OK I'm a newbie, but I was born with a set of ears about 50 years ago. This all started when I moved the current system and stole my kids amp/speakers and combined the systems. Current stuff is a couple of Adcom amps, a Nikko preamp, a couple of decent JBL's studio's and a couple of Klipsch tower's. The most noticable thing was the sound when the Klipsch's were mounted on the JBL's. The sound was vastly improved. That being said, and not wanting to screw them together (they'll walk right off), I started to investigate line array speakers.
Well, I've done my archive search. So here's the current status. Today I purchased about 60 of those close out Pioneer 269-568 extended range 4" drivers (http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/269-568.pdf). They're about a buck and a half by the time they get here. My thoughts are to build 2 speakers (~ 12-16 drivers per speaker) and then use the balance in a second set somewhere else. My listening room is 16'w x 8.5'h x 26' long. I'll most likely drive them with the Adcom 5500 that's about 200w/c @ 8 and 300 @ 4. So now I need a low end and a top end. For the low end I'm thinking about using the JBL's or stealing the last remaining item from my son (he's in the Navy), a powered sub.
What I need:
1. A tweeter solution, cheap pricing to match the extended drivers price point. Goldwoods? Pioneers? This solution will clearly impact the enclosure design, so I will need to know the numbers of tweeters to install in each speaker.
2. Enclosure ideas. Open vs. closed? Baffled?
3. Advice on the face layout of the speaker enclosures. Specifically, the location of the tweeters relative to floor.
4. Your suggested crossover frequencies for the extended range/tweeter circuit.
What I have:
1. a best friend who works in a cabinet shop. I need only supply rudimentary dimensions and decide on the the veneer.
2. an ability to read electronic schematics, buy components, and solder.
3. A machine shop.
Lastly, this is not a pie in the sky project. Your advice and recommendations will not be wasted.
Thank you in advance!
Well, I've done my archive search. So here's the current status. Today I purchased about 60 of those close out Pioneer 269-568 extended range 4" drivers (http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/269-568.pdf). They're about a buck and a half by the time they get here. My thoughts are to build 2 speakers (~ 12-16 drivers per speaker) and then use the balance in a second set somewhere else. My listening room is 16'w x 8.5'h x 26' long. I'll most likely drive them with the Adcom 5500 that's about 200w/c @ 8 and 300 @ 4. So now I need a low end and a top end. For the low end I'm thinking about using the JBL's or stealing the last remaining item from my son (he's in the Navy), a powered sub.
What I need:
1. A tweeter solution, cheap pricing to match the extended drivers price point. Goldwoods? Pioneers? This solution will clearly impact the enclosure design, so I will need to know the numbers of tweeters to install in each speaker.
2. Enclosure ideas. Open vs. closed? Baffled?
3. Advice on the face layout of the speaker enclosures. Specifically, the location of the tweeters relative to floor.
4. Your suggested crossover frequencies for the extended range/tweeter circuit.
What I have:
1. a best friend who works in a cabinet shop. I need only supply rudimentary dimensions and decide on the the veneer.
2. an ability to read electronic schematics, buy components, and solder.
3. A machine shop.
Lastly, this is not a pie in the sky project. Your advice and recommendations will not be wasted.
Thank you in advance!
4" drivers means that u can run to about 3k before interference sets in. i suspect if you prefer a laid back sound that u can use these drivers till about 5k if their freq. resp. curve is smooth.
there are 2 choices fo you.
use 17 drivers. 16 4" in series parallel (wire them in 4 sets of series and parallel the 4 sets) to obtain the same impedance as one driver these 16 drivers are your BSC. The 17th driver is run fullrange and XOs into the tweeter.
alternately you can omit the 17th driver and run all 16 fullrange to about 5k. the possible configurations are WWWW WWWW mt WWWW WWWW or WWWW WWWW t WWWW WWWW where m and W are both the same driver just XOed differently.
if you have a box that is about 6" wide and 10" deep with no back you should be able to run this system to about 150Hz before the back wave cancels out the front. a sub below 120Hz will cover the rest.
2nd choice is to go push push. 4 sets of 4 drivers. 2 sets in the front 2 in the rear. the tweeter goes between the 2 sets in the front. so you have WWWW t WWWW in the front and WWWW WWWW in the rear.
what you need is a tweeter that is as senstive or 3db more sensitive than the pioneer.
there are 2 choices fo you.
use 17 drivers. 16 4" in series parallel (wire them in 4 sets of series and parallel the 4 sets) to obtain the same impedance as one driver these 16 drivers are your BSC. The 17th driver is run fullrange and XOs into the tweeter.
alternately you can omit the 17th driver and run all 16 fullrange to about 5k. the possible configurations are WWWW WWWW mt WWWW WWWW or WWWW WWWW t WWWW WWWW where m and W are both the same driver just XOed differently.
if you have a box that is about 6" wide and 10" deep with no back you should be able to run this system to about 150Hz before the back wave cancels out the front. a sub below 120Hz will cover the rest.
2nd choice is to go push push. 4 sets of 4 drivers. 2 sets in the front 2 in the rear. the tweeter goes between the 2 sets in the front. so you have WWWW t WWWW in the front and WWWW WWWW in the rear.
what you need is a tweeter that is as senstive or 3db more sensitive than the pioneer.
I recently built a curved open baffle line array with 18 of thse drivers per side (6 groups consisting of three in parallel runin series to give 16ohms) , run full-range... I curved the line array just right so that in my room at my listening distance all the drivers were equa-distant from your ears, which eliminates the problem of HF cancellation. Baffle was about 18" wide, which got bass down to about 125hz or so. Sound was pretty good in the sweet-spot, but HF cancellation became a real issue if you were vertically out of the sweet spot. I spend a lot of time listening out of the sweet-spot, so the speakers are not currently being used in my system. In a situation where they were going to be exclusively used when you're actally sitting down listening, they'd be pretty nice...
Peace
Peace
chipco3434 said:
60 pieces? wimp...
They're boxed 32 to a case, why not 64?..
I bought four cases, 128 pieces..gonna make a 12 by 5 pair..
Cylindrical in shape..12 high..
For tweets, I bought 200 of the 3/4 domes from parts express.
I'll run a row of 24 tweets in between each row of 12 woofs..96 tweets per panel.
Closed box, not worried about deep bass.
Don't yet know xover.
I'll wire to pull about 600 watts from my rmx 1450.
Spacings? don't know, I'm just building them to reduce spl near field, as they are intended for side fill in an auditoriom..
I'll post pics when I start..
Cheers, John
Guess I'm not the only one who jumped on that bandwagon....
I've got about 40 of these as well....
My plans were a simple open baffle array, about 15-20" wide. That should get the bass response down far enough where a subwoofer can cleanly pick up the rest. As for the top end, after giving these drivers a good audition, they surprisingly extend pretty far up. I dont see any real need for a tweeter, per se, but they could certianly benefit from a super tweeter. I had though about just letting them run full range with no xover network, and simply augmenting them with an equal number of small 3/4" dome tweeters running from about 10-12k and up with a simple first order crossover.
I've got about 40 of these as well....
My plans were a simple open baffle array, about 15-20" wide. That should get the bass response down far enough where a subwoofer can cleanly pick up the rest. As for the top end, after giving these drivers a good audition, they surprisingly extend pretty far up. I dont see any real need for a tweeter, per se, but they could certianly benefit from a super tweeter. I had though about just letting them run full range with no xover network, and simply augmenting them with an equal number of small 3/4" dome tweeters running from about 10-12k and up with a simple first order crossover.
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