Audyn Reference
Those are nice, highest grade for reasonable money limit.
They're bifilar, good for tweeter. Mechanically stable, good against microphonics.
Anything more expensive enters voodoo-level.
At max, id consider 2x1.5+2x1.8
or really crazy 10x0.68uF parallel to get the tolerance and resistance-loss further down.
I usually use 10 parallel. Gives xtreme left/right equality and super stereo stage.
Or, for really burning money, use 40x0.68, half parallel half serial to charge them with a 9Volt battery, so called class-A-bias.
But that change is more than subtle
This is a cheaper alternative:
Audyn Plus
In your case I would take 3x 1.5 and one 2.2 to get the right value.
Averaging of 4 is a good compromise. Especially that theyre hi-grade and preselected 2%.
The only disadvantage compared to the reference is the missing stabilization.
You could prevent the microphonics if you wrap that bunch of 4 tight together with tape or hot-liquid glue, into a soundproof box. Should be not much worse for 40 bucks, compared to above class-a bunch for 2000€
cheers
Josh
Those are nice, highest grade for reasonable money limit.
They're bifilar, good for tweeter. Mechanically stable, good against microphonics.
Anything more expensive enters voodoo-level.
At max, id consider 2x1.5+2x1.8
or really crazy 10x0.68uF parallel to get the tolerance and resistance-loss further down.
I usually use 10 parallel. Gives xtreme left/right equality and super stereo stage.
Or, for really burning money, use 40x0.68, half parallel half serial to charge them with a 9Volt battery, so called class-A-bias.
But that change is more than subtle
This is a cheaper alternative:
Audyn Plus
In your case I would take 3x 1.5 and one 2.2 to get the right value.
Averaging of 4 is a good compromise. Especially that theyre hi-grade and preselected 2%.
The only disadvantage compared to the reference is the missing stabilization.
You could prevent the microphonics if you wrap that bunch of 4 tight together with tape or hot-liquid glue, into a soundproof box. Should be not much worse for 40 bucks, compared to above class-a bunch for 2000€
cheers
Josh
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Mike - if you're looking for recommendations as to type / brand - no chance for controversy there - "what's your favorite flavor of Kool-Aid?"
Always been happy with the performance of Solen or Bennic metalized polypropylene or polyesters in crossovers. While I went through a bit of "boutique" stage with low signal level caps during my tube amp building days - Silver, Teflon etc, I'd find it hard to exhort others to get silly spendy - but it's your money.
Always been happy with the performance of Solen or Bennic metalized polypropylene or polyesters in crossovers. While I went through a bit of "boutique" stage with low signal level caps during my tube amp building days - Silver, Teflon etc, I'd find it hard to exhort others to get silly spendy - but it's your money.
My go to caps are:
Mundorf MKP - Inexpensive, dark, very good detail especially at lower volumes.
Clarity ESA/CMR - Esa is a little darker. CMR perfectly transparent.
Mundorf Silver in Oil - Transparent, but also scintillating, oversaturating of color at the top octaves. It's not unpleasant, in fact it is quite seductive, but it is not what music sounds like in real life. MOST listeners really like it, I personally do not.
I also really like the Audyn True Copper foil series as bypass caps, especially around larger Clarity caps. They add some warmth.
Best,
Erik
Mundorf MKP - Inexpensive, dark, very good detail especially at lower volumes.
Clarity ESA/CMR - Esa is a little darker. CMR perfectly transparent.
Mundorf Silver in Oil - Transparent, but also scintillating, oversaturating of color at the top octaves. It's not unpleasant, in fact it is quite seductive, but it is not what music sounds like in real life. MOST listeners really like it, I personally do not.
I also really like the Audyn True Copper foil series as bypass caps, especially around larger Clarity caps. They add some warmth.
Best,
Erik
Yes, something with a bit more "meat" in the presentation.
Also consider the Obbligato Gold for cap's to be bypassed with the True Copper from Audyn. (..or for a bit more the Jantzen Z-Superior instead of the Obbligato.)
Thanks for everyones input. Currently using mark audio alpar 10 for midbass and Dayton metalized cap ( cheap) for tweeter cap. Frankly only been using for a few days and sounds very good. Parts Express had the HIVI tweeters on sale so I ordered them with several values of cheap caps to try. The 6.8uf is the first value I tried and have not wanted to try the others. I was doing some listening today and may need to pad down the tweeter a little but not much. hard to tell may have been a hot recording. The alpar is rated at 89 db and the HIVI is rated at 94 db. Not sure if the cap causes db losses in the tweeter and have only my ears to measure. I'm 60 and know my hearing is not what it used to be. I will have to look thru my junk box to see if I have a variable resistor to play with. Even the bass seems to have improved with the addition of the tweeters. Possibly the amp sees a better load now. Of course the audiophile in me always wants to look for better. I don't want to spend stupid money. So glad I did this. Music sounds so good on this now. Fun to listen again.
Mike
Mike
Using the Alpar 10 as a midbass. Bought the HIVI tweeter from Parts express with some cheap Dayton caps. to try. The combo sounds very good but only been listening for a few days. May need to pad down the tweeters a small amount. The alpars are 89db and the HIVI are 94db. Not sure if the caps on the tweeters drop the output any. Only got my 60 year old ears to measure. Maybe I just listened to a few hot recordings today. Still I love the sound I'm getting now. Enjoying music again. My 2a3 amp drives these just fine. Don't listen to crazy levels anymore. Thanks for every ones input.
..paper and poly or just poly?
-and how do both compare with the same value in the Audyn Copper range?
(..price on the poly-only looks very tempting in a bypass.)
Humble Homemade Hifi - Cap Test
Clarity ESA / CSA - CSA is better (more expensive) - good cap
Audyn Plus - I feel nothing special about it, CSA is better
Jantzen Superior Z - one of the best, musical
Mundorf Supreme - clean, my favourite
I used all of them, if you have budget go for the Mundorf.
S
Clarity ESA / CSA - CSA is better (more expensive) - good cap
Audyn Plus - I feel nothing special about it, CSA is better
Jantzen Superior Z - one of the best, musical
Mundorf Supreme - clean, my favourite
I used all of them, if you have budget go for the Mundorf.
S
"Originally Posted by Bill poster View Post
And bypass w/ a 0.1uf Miflex copper.."
This is the easiest way to ruin a good cap. Not so chritical in the midrange but please not in the top. If you have to use moore than one cap then use 100% identical caps so that the signal will sum up perfectly.
Btw, I like to use 3 or 4 identical caps in parallell to reduce dynamic compression or loss.
And bypass w/ a 0.1uf Miflex copper.."
This is the easiest way to ruin a good cap. Not so chritical in the midrange but please not in the top. If you have to use moore than one cap then use 100% identical caps so that the signal will sum up perfectly.
Btw, I like to use 3 or 4 identical caps in parallell to reduce dynamic compression or loss.
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