They are rated at 8A 200V. As an example, 180W into 4 ohms is almost 7 amps. So I think you are fortunate 
My main concern was really the voltage, Schottky parts are usually rated quite low in terms of voltage, usually no more than 100V. Which can make it difficult to achieve the rails needed for higher power.
Have you considered making your own PCBs? I mean just the production part, using a given design.
My main concern was really the voltage, Schottky parts are usually rated quite low in terms of voltage, usually no more than 100V. Which can make it difficult to achieve the rails needed for higher power.Have you considered making your own PCBs? I mean just the production part, using a given design.
richie00boy said:They are rated at 8A 200V. As an example, 180W into 4 ohms is almost 7 amps. So I think you are fortunate
Have you considered making your own PCBs? I mean just the production part, using a given design.
Isn't that 8A x 4 though? So 32A of available juice. I also thought the rail voltage would be fairly high and the current required of the whole bridge would be about 3-4 amps maximum. Anyway, this is just theoretical, they appear to be rated highly enough, which is a good start. And voltage is fine.
I've not considered DIY pcbs. I'd rather not to be honest. I don't even understand much electronics yet. And I don't have the facilities to etch PCBs. I'd be happy to stuff parts into someone else's design. Of course even that's only partially DIY! Not my design!
LOL you have lots of reading to do!
The current flows in series through each diode, so the limit oif current is 8 amps. If the parts were paralleled you would gain increased current capacity, but it's not wise to parallel diodes as they won't current share that well.
Whatever current is flowing in the load, is flowing in the rectifier at least as much.
The current flows in series through each diode, so the limit oif current is 8 amps. If the parts were paralleled you would gain increased current capacity, but it's not wise to parallel diodes as they won't current share that well.
Whatever current is flowing in the load, is flowing in the rectifier at least as much.
richie00boy said:How many diodes did you buy?
They would be suitable for my 100W amp PSU, which is all neat an onboard, but I doubt 12,000uF of non-fancy capacitance is good enough for you
I think I bought 8 diodes. Actually small jobs I don't mind working out and building point-to-point. If it's, say, a psu or op-amp crossover type thing. I can *just* about cope with that.
lmao @ non-fancy! Haha, yes you got me, I'm a sucker for what forum people call "boutique" parts!
I'm well aware that so much of the sound comes from the psu, whether it be a cd player or power amplifier. This is the guiding force in my ideas now. Whatever amp I build or buy it must have a good power supply.
Hi,
the message I was trying to get across is that there is a risk that these monoblocks may not perform at their best into 4ohm reactive loads. And I also tried to say do not bridge.
I hope my message is clearer.
A single channel @ 8ohms using 125W or a pair of 8ohm channels using 250W (=125W +125W) should be more than adequate for most domestic systems.
the message I was trying to get across is that there is a risk that these monoblocks may not perform at their best into 4ohm reactive loads. And I also tried to say do not bridge.
I hope my message is clearer.
A single channel @ 8ohms using 125W or a pair of 8ohm channels using 250W (=125W +125W) should be more than adequate for most domestic systems.
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