Those are not ordinary fender washers they supply with the PR. They are about 3/16" thick, and 2 3/8" diameter. As in the graphic- those weighed a range of 65-67g per disc, so they are not light either. 3x 1.5" zinc fender washers from the average hardware store at 1/16" thickness, and then the lock-wingnut. You can use thread locker and a lock washer instead if you so choose, but the wingnut holds well in my case.
I did not weigh the entire mass myself, as it was measured to hit my tuning and not the mass required. I would strongly suggest you measure the tuning if at all possible. There is bound to be unit to unit variation in actual Mms of the PR itself without mass attached.
Later,
Wolf
I did not weigh the entire mass myself, as it was measured to hit my tuning and not the mass required. I would strongly suggest you measure the tuning if at all possible. There is bound to be unit to unit variation in actual Mms of the PR itself without mass attached.
Later,
Wolf
Yeah! I finished it a few weeks ago. I have the gain all the way down and it still rumbles pretty good. My wife looked at me in disgust when I turned the gain up. Plus it started jumping around on the spikes and left holes in my floor. The thing really hammers if you turn it up. I love it so far. Once the Purple Heart ages a little bit, it’ll darken and match my other speakers.
There is soooo much Mms, and the oscillation vertically will obviously make it jump around. PRs really should operate horizontally to prevent sag, but the suspension setup on the Overdrive is pretty stiff.
Have you tried it on it's side as intended? It won't jump around as badly that way.
Later, and thanks for the photos!
Wolf
Have you tried it on it's side as intended? It won't jump around as badly that way.
Later, and thanks for the photos!
Wolf
Hey Wolf,
I started having problems with my SD500-6. After a few months, it seems that it started buzzing, even with no signal cable plugged in. It sounds like a typical 60Hz buzz coming from the power supply in the amp or something. My question is, do you think that the magnetic field of the driver magnet is having an adverse affect on the amp, being so close to it?
With the amp removed but plugged in, the buzz is barely audible. Once I reinstall it into the enclosure, the enclosure seems to amplify it enough to audible levels.
I started having problems with my SD500-6. After a few months, it seems that it started buzzing, even with no signal cable plugged in. It sounds like a typical 60Hz buzz coming from the power supply in the amp or something. My question is, do you think that the magnetic field of the driver magnet is having an adverse affect on the amp, being so close to it?
With the amp removed but plugged in, the buzz is barely audible. Once I reinstall it into the enclosure, the enclosure seems to amplify it enough to audible levels.
Hi Wolf, not sure if your still using this sub but I am very tempted to build it, I just dont know what this all means.
"and then flipped the phase knob to 180 as something just seemed off. Initiate beat lockdown! All of a sudden it roared to life in my setup. I don't know for sure, but I might have hooked up the amp in reverse to have caused this, or it was just needed to get the summation right. With a 4th order rolloff on the Fenrir on the stands, and the likely 4th order acoustic plus 4th order active rolloff on the sub yielding an 8th order total rolloff, it's hard to say without tearing it back open"
I have just started using REW and I have purchased a UMIK-1 so could you please explain how this measurement is done and where the mass is attached please on the PR.
-If making a bandpass sub of this type, or even just a PR box, I highly recommend measuring the tuning with an impedance sweep to verify it is as it should be. Being the nature of the bandpass beast, having it off by 5Hz can really impact the extreme rolloffs of the design
Apologies for asking these questions, I am sure some will say I should not go down this route with my lack of understanding what are probably basic principles.
If I go this rout I would like to use one of my XTZ sub amp-1's from a previous setup and I would like to know if they would be suitable, here is a link to the manual, https://www.manualslib.com/manual/832427/Xtz-Sub-Amp-1.html?page=11#manual
I am guessing the eq is a little hot at +7db at 25Hz so I would like to use the EQ built into my Denon which uses audyssey xt32.
Many thanks
Alan
"and then flipped the phase knob to 180 as something just seemed off. Initiate beat lockdown! All of a sudden it roared to life in my setup. I don't know for sure, but I might have hooked up the amp in reverse to have caused this, or it was just needed to get the summation right. With a 4th order rolloff on the Fenrir on the stands, and the likely 4th order acoustic plus 4th order active rolloff on the sub yielding an 8th order total rolloff, it's hard to say without tearing it back open"
I have just started using REW and I have purchased a UMIK-1 so could you please explain how this measurement is done and where the mass is attached please on the PR.
-If making a bandpass sub of this type, or even just a PR box, I highly recommend measuring the tuning with an impedance sweep to verify it is as it should be. Being the nature of the bandpass beast, having it off by 5Hz can really impact the extreme rolloffs of the design
Apologies for asking these questions, I am sure some will say I should not go down this route with my lack of understanding what are probably basic principles.
If I go this rout I would like to use one of my XTZ sub amp-1's from a previous setup and I would like to know if they would be suitable, here is a link to the manual, https://www.manualslib.com/manual/832427/Xtz-Sub-Amp-1.html?page=11#manual
I am guessing the eq is a little hot at +7db at 25Hz so I would like to use the EQ built into my Denon which uses audyssey xt32.
Many thanks
Alan
Yep, I still use it.
The polarity of the subwoofer can be flipped or adjusted via the phase switch or knob to aid in better summation between stand mount speaker and subwoofer responses. Being that the subwoofer has a very steep acoustic rolloff via the addition of the acoustic and active slopes, this is something I did not measure for best summation. Basically, I tried one way with a hole in the response and the opposite was better.
Doing an RTA measurement of your setup with REW from your listening position will show which is better.
The mass is attached to the rear of the PR in most cases, and in the PR I used. CSS has front-mounted masses for ease of use without PR removal. The impedance measurement of the system will show a dip at PR tuning Fb frequency for verification. DATS, Limp, WT2, WT3, Clio, etc can all do this.
You can leave the EQ switches off and use the Denon auto-EQ if you like, but that is pretty close to the setting the Yung has. Being the XTZ is not as powerful, the XTZ amp may clip more readily and need a lower gain setting initially to find out if it can handle the stress where you like the output level. In my case, the Yung is rarely set above 12:30 on the gain knob.
Hope this answers your questions.
The polarity of the subwoofer can be flipped or adjusted via the phase switch or knob to aid in better summation between stand mount speaker and subwoofer responses. Being that the subwoofer has a very steep acoustic rolloff via the addition of the acoustic and active slopes, this is something I did not measure for best summation. Basically, I tried one way with a hole in the response and the opposite was better.
Doing an RTA measurement of your setup with REW from your listening position will show which is better.
The mass is attached to the rear of the PR in most cases, and in the PR I used. CSS has front-mounted masses for ease of use without PR removal. The impedance measurement of the system will show a dip at PR tuning Fb frequency for verification. DATS, Limp, WT2, WT3, Clio, etc can all do this.
You can leave the EQ switches off and use the Denon auto-EQ if you like, but that is pretty close to the setting the Yung has. Being the XTZ is not as powerful, the XTZ amp may clip more readily and need a lower gain setting initially to find out if it can handle the stress where you like the output level. In my case, the Yung is rarely set above 12:30 on the gain knob.
Hope this answers your questions.
Brilliant, thanks Wolf, I think it says a lot that your still using it, the latest version of Audyssey allows for alteration of the default curve amongst other very useful features so there's some manual manipulation allowed now which we never had before. I will use the XTZ amp and watch out for the clipping, I also need to look at the software you mentioned and do a lot more investigation into "PR tuning Fb frequency".
Thanks again, I may be back. LOL
For anyone living in the UK I just finished paying the import fees for the parts for this. I got the drivers from Soundimports due to them been closer and thinking its going to be faster, probably paid about £5 more but they dont sell the amp so thats coming from PartsExpress. £273 for the amp plus £303 for the drivers, import duties where £54 and £60 so total £690, Im going to buy a full sheet of 25mm MDF which is £55 from B&Q. Be interested to know which model of SVS sub you compared it to Wolf, just for a price comparison over here. Looking forward to building this next month, thanks for sharing Wolf.
dude, wow. you make beautiful speakers!! 💚Yeah! I finished it a few weeks ago. I have the gain all the way down and it still rumbles pretty good. My wife looked at me in disgust when I turned the gain up. Plus it started jumping around on the spikes and left holes in my floor. The thing really hammers if you turn it up. I love it so far. Once the Purple Heart ages a little bit, it’ll darken and match my other speakers.
i have a um15 (these volcanic names are awesome!!)🔥💥🔥 damn that PR is $$ though…
