!
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