The goal is to make a solid full range system and I can't figure out which way to design it. It gonna be for a multipurpose setting: monitoring film/music, and then enjoying finished mixes, among other common uses. This brings me to two general ideas, either finding a very high efficiency sub and designing it into the main enclosures themselves, or nixing them in the main enclosures and building two matching active subs. I'm leaning towards the full passive units, but there's a fair bit of pros and cons to each set. So far I'm looking at it this way.
FR Passive will...
-Use considerably less electricity
-Have two less wire (the PSU cables)
-All drivers will be at/near head level
-Without using an LFE channel, I will have lower register instruments in the proper channels (can be separated into either left or right, instead of having a duplicated mono channel into two active subs).
-The point source will seem much smaller.
-Less heat generated from additional amps.
Active subs will...
-Be easier to design
-Both enclosures will take up considerably less spacial volume.
-Easier to control.
Can anyone add to either section or make some suggestion, helping me to come to a conclusion? Thanks guys!
FR Passive will...
-Use considerably less electricity
-Have two less wire (the PSU cables)
-All drivers will be at/near head level
-Without using an LFE channel, I will have lower register instruments in the proper channels (can be separated into either left or right, instead of having a duplicated mono channel into two active subs).
-The point source will seem much smaller.
-Less heat generated from additional amps.
Active subs will...
-Be easier to design
-Both enclosures will take up considerably less spacial volume.
-Easier to control.
Can anyone add to either section or make some suggestion, helping me to come to a conclusion? Thanks guys!
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Go Active
An active subwoofer design will deliver superior results for at least four reasons that come to mind beyond those already mentioned:
1) For optimal results, you will need multiple units placed at key room locations; so the size of the collective foot becomes even more important.
2) An Active implementation will permit use of servo control of the drivers for a much 'cleaner' performance.
3) Below say about 100 Hz., you can not locate the source of the signal, but when moving from place to place in the listening space, you will be able to tell where the room nodes are. The "head level" and instrument bifurcation issues you raise are an irrelevant consideration for subwoofer placement active or otherwise.
4) The incremental cost of electricity to run the less efficient system will be swamped-out by the time value of the additional capital expenditure required to deliver a system of higher electrical efficiency. Use this savings for solar panels instead if you want to "green" the whole domicile as well.
Regards,
WHG
An active subwoofer design will deliver superior results for at least four reasons that come to mind beyond those already mentioned:
1) For optimal results, you will need multiple units placed at key room locations; so the size of the collective foot becomes even more important.
2) An Active implementation will permit use of servo control of the drivers for a much 'cleaner' performance.
3) Below say about 100 Hz., you can not locate the source of the signal, but when moving from place to place in the listening space, you will be able to tell where the room nodes are. The "head level" and instrument bifurcation issues you raise are an irrelevant consideration for subwoofer placement active or otherwise.
4) The incremental cost of electricity to run the less efficient system will be swamped-out by the time value of the additional capital expenditure required to deliver a system of higher electrical efficiency. Use this savings for solar panels instead if you want to "green" the whole domicile as well.
Regards,
WHG
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The cost doesn't matter much, as much as fit or BTU creation. Being down in south Florida, having a ton of gear, and even a lights for the same reason, the numbers tend to add up quicker than you'd think. Next thing you know its a unpleasant 82 with the a/c set on its max. I forgot about that part though, thanks, I'll need to add it into the post. Also, I forgot about servo subs. Thanks for that too.
4) Revisited
If you want high efficiency, check out the costs of ALE or Goto Unit Drivers. For medium driver efficiency, you may be at a break-even point that favors efficiency, but I doubt it. You must be using glass amps. If you have lots of equipment to keep cool, consider an equipment rack and cooling unit to go with it (with radiator placed outside). There are low noise heat transfer units available for this purpose.
Most of the energy dissipation (to heat) is happening in the subwoofer drivers and amplifiers that feed them. I use two Velodyne DD18's in my Florida Home, and they do not raise the temperature even one degree F. in my listening space when driven at room shaking levels.
Regards,
WHG
P.S. When is the last time you had the refrigerant checked in your HVAC system?
If you want high efficiency, check out the costs of ALE or Goto Unit Drivers. For medium driver efficiency, you may be at a break-even point that favors efficiency, but I doubt it. You must be using glass amps. If you have lots of equipment to keep cool, consider an equipment rack and cooling unit to go with it (with radiator placed outside). There are low noise heat transfer units available for this purpose.
Most of the energy dissipation (to heat) is happening in the subwoofer drivers and amplifiers that feed them. I use two Velodyne DD18's in my Florida Home, and they do not raise the temperature even one degree F. in my listening space when driven at room shaking levels.
Regards,
WHG
P.S. When is the last time you had the refrigerant checked in your HVAC system?
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The entire unit is only about a year old, still blows at 39f out of the vents. Between processors, servers, converters, amplifiers, large format displays, various lamps, it just adds up. My equipment is all rack based, I fell in love with racks at a young age. What external radiators do you know of? I come from a computer background, and the only external radiators I know are from water cooling units. But this sounds exciting. I know iStar has some decent stuff, as well as HP, but usually I go the custom route... I'm a fan of large copper passive units, no noise, and generally better cooling, if you do it correctly.
Either way, I usually try to use class D amps that run high wattage for the headroom, and use them with efficient drivers to keep the wattage low. For one of my setups, I have a class D 600w, amp that even maxed out is still delta temps @2c, or something crazy like that. I measured it once a long time ago. But, that is the best of the bunch.
BTW, thanks for those HE brands, as many as I know, both of those I've never heard of at all.
More Later
I suspect that ambient noise level is an issue as well. This site may be of interest.
Cooling Racks - ICAS DC Cooling Rack Cabinet
Regards,
WHG
I suspect that ambient noise level is an issue as well. This site may be of interest.
Cooling Racks - ICAS DC Cooling Rack Cabinet
Regards,
WHG
More Delivered
Rittal was a client back in the 1990's. They make premier grade enclosure products. Here is one of their heat transfer units that may interest you.
Rittal - Liquid Cooling Package LCP Hybrid CW- 3311.600
Regards,
WHG
Rittal was a client back in the 1990's. They make premier grade enclosure products. Here is one of their heat transfer units that may interest you.
Rittal - Liquid Cooling Package LCP Hybrid CW- 3311.600
Regards,
WHG
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