Hello,
I'm pretty new to soundmixers and amplifiers... basically most things that work with instruments or microphones I know nearly nothing about.
But I do find them very interesting, so when my brother in law asked if I wanted something from the radio studio where he worked (they sadly had to shut down) I said: 'Ofcourse!'.
So now I own a kinda decent microphone and a big soundmixer. However this setup is waaaayyyy too large to use on a daily basis for example for voice calls. So I was wondering if it would be possible to convert this big soundmixer into a smaller one, by removing a few lines, making a new enclosure and possibly doing stuff don't know anything about. That's why I'm asking it here.
The soundmixer is an older StudioMaster Session Mix 16-2.
Thanks in advance!
I'm pretty new to soundmixers and amplifiers... basically most things that work with instruments or microphones I know nearly nothing about.
But I do find them very interesting, so when my brother in law asked if I wanted something from the radio studio where he worked (they sadly had to shut down) I said: 'Ofcourse!'.
So now I own a kinda decent microphone and a big soundmixer. However this setup is waaaayyyy too large to use on a daily basis for example for voice calls. So I was wondering if it would be possible to convert this big soundmixer into a smaller one, by removing a few lines, making a new enclosure and possibly doing stuff don't know anything about. That's why I'm asking it here.
The soundmixer is an older StudioMaster Session Mix 16-2.
Thanks in advance!
It's not likely the internal circuitry is modular as in 1 module per channel, most likely everything is on 1 large circuit board and that means cutting it down would be next to impossible for a non technical DIY'er. You have a unit that would be worth a few bucks on the used market as it is but will be worthless hacked up, so best to sell it and pickup something of a more appropriate size or make room and use it as is.
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Yep, it is modular, but it's a big job to cut it down, especially if you don't understand mixer architectures.
Back in the early 1990s my father combined a Harrison 2832 and a Harrison 3232 into a custom 56-input desk. At the same time, he did a full rebuild, replaced all of the capacitors, most of the op-amps, and (I believe) all of the pots. So it can be done, but it is a massive project even for a small desk. Mixing console projects can quickly evolve to take a ridiculous amount of time.
Back in the early 1990s my father combined a Harrison 2832 and a Harrison 3232 into a custom 56-input desk. At the same time, he did a full rebuild, replaced all of the capacitors, most of the op-amps, and (I believe) all of the pots. So it can be done, but it is a massive project even for a small desk. Mixing console projects can quickly evolve to take a ridiculous amount of time.
Yes that is modular with all discrete through-hole components which means it's pretty old. Now that is both good and bad, it likely uses good quality components but all those electrolytic capacitors(blue cans) are at or past their life expectancy and should be replaced, and the achiles heel of a modular design are all those cable connection points that oxidize and become problematic.
If this thing works well you should use and enjoy it, given it's design it could be scaled down but you may just open a can of worms or unintentionally create problems with intermittent connections.. channels or functions that drop out with no warning.
If this thing works well you should use and enjoy it, given it's design it could be scaled down but you may just open a can of worms or unintentionally create problems with intermittent connections.. channels or functions that drop out with no warning.
You will hardly get more than 100 bucks for one in good condition. Yours will get you like 50 bucks tops. I have two exactly like this. Yours seems to be modified already, all those rainbow flat cables and fader-down switches are not in original afaik. I suspect faders were cut open to access switches... Ch13 fader seems broken. I wouldn't buy it.
I'll chime in and agree that it's not junk, but would be a lot of work to cut it down. If the chassis were the type where each channel strip was a separate module - that would be a lot easier to split apart.
On this mixer it looks like the power supply and all the I/O section are to the far right, so you could cut off some of the channels on the left and then terminate or eliminate their connections into the mix bus. But the chassis metal work is not something I could handle. Is it something you'd want to undertake?
On this mixer it looks like the power supply and all the I/O section are to the far right, so you could cut off some of the channels on the left and then terminate or eliminate their connections into the mix bus. But the chassis metal work is not something I could handle.
Is it something you'd want to undertake?
From the look of it, the most difficult part would be metalwork. You could remove all the channels you don't need, starting from the left and also keep the 4 pcb at the right which have the output section and the PSU. And then "simply" cut away the empty part at the left... which of course wouldn't be that simple unless you have access to good metalworking tools. You'd have to recreate a left side panel.
It still would leave you with quite a big slab as you can't really change the depth of it. Using it flipped on the side would be a pain.
You might also have to swap some channels and faders to only keep the ones in best shape.
All said and done, it's a lot of time and effort if you just need something simple to plug you mic in.
edit: Pano was faster. What he said.
It still would leave you with quite a big slab as you can't really change the depth of it. Using it flipped on the side would be a pain.
You might also have to swap some channels and faders to only keep the ones in best shape.
All said and done, it's a lot of time and effort if you just need something simple to plug you mic in.
edit: Pano was faster. What he said.
I picked up a used Peavey PV8 for $40. Master volume pot was bad, $2 for pot and $4 for 2mm screws to install it. All left outs were dead, due to one bad plated through board hole (via). Learned a lot about the circuit by crawling through it with an analog VOM tracing music.
Trade this one off to someone who has a band.
Other brands okay, 90's Alesis, Mackie from same era. You want through hole components, not surface mount, to work on with a $40 soldering iron.
Watch out buying cheap old mono mixers. they are great for solo guitar + voice but not much use for mastering your own tracks on a PC etc with audacity. For that you want stereo.
Trade this one off to someone who has a band.
Other brands okay, 90's Alesis, Mackie from same era. You want through hole components, not surface mount, to work on with a $40 soldering iron.
Watch out buying cheap old mono mixers. they are great for solo guitar + voice but not much use for mastering your own tracks on a PC etc with audacity. For that you want stereo.
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I personally would steer clear of older Alesis and Mackie boards. 1990s consoles are a big enough load of trouble to begin with, and that is doubly true for those which were inexpensive when they were new. Noisy pots and switches are a problem for any older analog console- that includes the ultra high end stuff like the Neve VR series. It's an even bigger problem on boards that used cheap parts.
There are a lot of beat up old Mackie mixers around. And yes, the pots can get noisy and channels dir. But it's remarkable how well they have held up. They have been a workhorse of the A/V industry for years. Fortunately I never had to fix one. You might find a good one cheap used.
FWIW, the early 14 channel Mackies all used a power transformer made by someone here on diyAudio.
FWIW, the early 14 channel Mackies all used a power transformer made by someone here on diyAudio.
Now is a good time to buy if you are in the market for an analog mixer.
People are dumping their analog mixers for newer digital or at least digitally controlled mixers,
Fun to hold a 1U device that has eight inputs, ten outputs, Controlled with a USB cable.
It is sort of a game changer when you do not need to run all of your inputs down a long snake. You can control the mixer from multiple locations. Change patching in seconds.
People are dumping their analog mixers for newer digital or at least digitally controlled mixers,
Fun to hold a 1U device that has eight inputs, ten outputs, Controlled with a USB cable.
It is sort of a game changer when you do not need to run all of your inputs down a long snake. You can control the mixer from multiple locations. Change patching in seconds.
Analog mixers are still a good option if you have to leave the system under the control of a perfect novice. Easier to explain: touch this, don't touch that.
But even something at the entry level like a soundcraft UI12-16-24 is just so much more powerful. Compressor, fully parametric EQ, de-esser, noise gate on all channels as well as a band EQ and automatic anti feedback on the outputs ? That's a lot of boxes you don't have to carry around (if you could afford them in the first place).
And a UI24r is 750€... my zed420 is twice that with its case (and yes, I got it used but like new for a 1/3rd of the price).
But even something at the entry level like a soundcraft UI12-16-24 is just so much more powerful. Compressor, fully parametric EQ, de-esser, noise gate on all channels as well as a band EQ and automatic anti feedback on the outputs ? That's a lot of boxes you don't have to carry around (if you could afford them in the first place).
And a UI24r is 750€... my zed420 is twice that with its case (and yes, I got it used but like new for a 1/3rd of the price).
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