Have these Caps been bypassed in this picture ??

[scm]

The red arrows show where the grey wires go, the two circles show what the subwoofer caps are soldered to.

Also near that left side circle is where the copper coil and the other wire for the subwoofer are soldered too.

 

[AllenB]

There has been some confusion here firstly whether there are three or four caps at the woofer, and secondly between the mid and woofer section.

 

[scm]

There has been some confusion here firstly whether there are three or four caps at the woofer, and secondly between the mid and woofer section.

There are 8 caps for the sub and 4 for the mids ALL the same values.

 

[AllenB]

Each parallel pairing is 2x100. Divide by the number of series clusters. I think I can see 50uF for the woofer and 100uF for the mid.

 

[tsmith1315]

There is a node between the two series clusters for the woofer, so I see it as two 100uF's. Have I overlooked something?

 

[scm]

It`s been suggested to me by a knowledgeable member of another forum to just replace the caps exactly as they are and with the exact same values and put new/upgraded ones in.

Also he suggested that the Vishay bypass cap can stay as is but if I wanted to I could replace it too.

Sounds reasonable to me..I was looking to make the change out as simple as possible because my soldering skills are terrible.

Any opinion`s on this approach ?

 

[eg92b16a]

Thanks Tim.
So, I can use 2 caps rated at 100uf 100V to replace those 8 100uf 50V for the subwoofer and then 1 100uf 100V to replace the 4 for the midrange then correct ??

Just want to get the parts needed on the way...

That’s exactly how I see it. Just replace each cluster with a 100uf 100v cap and you should be right to go. If you go with poly caps as replacements, then you may find the sound is a bit brighter than before. See if you like it first.
If you don’t like the sound, then you’ll have to go back to original, and have learned a whole lot in the process.