Camouflaged as simple incivility, it actually looks more like you are evading defending what you put into your post #19.
Because of the aberrant desire by Adire to sell a driver that will heat up enough to fry eggs, the mass is 4X what it could be, there's monumental cone travel (and hence with a VC as long as your arm), the efficiency/sensitivity are blah, and contrary to what you were trying to convince us of in your post #19, the BL isn't esp. noteworthy in this driver - squared or not.
So until you reply, I'll just stick with what I said in post #15: unless you have a dance club, it makes no sense to take this path of design with a pound and quarter cone weight
B.
PS - dunno how you tried to upload "the equation", but it's gone; nice if you would fix it
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I don't camouflage anything, it just doesn't matter to me, really. I will live on just fine if you have a completely different train of thought with regards to this. 
So we just agree to disagree. I will not try to further convince you of how I justify my train of thought, I just brought up points that I feel are important, if you don't feel they are important, hey no big deal. Carry on.
So we just agree to disagree. I will not try to further convince you of how I justify my train of thought, I just brought up points that I feel are important, if you don't feel they are important, hey no big deal. Carry on. I see you are spouting your low Mms BS again there, Ben. For a direct radiator, cone mass has absolutely nothing to do with the efficiency of a driver's cone to convert movement into sound pressure. I'm not talking about electrical efficiency here, I'm talking about the conversion of motion into SPL by pushing on the air load. It matters not if the cone weighs 1g or 1kg, if the same Sd is moved by the same Xmax the same SPL will result.
Then there is the related BS about "fast bass", etc. This is really about how the cone can be moved by the motor. As long as light and heavy cones are matched to a motor and suspension that results in the same Fs, Qes, and Qms you will get the EXACT SAME transient response, whether you call it "fast" or "slow" is up to you, but it will be the same.
This is exactly what Oskar was saying HERE.
I don't believe that he was, later, being incivil when he said that you could just look it up. For someone who is so learned about speakers, maybe he thought you would have the relevant info at your fingertips, or in memory. Did you consider doing a Google search? Try "Thiele Small Parameters" to get links to a variety of useful references. You might find this page helpful:
Thiele/Small parameters - Wikipedia
Thanks CharlieLaub. You give 'em an inch and they want a mile as if you owe it to them! I do enough babysitting elsewhere, don't need to do it here.
Anyways, these kind of speakers aren't for everybody obviously. I know I can and will have use for them later on.
So the thread moved on to the question whether the Aidire Egg Fryer sub is a sensible path to sound quality, dance clubs excepted. I offered some intuitive reasons why a King Kong Kone isn't clever engineering in post #15.Thanks CharlieLaub. You give 'em an inch and they want a mile as if you owe it to them! I do enough babysitting elsewhere, don't need to do it here.
Anyways, these kind of speakers aren't for everybody obviously. I know I can and will have use for them later on.
OscarS replied with an Archimedes argument: "If I had a lever long enough I could move the earth"* or in the case of Adire Audiio, "If I had a big enough magnet, I could whomp that monstrous cone back and forth fast as I care to." OscarS further aluded to the Standard Model to prove - if only in theory - that given a big enough magnet.... and so on. With CharlieLaub coming to poor OscarS's defence later on, sadly in the same gratuitously nasty tone of voice.
Far be it from me to dispute Archimedes in the abstract, but I did think somebody ought to actually have a peek at the parameters Adire Audio claims for the driver. See my post #22.
I thought my assessment of Adire's actual driver parameters showed that, no, OscarS's magnet was, gosh, just not big enough or at least, nothing out of the ordinary for such a King Kong Kone.
Now if OscarS or CharlieLaub wish to climb down from their abstract and litigious perch and contest the facts of this driver, all readers and yours truly as well, will be better informed for that.
B.
* "Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world"
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Your response is dripping with your pathetic confirmation bias, as usual. And as usual it is a big fail. Let us explore why this is... reader, please read on:
Above, you seem to realize with poetic flair that, yes, both OscarS and I are refuting your baseless claims. Congratulations! How lucid of you.
Let's see, the only thing that you have cited from the "parameters Adire Audio claims for the driver" (your words) are that is has "3000 watt flame-proof construction" and "a mass of 570 grams". This hardly seems to be a comprehensive evaluation, eh? Maybe you should investigate a bit further... you will find that this is just a typical home-audio subwoofer with lots of excursion.
Maybe that is too much for you to bear?
I think dance clubs are an example of what these kind drivers aren't suited for . I also do think these drivers have their merit. And central to that thought is spl equals sd times excursion. Sure enough their electrical efficiency is lower, but given enough power they sure can move a lot of air and therefore lots of subbass . The lower efficiency is just a trade of for a small enclosure which is advantageous for home use. I don't think it's more complicated than that.
. I also do think these drivers have their merit. And central to that thought is spl equals sd times excursion. Sure enough their electrical efficiency is lower, but given enough power they sure can move a lot of air and therefore lots of subbass . The lower efficiency is just a trade of for a small enclosure which is advantageous for home use. I don't think it's more complicated than that.Nope, YOU tried to move the thread to that question. And then want people to educate you on their dime. Want to be better informed? Start buying books, reading credible published "white papers" by the experts, or a general Google search should net you the explanation you seem that "must be defended". You said yourself this makes no sense, in your post #15. So why are you even here? Just instigation is all I see. Not my fault you can't/don't want to inform yourself (which we really know you don't because you just want to keep refuting what Charlie Laub and I say, all just because "you don't like this speaker"). You can't fight against what we don't post, which is why you keep egg'ing us to post something to "inform you". Good luck with your endeavors, really. This is simply not a good path for you which we all know. Why waste your own time?
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I wouldn’t use this sub in a club, unless you were using a lot of them or the club was small. This looks like a good home and car subwoofer.
For a club I’d use either a TP or large direct radiator. These smaller subs won’t really be a good fit when you typically have much higher efficient mains.
For a club I’d use either a TP or large direct radiator. These smaller subs won’t really be a good fit when you typically have much higher efficient mains.
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