Does create a shorted turn, but depending on how good you are at transformer surgery you might be able to save it.
There are 64 windings.
and ofcourse midpoint at 32
Thats 1,32 Volt pr winding
That puts it around 2kVA. It is bigger than the Anteks, but not a *lot*.
Looks like similar to RMX4050, which is rated to draw about 1600 VA off the wall socket. Pro amplifier transformers are sized for average current draw with heavily distorted music, not for full sine wave power (which is never used because it sounds bad, blows the speakers and overheats the output transistors). The primary would be good for between 1.6k and 2kVA long term average, with a time constant approaching an hour (try that with a stinking switch mode supply and see how far you get). Plenty for your application. Check the amp draw rating on the back of the amplifier - that will tell you four sure. What gauge wire did you end up using for the secondary? Transformer wire is good for 3.2 amps per square millimeter, or about half its current “rating” when used for building wiring (according to code). #12 is normally used for 20 amp circuits, so good for about 10 in trafo windings where heat builds up. Goes up/down one dB per AWG (+3 AWG is half the current, -3 is double).
While removing and putting back turns on a transformer iron core seems a simple task, there are often hidden aspects anyone doing such a job, to consider, and SATISFY. Air cooled transformers can reach winding temperatures not suitable for common PVC plastic that is used as electrical insulation. My rule is to avoid such plastics, and use what is known and approved to safely work for transformers.
Yes, as the thread originator wrote, plastic insulated wire is cheap compared with enameled winding copper wire, but this is no excuse to expose oneself to the risks of fire and electrocution.
For insulation covering soldered joints I recomment the use of fibreglass heat shealds. They are available at very reasonable prices.
Yes, as the thread originator wrote, plastic insulated wire is cheap compared with enameled winding copper wire, but this is no excuse to expose oneself to the risks of fire and electrocution.
For insulation covering soldered joints I recomment the use of fibreglass heat shealds. They are available at very reasonable prices.
It is the original lacquered thread that is put back on.
There is nothing that has been pulled over the asphalt nor has it been thrown around with it.
The insulation under the winding I have put on again is the one that has been on all the time.
In a few places the copper wire is not varnished but those places do not come close to anything else.
The windings are even tighter than those that originally sat there.
I have tried the transformer on an amplifier module and it works.
Let us close the debate here
There is nothing that has been pulled over the asphalt nor has it been thrown around with it.
The insulation under the winding I have put on again is the one that has been on all the time.
In a few places the copper wire is not varnished but those places do not come close to anything else.
The windings are even tighter than those that originally sat there.
I have tried the transformer on an amplifier module and it works.
Let us close the debate here
Thanks to both who replied. I’ll examine the wire very carefully and see what can be done. I don’t think any turns are actually shorted, but of course I don’t want to chance exposed copper touching! The warnings about materials and temperature are helpful…
The primary is usually interior on most toroid transformers, even the higher voltage tube types from Antek. But that is NOT always the case. I have run into some 1kVA units, with the 27 volt dual secondaries inside, and a single non-bifilar 100V/50 Hz primary outside. Similar pulls out of the same type of telecom equipment for 115V/60 Hz had the (dual) primary inside. Both types got extra secondaries added (by me), but the ones with the primary outside got an extra layer of tape put on before adding the other winding. I had one with damaged tape, and it got a dozen varnish dips before putting on new tape and the other winding. Enough buildup to coat things pretty good. I didn’t want that primary shorting out on me.