This is not for a car, it is for my studio and there will be 2 of them.
Here are my current questions
1. In the future (like the next year or so) I think I will get acoustic foams and bass traps for the room. If I get some reverb software or a cheap reverb machine could I turn it on and off to switch between flat sound and good music listening sound?? I also plan on upgrading to Yamaha HS8 and putting the JBLs in the back for surround sound. Not going to ask how to set that up now because it won't be for a while but I will probably turn the JBLs off when monitoring. The nice surround sound might make up for the flat response if reverb doesn't work...
2. I still am not confident exactly how to wire the 2 woofers to the terminal. I can not find a single video or article that helps!! I believe wiring them in parallel would be box terminal positive to woofer 1 positive to woofer 2 positive, same for negative... I'm not sure exactly what wire to buy because this requires the wires to split up!
I also saw in a video somebody plugging wires into the woofer terminal with no soldering, with some research these seem to be female terminal spade lugs. The box terminals I'm buying seems they can connect like this along with the woofers. I would prefer taking the route with no soldering because my dad claims it is very difficult and plugging those "spade lugs" into the woofer seems very simple and fast. When I look for spade lugs on amazon they are all little cheap plastic things. How do I connect those to the 16 gauge speaker wire?? (Or should I use 14 gauge?)
If going with spade lugs makes wiring in parallel harder, could I install 2 box terminals? The amp (which I chose a better one, it turns out I actually need 150 watts per sub) has 4 positive connections and 4 negative so that means I can run 4 sets of wire to it (one per woofer) this might make things simpler...?
Yes, you stay most flexible if you connect the two woofers in each cabiner independently to connectors in the back. The are terminals with four posts for this where you can easily connect positive-to-positive and negative-to-negative if you want the two woofers electrically connected in paralell.
Bass traps are big and only good for one thing, so I'd only put them into a room that I owned myself, and that I knew I was going to be using for years.
Rather than spend $X on bass traps for your weights room + studio, I'd suggest getting yet another sub and/or stuff (wall punching bag, furniture) that eats reflections / treats the room, while having other functions.
More subs = more even bass = less need for bass traps.
A big armchair in a corner = useful as a chair AND acts as a bass trap.
A bookshelf = storage space AND acts as a diffusor / absorber (depending on what's in it).
Putting a box full of clothes / camping gear / whatever on top of that bookshelf = extra storage AND acts as a bass trap.
...and so on.
I don't see the difference between 'flat' and 'good'. You can add reverb in software. A jillion cheap machines in the signal chain is not good.
Try a google image search on "wiring subwoofer"
I meant switching between flat sound for production and good sound meaning with perfect room reverb created by a software I'd be willing to put some money in.
Regarding the bass traps and other foams, I don't want to seem like I'm buying stuff for looks but I really prefer having proper bass traps, (I recently moved the whole setup in the middle of the room for a better monitoring point and it is a bit more cramped now) and I can't move those things you were naming into the room for many reasons... I found a site that has great prices for high quality foam and for the whole room with good quality and thickness for is only $200. It will make the room I have worked hard to keep neat, well decorated, and good looking feel even more like a studio.
About the wiring, please refer to what I was asking at the top of this page. I have spent a long time trying to find direct tutorials about wiring that apply to my build but they don't help. If you could please answer those questions I can be confident about how to build it and then buy the wood hopefully this week.
If you foam the whole room, that will eat the highs and do nothing to the lows.
I'm no expert, but I've been privy to the construction of one studio (I knew the builder; he showed me around, explained the rationale, & gave me the reference books he used). The major treatment he used was wide, wall-mounted boxes of varying depths. The face layer of each box was a perforated panel, with insulation in the cavity behind it. The perforated face reflects some HF, meaning these these boxes absorb more evenly than a simple foam lining.
The deeper you make such a box, the lower the frequency it will absorb to. If the face is loosely mounted, that can help with LF too.
IMO, you should start with a couple of cheap, subtle things (like applying foam to the underside of your desk) that go a surprisingly long way.
Then, if you want to go further with room treatment, start by getting a couple of reference books from a library.
An Image search led me (first pic I clicked) to this comprehensive page:
Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams | Sonic Electronix
If that doesn't help, click the 2nd image that looks good. The info is out there.
Some of them you can (maybe not the armchair): just mount them higher up / out of the way, as pictured.
Attachments
Ok about the foams, I appreciate the suggestions but it isn't happening for at least a little while anyway. I value the look of a studio but even if I didn't, I must remind you I am 14 and cannot make major modifications to the room like that.(screwing and mounting things) The room itself doesn't have any space for more shelves anyway. There are bottom shelves on either side that are decorated but all filled. I don't think it a good idea to talk about that anyway, you may be different from me but I will gladly spend $200 on foams that will do the job better, look great, and avoid ruining the look of the room in other ways... You mentioned laying the foams on the bottom of the desk, I have many cables under there and I have never heard of the idea, something to look into and might be possible
enough of that...
Perhaps I wasn't making my questions clear at first and I apologize,
I was really asking about the specifics of connecting them and I had questions about the spade lugs and all... The diagrams are easy to get and I understand that, maybe if you look over my specific questions you would understand a bit better, I'm asking about the specific wires and about physically plugging them in and all. I could not find any info on this. Please refer to question 2 on post #41
How would you foam all the walls then?
Some cafes and bars do it to the undersides of their tables. I appreciate the difference it makes.
You have a soldering iron, so use it
How would you foam all the walls then?
Some cafes and bars do it to the undersides of their tables. I appreciate the difference it makes.
You have a soldering iron, so use it
I'n not sure you thoroughly read through my questions, I don't want to seem vexatious, I will gladly wait some time if you cannot provide full answers right now...
btw I was saying that drilling shelves into the wall is different than putting foams on the wall that leave little or no mark. There are countless number of reasons why putting a shelf on the walls here cannot happen. These can apply for some of the other things you mentioned
- looks awful(hard to understand maybe from your point but there are even more countless factors into this)
-already shelves in the room
-room was designed and built how it was designed
- shelves are expensive(any shelves that my parents would approve of drilling into a wall)
- no space really unless it would just be a joke of a placement.
-just unconventional if you would understand the whole situation...
I don't want to seem stubborn and full of rejection but it is hard to paint a picture for you, If I say I can't do something there are many reasons behind it, I am trying to take in as much as what is possible to do.
anyways have a good night
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.