been listening for about 4 days now and very impressed with the stability and sound quality 🙂
Had a look on ebay for a case for the pi and tone board but not seen anything i like
loads of stuff just for the pi but nothing you can fit the tone board into
I dont just want to chuck it into a ally box
i will be building a power supply internal or separate to the streamer and i have ordered a re wireable usb A plug so i can shorten the usb cable supplied by Khadas and leave the power un connected so it can run on a separate supply without removing anything on the tone board .
any ideas ?
20200522_095933 by glenn jarrett, on Flickr
Had a look on ebay for a case for the pi and tone board but not seen anything i like
loads of stuff just for the pi but nothing you can fit the tone board into
I dont just want to chuck it into a ally box
i will be building a power supply internal or separate to the streamer and i have ordered a re wireable usb A plug so i can shorten the usb cable supplied by Khadas and leave the power un connected so it can run on a separate supply without removing anything on the tone board .
any ideas ?
20200522_095933 by glenn jarrett, on FlickrE.g. Fusion 360 (free for non-commercial work) + 3D printer + taping the inside with copper tape as shielding.
Aluminum Case for Khadas Tone Board - Audiophonics
they are also some other Tone Board cases available on amazon
they are also some other Tone Board cases available on amazon
i dont have access to a 3d printer and i have seen the cases you can get just for the tone board but i want a case for both units and possibly a power supply
I'm running the same setup.
I use an Allo Shanti (2*5V) to power the PI and the KTB separately.
IMO the best PS solution.
My KTB gets powered via its GPIO pins and not via USB!
Better keep the KTB in a separate box to avoid any
interference with the PI.
You shouldn't cut a USB cable. Just buy a shorter one.
You simply can't control if a DIY version is properly working afterwards.
Good luck.
Enjoy.
I use an Allo Shanti (2*5V) to power the PI and the KTB separately.
IMO the best PS solution.
My KTB gets powered via its GPIO pins and not via USB!
Better keep the KTB in a separate box to avoid any
interference with the PI.
You shouldn't cut a USB cable. Just buy a shorter one.
You simply can't control if a DIY version is properly working afterwards.
Good luck.
Enjoy.
I have been using an ASUS Xonar between my RPi Volumio streamer and the amp, but I'm not a fan of the multiple components and cables laying around, so I have a KTB on order. It will take a couple of prototypes, but I plan to design/mashup a 3d printed single enclosure for the RPi, KTB and display. For shielding, I'm going to give this stuff a try:
MG Chemicals 841WB Super Shield Water Based Nickel Print Conductive Coating, 12mL Liquid: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
MG Chemicals 841WB Super Shield Water Based Nickel Print Conductive Coating, 12mL Liquid: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
I have good experience with self-adhesive copper tape https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=copper+tape&_sacat=0 for shielding inside the 3D-printed enclosures. A bit laborious (requires a sharp knife or scalpel) but OK for single pieces. Easy to solder the ground wires.
I'll give this a try then - the conductive paint looks kind of like cancer sauce compared to just using copper tape.
For rather complicated shapes (e.g. https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/equ...nsation-measurement-setup-38.html#post6187405 ) a combination of narrow and wide tape saves time.
Officially there are tapes with conducting and non-conducting adhesive. Those from ebay never specify that but if the tape is well nail-pressed against the underlaying copper it has good contact. Better to keep the overlaid areas larger, the tape is cheap.
Officially there are tapes with conducting and non-conducting adhesive. Those from ebay never specify that but if the tape is well nail-pressed against the underlaying copper it has good contact. Better to keep the overlaid areas larger, the tape is cheap.