I decided to upgrade the caps and wiring in my Coral CX-5 speakers, they are beautiful 3 ways in lovely timber look cabinets.
I used different gauage wires to the controls of the tweeter and mid? I cant see that being the issue
, unless i made a mistake? or the controls are broken
I used W22 resistors, as there were too many for my usual favoruite the Vishay RCH series.
I used different gauage wires to the controls of the tweeter and mid? I cant see that being the issue
, unless i made a mistake? or the controls are brokenI used W22 resistors, as there were too many for my usual favoruite the Vishay RCH series.
Thanks Allen for the reply and help. I was worried as i used different gauge wire for the controls - orange for the tweeter control 20awg and 24x2 solidcore for the tweeter
It must be a mistake here is a rough drawing i made prior to working on the crossover. I coudlve made a mistake least the xover is mostly intact outside the box
It must be a mistake here is a rough drawing i made prior to working on the crossover. I coudlve made a mistake least the xover is mostly intact outside the box
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The resistance of wire is related as much to its width as its length. Wires have a current carrying limit where the gauge will result in it getting hot, but this is rarely an issue with this kind of wiring. If you look up the resistance of copper, it takes a great length to equal even a tenth of eight ohms.
I can't quite work out what is going on in this picture. What would be more helpful is a schematic. At the least might you show both sides of the boards and the destination of each end of the wires so a schematic could be worked out?
I can't quite work out what is going on in this picture. What would be more helpful is a schematic. At the least might you show both sides of the boards and the destination of each end of the wires so a schematic could be worked out?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thank you
Underneath of the pcb least shows where the solder was, least I know its not the wire but a fault on my part.
I can try to work out a schematic of the underneath vs the top I wish it was basic like my JBLs - Coral has so many componets
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thanks Allen
lastest picture with the markings of where everything goes, will test this one before installing in speaker this time around
lol true, been checking my CD75MK2 teeth
, but I think the issue is the belt
OK, correct me if I'm wrong here. There's a resistor leading from the positive input to a capacitor. At the other side of this connects the (so called top connection of the) control, as well as an inductor which goes to the negative terminal. The 'lower' connection of the control goes through another resistor to the negative terminal, and the 'tap' of the control goes to the tweeter +.
Do you have a multimeter?
Do you have a multimeter?
Morning Allen,
Yes the +ve input, the resistor 0.5ohm does lead to the tweeter cap. I have put black lines to mark the resistors direction
I have a jaycar multimeter, it has a few things, like ohm volts etc, not capacitance
Yes the +ve input, the resistor 0.5ohm does lead to the tweeter cap. I have put black lines to mark the resistors direction
I have a jaycar multimeter, it has a few things, like ohm volts etc, not capacitance
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Morning.
When you had the control out did you measure it top to bottom, and look at the tap as you changed it?
I would poke around with a resistance measurement. For example, from the in+ to the tw+ you should measure nothing due to the capacitor. Disconnect the tweeter and measure between the tw+ and tw-, with the control all the way up you should be measuring the resistance of the inductor. With the control all the way down you should be measuring the second resistor in parallel with the control resistance. With it half way you should be measuring less than half the control's total resistance.
When you had the control out did you measure it top to bottom, and look at the tap as you changed it?
I would poke around with a resistance measurement. For example, from the in+ to the tw+ you should measure nothing due to the capacitor. Disconnect the tweeter and measure between the tw+ and tw-, with the control all the way up you should be measuring the resistance of the inductor. With the control all the way down you should be measuring the second resistor in parallel with the control resistance. With it half way you should be measuring less than half the control's total resistance.
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Morning Allen
Sorry the late reply was finishing recapping my P990 cd player.
Thanks
I measured the cable length when they controls were in the board, the taps i wrote in niko y b and r ( colours of the orginal cable). I wonder if the resistors i am using will be too bright also, main thing is the control
what do i set the mulimeter to ohms? I will first check if I have made an error with the complete crossover that was in one of the speakers
Sorry the late reply was finishing recapping my P990 cd player.
Thanks
I measured the cable length when they controls were in the board, the taps i wrote in niko y b and r ( colours of the orginal cable). I wonder if the resistors i am using will be too bright also, main thing is the control
what do i set the mulimeter to ohms? I will first check if I have made an error with the complete crossover that was in one of the speakers
Hey MaccAu,
Wires are one of the most fussed about but relatively unimportant things. They should be chosen to be easy to work with, to handle vibration/weathering, insulated for the voltage, designed for the high frequencies (when working with radio frequencies), and enough not to melt. Hardly any of this is a worry with speakers.
Yes, you should use the ohm setting. Touch the probes together to confirm a 0 reading, you might see 0.1, that's ok. Hold the probes with your fingers, familiarise yourself with the high resistance reading that comes from this, change your grip. It's usually OK to be touching the probes of an ohm-meter while measuring low resistance [you might do this if you have a resistor out of circuit, powered circuits should be respected like a loaded gun] but better to have at least one probe free for higher resistance measurements.
Wires are one of the most fussed about but relatively unimportant things. They should be chosen to be easy to work with, to handle vibration/weathering, insulated for the voltage, designed for the high frequencies (when working with radio frequencies), and enough not to melt. Hardly any of this is a worry with speakers.
Yes, you should use the ohm setting. Touch the probes together to confirm a 0 reading, you might see 0.1, that's ok. Hold the probes with your fingers, familiarise yourself with the high resistance reading that comes from this, change your grip. It's usually OK to be touching the probes of an ohm-meter while measuring low resistance [you might do this if you have a resistor out of circuit, powered circuits should be respected like a loaded gun] but better to have at least one probe free for higher resistance measurements.
If you have some de-soldering wick you could use that to mop up excess solder at suspected bridge points. Then, as suggested, run a sharp blade across to cut any fine bridges.
(Old Corals rock!)
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