I am looking into a project with an 8.75" driver from Wavecor in a sealed floorstander with a QTC at around 0.5. But I have met some objections where people says that the xmax of 6.5mm isn't enough for a sealed build. I figure that I should be able to reach close to 100dB down to pretty low frequencies (50Hz) before reaching an excursion of 6.5mm. But how much is 100dB pure bass?
How loud do I play my music before I reach 100dB+ at 50Hz or lower? I think I can play pretty damn loud without maxing them out. Especially considering the roll of.
I think 6.5mm is pretty decent in an 8.75" woofer. I can't see how any sealed speakers builds would work without pure subwoofer drivers if 8.75" and 6.5mm doesn't cut it.
I live in an apartment and I intend to build my speakers for music and not movies. So I don't need tremendous listening volume or huge amounts of bass.
Am I wrong when I think these drivers can cut it? Is 10-12"+ subwoofer drives with 10mm+ xmax a necessity for a decent sealed speaker for music at livingroom listening levels?
How loud do I play my music before I reach 100dB+ at 50Hz or lower? I think I can play pretty damn loud without maxing them out. Especially considering the roll of.
I think 6.5mm is pretty decent in an 8.75" woofer. I can't see how any sealed speakers builds would work without pure subwoofer drivers if 8.75" and 6.5mm doesn't cut it.
I live in an apartment and I intend to build my speakers for music and not movies. So I don't need tremendous listening volume or huge amounts of bass.
Am I wrong when I think these drivers can cut it? Is 10-12"+ subwoofer drives with 10mm+ xmax a necessity for a decent sealed speaker for music at livingroom listening levels?
+1
6.5mm is totally respectable, and by any sensible standard good.
Will the driver ring an outdoor rock concerts bars line? No. But it will be good in a domestic setting.
Unless you pick yourself for wanting LOUD BASS then this should be a good starter.
If you one day added a sub, used above say 80Hz, an 8 inch driver would do very well indeed.
By the way a sealed box will behave better at low frequencies than vented in terms of excursion control.
6.5mm is totally respectable, and by any sensible standard good.
Will the driver ring an outdoor rock concerts bars line? No. But it will be good in a domestic setting.
Unless you pick yourself for wanting LOUD BASS then this should be a good starter.
If you one day added a sub, used above say 80Hz, an 8 inch driver would do very well indeed.
By the way a sealed box will behave better at low frequencies than vented in terms of excursion control.
We have come to use Xmax ratings as an indication of how much output we can get out of a woofer before the onset of obvious distortion, but it is not very closely correlated. Rest easy with the Wavecor woofer you've chosen though. It is a fantasic driver and will exhibit lower distorion at higher outputs than almost any other 8" non-subwoofer driver I know of. I expect you'll be very satisfied with the bass, though a Qtc of 0.5 is a little lean for my tastes.
Thanks all! What you all say is in line with my expectations. Together with room gain I think I will have all the capacity I need. 
I honestly haven't hear many closed speakers so I don't really know what to expect from a Qtc of 0.5. You think it will be too weak punch in it? I heard people claim room gain will make up for it. And I want as good transients and as detailed sound as possible, where I can hear the nuances even in the bass range.
Yep, no punch or thump with just deep bass. I prefer a Q of around 0.85. The AR18 has a Q of 1 and sounds very nice. The JPW AP2 is higher at around 1.4 IIRC and sounds very tight but the bass is a little 'one-note'.
A Q of 0.5 is ok for subwoofers where they are crossed at very low frequencies or maybe in a car where you have a lot of cabin gain.
Just checked and I have the 4ohm version of that woofer saved on my pc. It looks to me like a passive radiator would suite this driver best because sealed wont give much bass (depending on what your expectations are) and ported would either need a port that's too long or risk chuffing with a narrow diameter, but shorter port.
Best thing to do is simulate with something like WinISD.
Best thing to do is simulate with something like WinISD.
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