Assuming you can live with the usual dustcap graphics found on car subs, then sure you can use them at home. You should be aware though that a lot of car subs are designed to be used in small boxs so tend to have quite high Fs: the idea being that the car cabin gain will boost the low end. This will lead to poor bass when used in an averaged sixed room.
I suggest that you use one of the many software packages around to simulate what frequency response you will get. Another option is to use a bass boost or Linkwitz transform circuit to reduce the f3 frequency.
Nice one,
David.
I suggest that you use one of the many software packages around to simulate what frequency response you will get. Another option is to use a bass boost or Linkwitz transform circuit to reduce the f3 frequency.
Nice one,
David.
I actually prefer to use car audio subs for home bass, mainly in dedicated active enclosures for home theater, i personally use 2 JL 15'' subs in my home theater setup.
Many of the name brands have suitable subs for home theater, pioneer, sony, kenwood ect all have subs in their range that can be readily adapted for home use.
Many of the name brands have suitable subs for home theater, pioneer, sony, kenwood ect all have subs in their range that can be readily adapted for home use.
I have a car audio subwoofer in my home stereo set up myself. It is an Elemental Designs 12k. Elemental designs is a small internet company that I purchesed a car subwoofer from, and was very very pleased, so they have my buisness for all my low end drivers from now on.
Their website is www.edesignaudio.com
To see my system go to www.sounddomain.com/id/onebadziggy
The drivers I own are no longer available, and they are making better drivers than mine at this time. Also, they are not ugly by anymeans with their simple flat cone. Even mine only have a blue "e" on the dustcap. Very simple and pleasing clean design.
I would reccomend the 12Kx subwoofer for home theater use. It is the most efficent of all the drivers, and will be best powered with a plate amp, if that is the choice of power.
Their website is www.edesignaudio.com
To see my system go to www.sounddomain.com/id/onebadziggy
The drivers I own are no longer available, and they are making better drivers than mine at this time. Also, they are not ugly by anymeans with their simple flat cone. Even mine only have a blue "e" on the dustcap. Very simple and pleasing clean design.
I would reccomend the 12Kx subwoofer for home theater use. It is the most efficent of all the drivers, and will be best powered with a plate amp, if that is the choice of power.
If cost and/or box size is an issue go with car subs . . .
I recently bought this pair of 15's http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3044991950&category=18804
They're like the old Kicker solobaric C series. The guy who sold the sub in the auction above, auctions them and many others off all the time. Also have Credence 12's (like Kicker Solobaric 12" D series subs) for $90 a pair. Although people are figuring out they're just low price Kicker subs and starting to bid more.
Linkwitz transform circuit is a good idea, but I think it means bigger box size, which might be one of your goals when buying a car sub. If you want a low f3 the 12 Credence (Kicker Solobaric) sub is well suited for vented box WinISD told me and it will have a very low f3, like 20 hz or so.
I recently bought this pair of 15's http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3044991950&category=18804
They're like the old Kicker solobaric C series. The guy who sold the sub in the auction above, auctions them and many others off all the time. Also have Credence 12's (like Kicker Solobaric 12" D series subs) for $90 a pair. Although people are figuring out they're just low price Kicker subs and starting to bid more.
Linkwitz transform circuit is a good idea, but I think it means bigger box size, which might be one of your goals when buying a car sub. If you want a low f3 the 12 Credence (Kicker Solobaric) sub is well suited for vented box WinISD told me and it will have a very low f3, like 20 hz or so.
Hi!
But what about this (just some thoughts of mine): What if the layout of the amp is very clear, and you can easily distinct between the PS and the amplifier itself...
Wouldn't it be possible to measure the voltage of the supply (connected inside a car), and then simply disconnect the "normal" supply of the amp, and connect a standard DIY PS which supplies the same voltage to the ampflifier's rails?
Maybe that wouldn't be such a bad idea, since you can't get that powerful amplifiers for home use cheaper...
Of course, the additional costs for supply + heavy filtering with big caps would make it not so cheap, and you then have all the parts from the original PS surplus, but I might be tempted to try it once... got a nice 0.5 ohms stable amp lying around unused...
Bye,
Arndt
Matttcattt said:
But what about this (just some thoughts of mine): What if the layout of the amp is very clear, and you can easily distinct between the PS and the amplifier itself...
Wouldn't it be possible to measure the voltage of the supply (connected inside a car), and then simply disconnect the "normal" supply of the amp, and connect a standard DIY PS which supplies the same voltage to the ampflifier's rails?
Maybe that wouldn't be such a bad idea, since you can't get that powerful amplifiers for home use cheaper...
Of course, the additional costs for supply + heavy filtering with big caps would make it not so cheap, and you then have all the parts from the original PS surplus, but I might be tempted to try it once... got a nice 0.5 ohms stable amp lying around unused...
Bye,
Arndt
Cradle22 said:Hi!
But what about this (just some thoughts of mine): What if the layout of the amp is very clear, and you can easily distinct between the PS and the amplifier itself...
Wouldn't it be possible to measure the voltage of the supply (connected inside a car), and then simply disconnect the "normal" supply of the amp, and connect a standard DIY PS which supplies the same voltage to the ampflifier's rails?
Maybe that wouldn't be such a bad idea, since you can't get that powerful amplifiers for home use cheaper...
Of course, the additional costs for supply + heavy filtering with big caps would make it not so cheap, and you then have all the parts from the original PS surplus, but I might be tempted to try it once... got a nice 0.5 ohms stable amp lying around unused...
Bye,
Arndt
Yea you should be able to do this to most car audio amps, infact you should be able to increase the rail voltage slightly for more power (check for voltage tolerance in down stream components) I re-wound the secondary coil on the toridioal transformer in one of my car audio amps to do this and it worked a treat (though I was trading current for voltage, the amp was running mids/tweets)
I built a 12.5v dc power supply to use my car audio amp at home, but have recently purchased a plate amp and no longer need it. If anyone is interested in taking the parts off my hands, I'll sell them for cheap!
I have the following:
12.5v, 25 ampere transformer
60v 20ampere rectifiers (2 of them in parallel)
heat sink with the rectifiers mounted to it.
20v 1,000,000uf capacitor
I bought the transformer for about $30 shipped, and got the rectifiers and heat sink from a friend. I'll sell the transformer + rectifiers + heat sink for $20 plus shipping (should be about $10 because of weight). I'll sell the capacitor for $25 plus shipping ($5), or I'll sell everything for $40 plus shipping. Email is danielmATemail.ZZZZZtoast.net (take out the ZZZ's)
This is a pic of the sub, and you can see the car amp to the right of it.
http://members.toast.net/jadwiga/myroom/sub.jpg
Dan
I have the following:
12.5v, 25 ampere transformer
60v 20ampere rectifiers (2 of them in parallel)
heat sink with the rectifiers mounted to it.
20v 1,000,000uf capacitor
I bought the transformer for about $30 shipped, and got the rectifiers and heat sink from a friend. I'll sell the transformer + rectifiers + heat sink for $20 plus shipping (should be about $10 because of weight). I'll sell the capacitor for $25 plus shipping ($5), or I'll sell everything for $40 plus shipping. Email is danielmATemail.ZZZZZtoast.net (take out the ZZZ's)
This is a pic of the sub, and you can see the car amp to the right of it.
http://members.toast.net/jadwiga/myroom/sub.jpg
Dan
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