I am thinking of making my own speaker
Basically the key here is dimension
2x2x1(LxHxW)
Drivers are initially 6.5" full range and 8" full range
6.5 fullrange covers tweeter and upper midrange and will be sealed in top portion half way.
8" will be lower midrange and bass >30hz and with passive reflector in halfway.
Back half of speaker will be Transmission line and vented at bottom of speaker
Transmission line portion need some work in design so its in phase with front woofer.
My idea is instead of venting with boom let passive radiator take some of work.
Also when when air moves with ported there will be differential pressure inside. With passive radiator air will be in equilibrium so no distortion.
Let me know speaker experts think
First half box is speaker box. Second half is transmission line.
Basically the key here is dimension
2x2x1(LxHxW)
Drivers are initially 6.5" full range and 8" full range
6.5 fullrange covers tweeter and upper midrange and will be sealed in top portion half way.
8" will be lower midrange and bass >30hz and with passive reflector in halfway.
Back half of speaker will be Transmission line and vented at bottom of speaker
Transmission line portion need some work in design so its in phase with front woofer.
My idea is instead of venting with boom let passive radiator take some of work.
Also when when air moves with ported there will be differential pressure inside. With passive radiator air will be in equilibrium so no distortion.
Let me know speaker experts think
First half box is speaker box. Second half is transmission line.
Before that i have questions.
First i want to dive into closed box design.
https://site.diy-loudspeakers.com/closed-box-tuning
If i have big box ..it almost open baffle speaker in a way.
What do i lose in big box compare to small box.
Small box give boom boom is low volume in nearfield.
before that my reason for speaker design is this.
Almost all speakers designed only for average volume. As volume increases most speakers go haywire.
Especially small box speakers.
Why Speaker manufacturers use small box instad of big box in closed enclosure setup?
we come to the ported speakers later.
First i want to dive into closed box design.
https://site.diy-loudspeakers.com/closed-box-tuning
If i have big box ..it almost open baffle speaker in a way.
What do i lose in big box compare to small box.
Small box give boom boom is low volume in nearfield.
before that my reason for speaker design is this.
Almost all speakers designed only for average volume. As volume increases most speakers go haywire.
Especially small box speakers.
Why Speaker manufacturers use small box instad of big box in closed enclosure setup?
we come to the ported speakers later.
It is an infinite baffle. Ok, you have a partial point..
High box Q gives boom.
You can try a larger driver, it will usually want a larger box.
All these speaker calculation is a moot point if you have large box. I wonder why people waste so much time speaker design. I know shipping cost increase for big box. Just use lighter plywood.
I wnat to use 8" full range and 61/2 fullrange in a 1x2x2feet box. Now all i need to do is search for best damn full range within my budget. 250 for 8" driver.
I wnat to use 8" full range and 61/2 fullrange in a 1x2x2feet box. Now all i need to do is search for best damn full range within my budget. 250 for 8" driver.
Alex, I think you are wasting your time and anyone else's time as well with this idea.
Best start reading speaker design theory and educating yourself.
That would be the first thing to do before making strange statements.
I wish it was it was as simple as you think to design a quality speaker.
So many variables and so many things to consider.
And I'm not even mentioning crossover design.
Google is your friend and the internet is your library.
And it's free, use it.
Hi Alex,
There are few misconceptions about passive radiators and being low/lower distortion than ports is one of them. As with ported loudspeakers, there aren't lots of passive radiator loudspeakers designed well. You do need a good set of measurements to prove it but since its function is at very low frequencies, the disadvantages of passive radiator will be less obvious to the naked eye (ear?).
Namely passive radiator, as any woofer, has it's linear excursion. Also, PR has its Mms and there is easily treshold point from which PR begins to load woofer properly - in user terms, it is minimum applied voltage needed for woofer and pr to function as designed. Passive radiator loads woofer differently at different voltage. Pressure buildups are usual for ported, PR, closed or any other speaker principle so there is no escaping from that (oppen baffle is probably least affected).
Here you can find measurements of a well regarded passive radiator loaded loudspeaker and distortion at low frequencies doesn't differ from ported speakers. Bare in mind that woofers used are SB17NBAC35 that are quite low distorting units.
In a nutshell, it is not ports you should be afraid of, but poorly designed ported speakers (it applies to any known bass loading principle though).
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IMHO its a bad idea to use two fullrange drivers. A 6,5 inch fullrange driver will have insufficient dispersion in the high-tweeter range and a 8 inch fullrange will have insufficient bass. Better to build a regular two-way OR use a smaller fullrange (3-4 inch) for the mid-highs and a dedicated bass driver for the bass (called a FAST).
I see people use only one full range in a transmission line setup. Are you saying its a bad design?
Also best speaker for midrange and tweeter is open baffle. Big sealed box will do that. I give 2 feet distance inside so no distortion from back wave.
Moved low midrange and upper bass to transmission line setup or Passive radiator combined with transmission line. I do not think it need PR but i am working on how to reduce any backwave from driver and also passive radiator may its self create backwave.
So i have have to think on that. Finding right radiator is key so it do not move much air but just destroys any inside pressure. Its an idea.
May be remove transmission line just put passive radiator at end. By the time it reaches it would lose all its energy. I am only trying to create infinite baffle in a box.
For low bass there will be sealed subwoofer. Its for music standmount.
Also best speaker for midrange and tweeter is open baffle. Big sealed box will do that. I give 2 feet distance inside so no distortion from back wave.
Moved low midrange and upper bass to transmission line setup or Passive radiator combined with transmission line. I do not think it need PR but i am working on how to reduce any backwave from driver and also passive radiator may its self create backwave.
So i have have to think on that. Finding right radiator is key so it do not move much air but just destroys any inside pressure. Its an idea.
May be remove transmission line just put passive radiator at end. By the time it reaches it would lose all its energy. I am only trying to create infinite baffle in a box.
For low bass there will be sealed subwoofer. Its for music standmount.
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I will make a drawing of this and get feedback. Initially two full range for simplicity cross over. I will make modification after how it sound. Also please give me list of 6.5" 8ohm full range and 8" full range 8 ohm.
Not sure on impedence yet. I have to copy celestion ditton 100 configuration. On what impedence of that tweeter and woofer is.
I normally felt 8 ohm sound is less sensitive but has detail in the sound. So it has to resemble that configuration.
Passive radiator will have unique characteristics. You can push but it will come back slowly to its original position. This allows less distortion inside from the backwave of passive radiator.
simpler cross over than this.
Not sure on impedence yet. I have to copy celestion ditton 100 configuration. On what impedence of that tweeter and woofer is.
I normally felt 8 ohm sound is less sensitive but has detail in the sound. So it has to resemble that configuration.
Passive radiator will have unique characteristics. You can push but it will come back slowly to its original position. This allows less distortion inside from the backwave of passive radiator.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
simpler cross over than this.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Alex,
This is a mature forum. I believe it's important for you to know there are known known's, known unknowns, and unknown unknowns, and then find where you fit into each of those. If you ask honest questions here you'll usually get honest, informed answers, but if you make ignorant statements, then you probably won't get much.
Do a bit more reading, or take a couple steps back and ask some more basic questions.
Regards,
Shawn
What changed that made it possible to now make good loudspeakers small? Once loudspeakers needed big boxes for good low frequency response. - Quora
I dont believe in small box good sound. Need good drivers with big magnets and big box in that order.
BOSE is selling small speakers. It has its limits. Small speakers only good for home theater setup.
For music , you need big box. Partially sealed. That is my theory. I am sticking with it.
I only created thread thinking someone probably tried this way.
This is only reason vintage speakers still sound better than any <1000 dollar speakers.
I dont believe in small box good sound. Need good drivers with big magnets and big box in that order.
BOSE is selling small speakers. It has its limits. Small speakers only good for home theater setup.
For music , you need big box. Partially sealed. That is my theory. I am sticking with it.
I only created thread thinking someone probably tried this way.
This is only reason vintage speakers still sound better than any <1000 dollar speakers.
No, I said that your suggested idea with two fullrange drivers was, imho, a bad idea. You asked for opinions on your idea. No strawmans please.
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ZU Omen DEF Mk1 speakers review/ What is the Zu sound? - YouTube
Full range is getting noisy in high frequency. May be all full ranges are good only for mid volume. I might need to change the drivers concept.
I want to build speakers that do not become noisy in high range when volume increased. I want to keep same timbre.
Full range is getting noisy in high frequency. May be all full ranges are good only for mid volume. I might need to change the drivers concept.
I want to build speakers that do not become noisy in high range when volume increased. I want to keep same timbre.
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