Power amp made in Asia, has dual-purpose LED, blue for mains power, turns bright red for peak indicator.
3 wire colors to the LED are black, brown, and red. 3 wires in a line where they join the LED, brown in the center.
I need to install a R to lower the blue intensity, but leave the red/peak intensity as is.
What wire color is mains/blue LED +? (I'm guessing black = N, brown = mains/blue LED +, red = peak/red LED +.)
Thanks!
3 wire colors to the LED are black, brown, and red. 3 wires in a line where they join the LED, brown in the center.
I need to install a R to lower the blue intensity, but leave the red/peak intensity as is.
What wire color is mains/blue LED +? (I'm guessing black = N, brown = mains/blue LED +, red = peak/red LED +.)
Thanks!
Hard or impossible to guess.
Can you make the red LED light on demand reliably?
Then I would just cut one wire. Pick one.
If the blue light goes out, but the red light still works, you got lucky. Repair the snip with a 1K and see where it's at.
If both blue and red quit, you found the common wire. Splice and guess again.
If blue works and red is dead, mark it as the red wire, splice, guess again.
Can you make the red LED light on demand reliably?
Then I would just cut one wire. Pick one.
If the blue light goes out, but the red light still works, you got lucky. Repair the snip with a 1K and see where it's at.
If both blue and red quit, you found the common wire. Splice and guess again.
If blue works and red is dead, mark it as the red wire, splice, guess again.
That's a smart idea, but unfortunately, no can do. The sub amp makes about 500/950W @ 8/4 ohm (1/3rd duty cycle). I have no suitable dummy load, and I have never seen the red light driving my current 4 subs (it would be really loud).
The vendor tech said they don't know, and only ship amps elsewhere for service. Accompanied by stern warning that "modified" amps have no warranty, which this amp is out of warranty anyway.
The vendor tech said they don't know, and only ship amps elsewhere for service. Accompanied by stern warning that "modified" amps have no warranty, which this amp is out of warranty anyway.
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If you turn the amp off, and use a DVM in diode mode, you should be able to light
the red LED when the DVM leads are directly across it in the right polarity. Then
you'll know which lead the blue anode is, even if it won't light up with the DVM.
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