I'm going to be living in a 32' long 8' wide 8' tall travel trailer for a while and I'm going to strip the inside of the trailer to rebuild it in order to make it suitable for a speaker set-up.
With these dimensions what sort of layout, speaker size/configuration, treatments should I be using?
Some of this space will need to be partitioned for actual living but I intend to keep it minimal and low impact.
With these dimensions what sort of layout, speaker size/configuration, treatments should I be using?
Some of this space will need to be partitioned for actual living but I intend to keep it minimal and low impact.
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I think if it's more like a mobile RV, you are going to want to put them in-wall or in a fixed position in other words. If more of a stationary trailer, then you could have floorstanding or stand mounted speakers and not worry about them falling over.
But with the limited width, I think it might be a great place to corner mount them. Something like the Murphy Corner Arrays might be a great choice.
I would also set them up so the speakers are not on 1 of the side walls. Your listening distance and the distance behind your listening position will be greater this way.
But with the limited width, I think it might be a great place to corner mount them. Something like the Murphy Corner Arrays might be a great choice.
I would also set them up so the speakers are not on 1 of the side walls. Your listening distance and the distance behind your listening position will be greater this way.
Generally, speakers should be some distance away from the front wall. Your listening position should also be away from the back wall. When you've only got 8' to work with, that's not leaving you very much room between you and the speakers. Plus that short distance between walls means a potentially strong reflection between them too, albeit that can be mitigated with absorption panels.
But if you have the length-wise axis to work with, those limits don't exist anymore. The limiting or negative factor now is side wall reflections. That's why I think a corner array might be a good choice because it doesn't try to fight the reflections, it makes a positive use out of them.
But if you have the length-wise axis to work with, those limits don't exist anymore. The limiting or negative factor now is side wall reflections. That's why I think a corner array might be a good choice because it doesn't try to fight the reflections, it makes a positive use out of them.
Sorry, I don't know enough about that speaker to say yay or nay.
One thing to note I guess if you do go into the corners with them is that your are going to get some extra boost from the close boundaries so it's best if the speakers are designed for that or if you design them yourself for that placement. Or eq may be your friend in this circumstance.
One thing to note I guess if you do go into the corners with them is that your are going to get some extra boost from the close boundaries so it's best if the speakers are designed for that or if you design them yourself for that placement. Or eq may be your friend in this circumstance.
Hmm, a metal building with room dimensions divisible by 8....... the modes will be very strong, so mass quantities of damping is normally required if not already built-in.
Placing the speakers and listening position [LP] at the 32 ft's odd harmonics and ideally up high at an odd harmonic [physically and/or electronically] and angled down, toe'd in to 'steer' 1st reflections to the side/behind the [LP] to mimic a recording studio system is a proven option.
That, or configure a triangular shaped, somewhat near-field setup in one corner same as if you had an 8 x 8 ft 'cube' room to make 1st reflections happen to the side/behind the LP. This will randomize/'spread out' the reflections and allow wall positioning in a fairly compact space, with any absorbers normally going in the front 'V' corner and behind the LP.
Personally would use corner horns configured where the mids/HF horn and LP are at an odd harmonic.
Can't comment on the CBT, but a corner loaded 'infinite' array [at least 8 ft*0.707 long] would somewhat mimic a corner horn system.
GM
Placing the speakers and listening position [LP] at the 32 ft's odd harmonics and ideally up high at an odd harmonic [physically and/or electronically] and angled down, toe'd in to 'steer' 1st reflections to the side/behind the [LP] to mimic a recording studio system is a proven option.
That, or configure a triangular shaped, somewhat near-field setup in one corner same as if you had an 8 x 8 ft 'cube' room to make 1st reflections happen to the side/behind the LP. This will randomize/'spread out' the reflections and allow wall positioning in a fairly compact space, with any absorbers normally going in the front 'V' corner and behind the LP.
Personally would use corner horns configured where the mids/HF horn and LP are at an odd harmonic.
Can't comment on the CBT, but a corner loaded 'infinite' array [at least 8 ft*0.707 long] would somewhat mimic a corner horn system.
GM
Showing my age a bit! Regardless, newer construction is still rigid, undamped enough to tremendously impact a speaker system's performance.
What jReave said; use an on-line room mode calculator to get an idea of how much its peaks/nulls will 'EQ' a speaker system's response.
Re adjusting room dims, look up 'acceptable room ratios', though if you follow what I suggested this much work won't be necessary, though if you do, tapering the side and top walls > 12 deg to cause a rapid 'slap echo' decay like done in theaters, some studios is a better overall plan.
Anyway, this subject can be quite involved, so best to research music, recording, etc., room acoustics to decide on how much you're willing to do/pay for good-excellent room acoustics.
GM
Strong are the modes in this one.....
I have put a darkroom in a trailer about this size, and even cutting the bass while printing was not enough to avoid the enlarger vibrating till I got it just right.
Asymmetry is your friend here, so limit your boundary distance similarities to just speaker height.
And avoid the midpoint with that. If you have sit at the apex- type speakers, put the pair cattycorner, and seating to the side they face.
Then place cabinets etc so as to break up walls unevenly. I needed a wooden brace in the (near) middle of a picture window, dense foam strip against the glass.
Of course curtains, carpet, etc. You might enjoy singing in a bathroom, but only Louie,Louie might sound right. Of course, when dark I had the advantage of covered windows.
You listen till you find a problem, then adjust. You'll be really good at this when you're done.
I have some pictures somewhere, but only God knows where.
Anyway, it's a fun problem. One thing you won't need is a big amp. It will get loud easy.
of course, if you are captured, the secretary will disavow all knowledge of your actions.
I have put a darkroom in a trailer about this size, and even cutting the bass while printing was not enough to avoid the enlarger vibrating till I got it just right.
Asymmetry is your friend here, so limit your boundary distance similarities to just speaker height.
And avoid the midpoint with that. If you have sit at the apex- type speakers, put the pair cattycorner, and seating to the side they face.
Then place cabinets etc so as to break up walls unevenly. I needed a wooden brace in the (near) middle of a picture window, dense foam strip against the glass.
Of course curtains, carpet, etc. You might enjoy singing in a bathroom, but only Louie,Louie might sound right. Of course, when dark I had the advantage of covered windows.
You listen till you find a problem, then adjust. You'll be really good at this when you're done.
I have some pictures somewhere, but only God knows where.
Anyway, it's a fun problem. One thing you won't need is a big amp. It will get loud easy.
of course, if you are captured, the secretary will disavow all knowledge of your actions.
Therein lies the rub, you gain increased low end response, 90 deg directivity at the expense of lower, stronger, slower decaying modes, so now you have to create a true 'dead end', or at least highly diffusive, rear wall with side absorbers if not tapered.
Making the back wall "V" shaped or at least angled [preferably in both planes], worked well in the one time each I've done.
GM
Making the back wall "V" shaped or at least angled [preferably in both planes], worked well in the one time each I've done.
GM
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