I had an Aleph P preamp (commercial, not diy) which I sold to a friend a couple of years ago when I was laid off. He says the remote isn't working and asked if I could fix it. I do a lot of diy, and had built a diy aleph p before I bought this one. I do have the service manual as well.
Thoughts as to which part(s) might be bad and need replacement? I haven't looked at it yet.
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Thoughts as to which part(s) might be bad and need replacement? I haven't looked at it yet.
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I'd start by examining the hand-held part of the remote: check battery compartment for corrosion/leakage, make sure the IR diode is emitting, check interface of batteries and PCB in the remote for broken wires/traces from stress/dropping, remove the rubber button cover and clean the contacts.
I'd wager 90% certainty that the above will restore functionality.
I'd wager 90% certainty that the above will restore functionality.
I am a recent new owner of an Aleph P (commercial with remote) - what a wonderful sounding preamp!
So, apologies for resurrecting an ancient thread, but has anyone experience with battery life in the remote control? It seems I have to recharge the 2 AAAs weekly - as if they are draining without being used. I am wondering if this is a quirk or there's a problem.
So, apologies for resurrecting an ancient thread, but has anyone experience with battery life in the remote control? It seems I have to recharge the 2 AAAs weekly - as if they are draining without being used. I am wondering if this is a quirk or there's a problem.
Late to weigh in on this, but we do occasionally see either a bad IR transmitter or receiver.
Quick and dirty check is to look at the transmitter with a CCD camera and see if it's flashing when you push a button.
IF it is then we look to make sure the IR receiver is aligned with the F/P window and then look for output on the receiver with a scope.
As Wayne indicated 80% of the remote issues are battery box related. 10% stuck / contaminated buttons, 5%++ are IR emitters or receivers and a small percentage are aged out electrolytic caps in the remote.
Quick and dirty check is to look at the transmitter with a CCD camera and see if it's flashing when you push a button.
IF it is then we look to make sure the IR receiver is aligned with the F/P window and then look for output on the receiver with a scope.
As Wayne indicated 80% of the remote issues are battery box related. 10% stuck / contaminated buttons, 5%++ are IR emitters or receivers and a small percentage are aged out electrolytic caps in the remote.
Thanks for the reply. I looked at the current draw and it was not measurable unless I depressed a button. It seems the remote batteries are now lasting much longer, so perhaps it was a stuck button that has not become unstuck.
thanks
Dan
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