Seas 22TFF H1280 Tweeter

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Keilau, I wonder why you're not considering the similar metal dome version SEAS 22TAF/G? I'm sure Spendor have their reasons for using the 22TFF, but I can't think of a good one.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Everybody really likes the SEAS 22TAF/G. Even Joachim Gerhard:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Any filter that works with the metal 22TAF/G is going to work with the soft dome 22TFF IMO, being so similar. But the metal dome is going to like a 7.5R and 0.68uF Zobel IMO. Just sounds smoother.

DIY-Loudspeakers

Can't help you with the FRD and ZMA files. But I don't think it's that hard.
 
re:"reasons for using the 22TFF" - they're cheap, have wide dispersion, & sound good, relatively easy to cross over.
cons - don't like too much power at the low end
currently using these in my main system, & have no desire to change, even though I have more expensive tweeters available...
cheers,
 
Keilau, I wonder why you're not considering the similar metal dome version SEAS 22TAF/G? I'm sure Spendor have their reasons for using the 22TFF, but I can't think of a good one.

Everybody really likes the SEAS 22TAF/G. Even Joachim Gerhard:

Any filter that works with the metal 22TAF/G is going to work with the soft dome 22TFF IMO, being so similar. But the metal dome is going to like a 7.5R and 0.68uF Zobel IMO. Just sounds smoother.

DIY-Loudspeakers.

I am looking to upgrade the tweeters on 3 Wharfedale M-138 and M-128. I want the replacement to fit the exsisting recess hole. Either of them should work for me. The TFF is cheaper and I don't need to worry about taming the high frequency resonance. It is not a final decision until I order.

Can't help you with the FRD and ZMA files. But I don't think it's that hard.

I have created a few FRD/ZMA from printed curves. But I don't really enjoy the process.

Roman Bednarek used the SEAS 22TAF/G for his Microbe SE project, but there is no FRD/ZMA for the tweeter at his Audiofiles page.
 
I created the FRD/ZMA files from the manufacturer's curve for Seas 22TFF H1280.

graph_h1280_22tff.jpg H1280-curve.jpg

It should be very easy to modify for 22TAF/G.
 
It's no surprise you prefer them to more expensive tweeters. I feel the same about my 22TAF/Gs.

Do you mind to share your experience with the Seas?

I grew up with the like of Audax 12x9D25 and Seas H107 soft domes. They were very popular in the 1970-80 and were used in many highly respected boxes including the Spica TC50, Black Dahlia and the Larry Hughes bookshelf DIY that I built. I cannot image paying much more than I paid then, adjusted for inflation.

The Seas 22TFF is on its way. I have not been able to tried that yet.
 
An update on this thread

I have been living with the Seas 22TFF for 2 months. I ordered it because it was in stock at Madisound then and the Seas 22TAF/G was not.

The crossover and PCD sim is shown below. The ARTA measurement showed the simulation to work very well. The in room measurement caused the treble drop-off above about 5KHz.

xover_Wharfedale_peerless-seas.jpg response_wharfedale-Seas_p-2.gif response_arta_138-peerless-seas.jpg

Eventually, I also order the Seas 22TAF/G. I installed it wihout touching the crossover. It sound very well too. In fact, I can hardly tell which tweeter is being used in typical listening. Yes, there are difference when I listen carefully. But I cannot say which tweeter I like better. For now, the 22TAF/G stays. (No other reason other than too lazy to change it back.)
 
Very similar to my two way L18 / 22TAF/G.

The bass x/o is quite complex in order to eliminate a 400-500hz room hump.

Zulh, not having the experience you have in speaker design, my crossover is a slight mod from the original Wharfedale M-138 one. For all practical purpose, the M-138 is a knock-off of the TDL G30, made in China. It is 7" MTM with aperiodic cabinet. I added cabinet wall damping using the 3M 08840 Sound Deadening Pads. (Expensive but very effective and easy to use)

The measured null around 450 Hz seems to be room node effect, not heard or measured at my normal listening seat.

The mod to the crossover included adding the woofer zobel network. The tweeter coil increased from 0.22 to 0.35 mH. I also recap with all film capacitors, but no change in values. The crossover seem to work well.

I will add some pictures later today.
 
It's fascinating how different rooms are. Each of the three rooms I've had speakers in require different equalisation. The smallest of my rooms is close to accepting a flat response whereas the large living/dining room has massive rise 400-500hz and a very narrow, very deep suckout at 50hz for which there is no cure.
 
The cabinet is 34"Hx13"Dx8"W with very sturdy construction. It is a variation of the aperiodic design with dense stuffing behind the foam plug.

wharfedale138_peerless-seas_small.jpg Wharfedale138cabinet.jpg

The original got a pair of Wharfedale 1274 woofers and an unmarked tweeter. The mod get a pair of Peerless HDS 850460 and the Seas 22TAF/G. Better sound and much, much improved power handling.
 
Last edited:
Hi, about 22taf / g I can replace it with the 22tff in the 5 "project with ca15rly of troels? And eventually what should I change in the crossover filter thanks. Regards Gilardi Rome italy
In the case of the Wharfedale M-138 mod, I found the Seas 22TAF/G and 22TFF to be drop-in replaceable. The crossover point of the Troels Gravesen's design is high enough to be the same as my experience. However, a simulation of the crossover with both tweeter is always advisable.

The 2 tweeter are very similar electrically, but not identical. The Seas 22TAF/G is 1 dB higher in sensitivity and 50 Hz higher in resonant frequency. If you are sensitive to SPL matching, you may want to lower the padding resistor (R1011, 5 ohms) slightly, 1-2 ohm, and judge the result by ears.
 
Last edited:
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.