2-Way Passive Crossover Speaker Design my first DIY.

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Hello to everyone! :wave:

I am completely new to the DIY audio scene, and I would
like to request some help/assistance with my first project.
So if you see anything wrong with my design, please feel
free to tell, and if you have any suggestions they are greatly
appreciated!!!

A little information about my project

I am aiming to build a pair of high-fidelity 2-way speakers.
I wouldn't really call them "Bookshelf", as they will be around
double the size of a conventional Bookshelf speaker. I am
aiming to keep the price per enclosure around €150.

I have attached a Passive Crossover Designer 7 File, along
with FRD, and ZMA for both drivers.

The parts I have selected for this project:
  • Drivers
    1. Tweeter - Dayton Audio ND25FA-4 1"
    2. Woofer - Dayton Audio RS150P-4 6" Reference
  • High-pass
    1. Crossover Freq. - 3200Hz
    2. Crossover dB - 90.0
    3. Filter (Third-order):
      1. 11.00 uF Capacitor, 0 Ohm Series
      2. 0.15 mH Inductor, 0.98 Ohm DCR
      3. 12.50 uF Capacitor, 0 Ohm Series
    4. Series components:
      • Before Cross-over (RL Contour Filter):
        • 0.13 mH Inductor
        • 0.14 Ohm DCR
      • After Cross-over (RC Contour Filter):
        • 2.50 uF Capacitor
        • 3.50 Ohm Parallel
    5. Parallel components:
      • Zobel:
        • 0.50 uF
        • 6.00 Ohm Series
      • Series RLC:
        • 0.27 mH Inductor
        • 10.00 uF Capacitor
        • 4.00 Ohm Series
  • Low-pass
    1. Crossover Freq. - 3200Hz
    2. Crossover dB - 90.0
    3. Filter (Third-order):
      1. 0.30 uF Capacitor, 0.13 Ohm Series
      2. 18.00 mH Inductor, 1.00 Ohm DCR
      3. 0.20 uF Capacitor, 0.10 Ohm Series
    4. Series components:
      • Before Cross-over (RL Contour Filter):
        • 0.13 mH Inductor
        • 0.14 Ohm DCR
      • After Cross-over (Series Resistor):
        • 1.80 Ohm
    5. Parallel components:
      • Zobel:
        • 30.00 uF
        • 3.00 Ohm Series

Thank you for your input! :D

Christian
 

Attachments

  • PSD Files.zip
    15.4 KB · Views: 51
That's a lot of unnecessary parts there. And the LP component values are incorrect. 3.2k is at the limit for the rs150p. The nd25 can go lower and I would.

Questions:
Did you account for baffle step compensation? Did you enter data for x,y, and z axis? Are your files measured or simmed? Are the files minimum phase?
 
Questions:
Did you account for baffle step compensation? Did you enter data for x,y, and z axis? Are your files measured or simmed? Are the files minimum phase?

  1. Im not quite sure what baffle step compensation is, I'll do some research on it and I'll try to apply it. I'll come back and show my conclusion. For reference what would you suggest?
  2. The files are minimum phase. I didn't enter X,y,z axes as I am not sure about my cabinet design yet.

Sorry for being so oblivious to this subject, this is my first DIY design after all :eek:.
As for the redundancies, I'll find some time to sit down and go through the circuit diagrams and try to simplify it.

Thank you so much for your input!
Christian
 
  1. Im not quite sure what baffle step compensation is, I'll do some research on it and I'll try to apply it. I'll come back and show my conclusion. For reference what would you suggest?
  2. The files are minimum phase. I didn't enter X,y,z axes as I am not sure about my cabinet design yet.

Sorry for being so oblivious to this subject, this is my first DIY design after all :eek:.
As for the redundancies, I'll find some time to sit down and go through the circuit diagrams and try to simplify it.

Thank you so much for your input!
Christian

No need to apologize. There is a learning curve for this hobby after all.
1) Google will get you much of the information for understanding what baffle step is and how to compensate for it. Without it, the bass will seem weak and the highs "hot".
2) without the x,y, and z axis points entered, the crossover will not he accurate. This will effect the phase alignment of the drivers.
 
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