first multi way speaker build help?!

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
I'm planning my first multi-way speaker build and I could use some expert guidance.

My idea is to have an open baffle with a midrange and tweeter, along with a subwoofer in a ported box to supplement the low end.

My tweeter is a Foster 49-1166 crossed at 5k with a 2nd order LR.

My midrange is Stephens Trusonic FR-80 crossed at 5k for the low pass and crossed at 150hz for the highpass completing the band pass. I was going to use this inductor

My woofer would be a Peerless woofer crossed at 150hz for the low pass. I was thinking of using the parts express 2nd order for this: Subwoofer Crossover 8 Ohm 150 Hz 200W - because it is affordable for me and has a 1st order highpass to midrange.

Does this seem like a doable configuration? Where am I off? Is it better to have a 4th order for the woofer? I've already put together the crossover for the tweeter and it seems to be working although I forgot about the phase shift in a second order.

I'd be grateful for any assistance.
 
music soothes the savage beast
Joined 2004
Paid Member
Go for it, sounds like a good plan. Lots of small details will play a role, like each speakers efficiency, resistance, baffle size, polarity of each driver, and so on...on the final outcome.
I prefer to measure fr response, phase and distortion for each band separately, then all together to make sure each band is in phase.
Some experts here design speakers without measuring, microphone shmicrophone, i am not that good, you do whatever you feels is best approach.
 
Hi, I 'd suggest a minimal series filter, since the midrange is very efficient ( 16 Ω).
I've used it many times and saves time & mind.
Values, as usual, vary and ranges can be 3-4 mH for the inductor and 2.2-4.7 uF for the capacitor
Cheers,
Tony
 

Attachments

  • minimal-series-filter.jpg
    minimal-series-filter.jpg
    27 KB · Views: 122
Hi, I 'd suggest a minimal series filter, since the midrange is very efficient ( 16 Ω).
I've used it many times and saves time & mind.
Values, as usual, vary and ranges can be 3-4 mH for the inductor and 2.2-4.7 uF for the capacitor
Cheers,
Tony

The Trusonic midrange is rated at 16ohms, but tested 8ohms. I'm not sure how that crossover you posted works? Won't all the drivers bleed into each other?
 
Go for it, sounds like a good plan. Lots of small details will play a role, like each speakers efficiency, resistance, baffle size, polarity of each driver, and so on...on the final outcome.
I prefer to measure fr response, phase and distortion for each band separately, then all together to make sure each band is in phase.
Some experts here design speakers without measuring, microphone shmicrophone, i am not that good, you do whatever you feels is best approach.

Thanks for the vote of confidence! I think I will heed all of those points in the process. I do have one question about one of the points you brought up concerning baffle size: do I need a large baffle for the OB drivers, in particular the midrange Trusonic fr80 if I cross it over at 150hz? I want to avoid the use of a baffle step for efficiency sake.
 
The Trusonic midrange is rated at 16ohms, but tested 8ohms. I'm not sure how that crossover you posted works? Won't all the drivers bleed into each other?
Just try. Don't forget to buy some coils & caps for that. You can leave the Stephens bare naked, the baffle ( and wings, perhaps) is useful to mount the woofer only since it does the "hard" work. Also the tweeter, it can be mounted beneath the wf and the tw. I prefer the woofer to be above all the other drivers as if well mounted away from the ceiling and the pavement it doesn't suffer from reflections or "integrations".
Try & report
:bigeyes:
 
This crossover provdes two degrees of freedom to match three different drive units together. Unless the drive units all have very wide flat response regions and are of very similar sensitivity you might struggle to get an effective alingment.

By all means give it a try but do not be dissapointed if you struggle to get good intergration.

As far as I can tell it works on the principal that the lf signal bypasses the tweeter via the inductor, the tweeter output and a band limited proportion of the LF signal passing throight the midrange return to ground via the capacitor, the remaing part of the lf signal returns to groung via the woofer.

It should provide basic band limiting to the drivers but achieving any kind of amplitude and phase match is going to be very difficult.
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.