The 2226H might be difficult to substitute for in front loaded designs where the driver's top-end performance is being tasked. As a sub, even in ported systems with a 40Hz cutoff, you could probably get more performance for the money without much trouble. If you're going to cut off above 120 or so and want to go down to 20 you're probably throwing money away. But the OP doesn't want to go below 40 and just wanted an enclosure. Nothing out of whack there.
Well I can't type anything here and prove to anyone that JBL is the best, but I can say that they are widely regarded as the authority on 15" cone transducers since before the D130. Their experience, engineering, and quality control are first rate. Their tolerances are tighter. Their 15" pro units are the most reliable.
The great Kappa driver you mention uses a copper VC. The JBL unit uses flatwound aluminum ribbon which saturates more efficiently while weighing less. The magnet is larger yet the moving mass is less. The xmax is greater.
The frequency response is much flatter on the top end, allowing simpler crossovers at the roll-off. Overall distortion levels are lower. Power compression specs are better. Impedance at resonance is lower. Driver masses lighter. Xmech is more than double = less likely to fail if abused. The JBL driver cools more efficiently, again making it the more reliable driver. Many of these things make the JBL a more accurate = sounding better driver.
You get what you pay for. The Kappa is great. But the JBL is better. It sounds better. Millions who use them swear by them. I wonder why. That said, I would buy the Kappa as its price is more attractive and it's a great unit. But if only the best will do, I know what to buy.
The great Kappa driver you mention uses a copper VC. The JBL unit uses flatwound aluminum ribbon which saturates more efficiently while weighing less. The magnet is larger yet the moving mass is less. The xmax is greater.
The frequency response is much flatter on the top end, allowing simpler crossovers at the roll-off. Overall distortion levels are lower. Power compression specs are better. Impedance at resonance is lower. Driver masses lighter. Xmech is more than double = less likely to fail if abused. The JBL driver cools more efficiently, again making it the more reliable driver. Many of these things make the JBL a more accurate = sounding better driver.
You get what you pay for. The Kappa is great. But the JBL is better. It sounds better. Millions who use them swear by them. I wonder why. That said, I would buy the Kappa as its price is more attractive and it's a great unit. But if only the best will do, I know what to buy.
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Like I said, this customer is sworn to JBL, so I cannot deviate even if I wanted to, but from the discussion, it sounds like it is not a bad choice. The only question seems to be the driver choice, but I really cannot see that this driver is a midbass driver like was mentioned??? I am really inclined to use this driver in this application, but I am a little bit concerned if I will have a problem with how it will perform in the vented design that I am going to use, which by the way will be about the same airspace, but maybe tuned at about 38hz. Thanks for the replies so far too...
Hi
IMO, The JBL2226H-8 in a compact T-TQWT enclosure would be a good choice for a quality sub.
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Yea, I wouldn't recommend using the 2226 below 40hz in high-power situations. It's not its application. The Exodus woofers are real subs and you can EQ the crap out of them to 15 hz if you want. But they are big heavy cones. The JBL will walk all over them from 40-200hz; providing the cleanest, tightest sound available.
What is your budget for this project? You should consider JBL 2242 as DJK says if you can afford it. The JBL TCB box for 18s is the 4688 and the box for 15s is 4685. Here are the links:
http://www.jblpro.com/pub/obsolete/4688.pdf
http://www.jblpro.com/pub/obsolete/4685.pdf
http://www.jblpro.com/pub/obsolete/4688.pdf
http://www.jblpro.com/pub/obsolete/4685.pdf
Yeah, I'd agree. 2242 is PA-style, 2235 more studio-style.
How big a cabinet size will your friend accept? The JBL cabinet mentioned before is 104 pounds! PA subs are just huge, very heavy, will need to be on casters, watch the dimensions or they won't fit through doors. You've really got to lean on him to specify what he really wants size-wise.
Put each driver in isolated enclosures. That way if one blows up, it won't unload the other and take it down as well.
Also, make a cabinet big enough for humongous ports. For those applications, the port is actually moving most of the air. At high SPL it just jets in and out, but at lower volumes radiusing the ports will help. I like big shelf ports myself, and DON'T obstruct them with grilles.
As for the amp-can his electrical service support that? Might actually be better of bridged into 2x16 ohms = 8 ohms total. Just a wild speculation.
The 2226 has excellent breakup performance and there are many successful implementations where they cross to a horn/WG at 1k or so.
Personally, I prefer to cross a 15 at 300-400Hz which is as high as I'm going to use my 2225 and where I crossed the 2226 in my PA.
These drivers don't make very good subs - there are dedicated drivers that have much better performance down low. But they are exceptional midbasses from 40Hz or so and up.
TQWT
IMO, The JBL2226H-8 in a compact T-TQWT enclosure would be a good choice for a quality sub.
I've lucked into 8 2226's and am looking for more impact than my 8" based TH's are producing. Your hornrep figures look great-my problem is I have great difficulty in translating that into an actual design. Any chance that you have or could roughly draw plans-or at a min-show basic areas of a TQWT and where the same hornresp parameters could be found. That's the only way I figured out TH's by looking at labeled TH generic design. THanks
IMO, The JBL2226H-8 in a compact T-TQWT enclosure would be a good choice for a quality sub.
I've lucked into 8 2226's and am looking for more impact than my 8" based TH's are producing. Your hornrep figures look great-my problem is I have great difficulty in translating that into an actual design. Any chance that you have or could roughly draw plans-or at a min-show basic areas of a TQWT and where the same hornresp parameters could be found. That's the only way I figured out TH's by looking at labeled TH generic design. THanks
Sorry to drudge up an old thread, but I recently acquired 6 JBL 2226 (good price) and was searching for good uses of them in a hi-eff hifi system.
I like the T-TQWT idea. I am a little fuzzy with hornresp. Is S2 where you mount the woofer and S4 where you add the port? I'm assuming you can fold this in half and use the taper as an angled divider of a rectangular enclosure.
Basically, I am asking the same thing as Pumpkin above.
What size port do you need for that enclosure?
I just finished cutting wood and I am working on the baffles boy these 2 panels took more time. There are 16 T-Nut holes per panel now 1T-Nut, I had to pull out as I was trying hammer it in for teeth grip it bended so when I used allen wrench to tighten it in it stripped. So now I used 30 min epoxy to have a permanent grip.
Let me see if I can post some pics. I have to redo a baffle as I use a jig saw to cut the hole and put too much pressure now the hole is in an angle
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Let me see if I can post some pics. I have to redo a baffle as I use a jig saw to cut the hole and put too much pressure now the hole is in an angle
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