You're welcome! There were others too, with a college student eventually working for Tom Danley after he started his own company and then struck out on his own over at AVS IIRC......hmm, don't see it in the vendor area, only SVS; regardless, heady times for novice HT system DIYers that has evolved into a 'serious as a heart attack' forum over on AVS with mega buck systems apparently the rule rather than the exception, so basically just a pretty pictures site for me and then only late at night when my relatively slow speed cable hookup doesn't take too long to load all those high res pics and endless ads.
GM
GM
As it turns out, realized all my RS 12" speakers I did over the decades was with the Utah made 40-1007, which when it went to Pan Asia, returned as the 40-1026/1026A as late as 2000 whereas the 40-1034 was higher 30 Hz Fs, 1.04 Qts, lower 6.83 ft^3 Vas that superceded it in 2001.
GM
A Brit by the name of John Kenneth Wynn has documented in detail work he's done on his NS1000 speakers -- mostly on capacitor replacements, but many other things like active xover work. Worth studying, for sure: Index
I recently acquired a pair of NS1000 in decent shape & have been surprised & pleased how good they sound in my system. Also picked up a pair of the beryllium mid domes with the intent of building an active custom speaker system around them.
So far, the plan is:
SBAcoustics 12" SB34NRXL75-8 in 3'+ sealed box
Scanspeak 22W/8534G00 8" in <1' sealed box
Yamaha JA0801 mid dome
SBAcoustics SB29BNC-C000-4 (beryllium) or Aurum Cantus AST2560 AMT
(I have all these drivers on hand, for various other projects
)
Probably in a 2-box setup with the bass driver in a big lower box and the rest in another atop. Minimum baffle width, rounded edges.
4th order Xovers at 125, 600, and 6000Hz with miniDSP 4x10.
That 8" driver is used on Linkwitz's LX521 speaker system. I think this will solve the issue of thin lower mids noted by many NS1000 listeners.
Just when I can get to all this is the usual quandary. Too many projects, too little time!
Curious Note: That mid dome is spec'd by Yamaha as 8.8cm diameter, but in reality the dome measures about 6.5cm or 2.5". It's only if you include the surround that 8.8cm is justified. But the effective diaphragm area is about 42cm, less than the 50cm of ATC's famous 3" dome (https://www.aos-lautsprecher.de/pdf/chassis/ATCSM75.pdf)
I recently acquired a pair of NS1000 in decent shape & have been surprised & pleased how good they sound in my system. Also picked up a pair of the beryllium mid domes with the intent of building an active custom speaker system around them.
So far, the plan is:
SBAcoustics 12" SB34NRXL75-8 in 3'+ sealed box
Scanspeak 22W/8534G00 8" in <1' sealed box
Yamaha JA0801 mid dome
SBAcoustics SB29BNC-C000-4 (beryllium) or Aurum Cantus AST2560 AMT
(I have all these drivers on hand, for various other projects
)Probably in a 2-box setup with the bass driver in a big lower box and the rest in another atop. Minimum baffle width, rounded edges.
4th order Xovers at 125, 600, and 6000Hz with miniDSP 4x10.
That 8" driver is used on Linkwitz's LX521 speaker system. I think this will solve the issue of thin lower mids noted by many NS1000 listeners.
Just when I can get to all this is the usual quandary. Too many projects, too little time!
Curious Note: That mid dome is spec'd by Yamaha as 8.8cm diameter, but in reality the dome measures about 6.5cm or 2.5". It's only if you include the surround that 8.8cm is justified. But the effective diaphragm area is about 42cm, less than the 50cm of ATC's famous 3" dome (https://www.aos-lautsprecher.de/pdf/chassis/ATCSM75.pdf)
Interesting thread. I just picked up an NS-1000M from Facebook Market place for 150$ the only problem is there's only one and the tweeter voice coil was unwound and stuck in the gap. I bought another JA-0801 of Ebay and am planning to do a build around them. I already have in my possession a pair of JBL 127H-1's and 2 pairs of ribbon they are the Fountek NeoX 3 and NeoX 1. Ill probably use the NeoX 1's for the tweeters and the 127H-2's for the woofers.
T. Graveson has some measurements -- but with the original & his modified xover filters in place. Yamaha-NS1000 You're best off measuring the T/S of your own drivers anyway.
Yah I figured, I lent my Dayton Tester and never got it back. I'll just have to buy another one. When I get it tested Ill post them for everyone.
Also, should I mount the mid behind the baffle or can I mount the front the normal way and not have to worry about diffraction if I keep the same crossover point and slope?
If you do mount it behind, you'll want to route a smooth curve around the rim of the hole, sort of waveguide-like. You might have the advantage of getting the plane of the mid dome closer to that of the tweeter (for time alignment).
I'm planning to rebate & mount it from the front as in the original enclosure. The mid dome frame is very thick -- >10mm, around 7/16"! -- so I'll use at least a 1" thick baffle to keep it strong.
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