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Do you dampen a Uframe?
Do you dampen a Uframe?
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Old 28th July 2015, 03:27 AM   #11
kimmosto is offline kimmosto  Finland
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I'm clearly biased towards super-cardioid bass due to good experiences in several houses and flat apartments. It is possible to get better response with dipole but it's not very likely and easy. Super...hyper-cardioid is quite insensitive to source location though cannot eliminate lowest axial room mode if room has massive & reflective rear wall. Weakest features of cardioid in practice are low efficiency (leaking box) and required volume (dipole+boxed combination). In many cases front wall and corner reflections boost mid-bass with dipoles, but this gain is not available with cardioid. Fortunately weak front reflections improve integration of bass and mid-range.
I wouldn't consider damped U-frame (with solid side walls) because cardioid band is too narrow. Whole bass range should be super...hyper-cardioid in order to make valid selection of source type. Without adequate damping it's just a bad dipole.
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Old 28th July 2015, 04:11 AM   #12
keyser is offline keyser  Netherlands
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I've been planning to build a U-frame. From what I've heard, it's difficult to get it right, but it seems nobody's ever documented and shared the optimization on the basis of clean far-field measurements with sufficient frequency resolution. I'm very curious how well an optimized U-frame performs, especially in comparison with a box with side-vents.
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Old 28th July 2015, 05:21 PM   #13
kimmosto is offline kimmosto  Finland
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I would make U-frame with leaking (=resistive) side walls to reduce problems due to solid transmission line. Leakage should help tuning because damping alone doesn't have to do everything. Partial side port may also extend usable frequency range until upper bass. "Cardioid bass" is worthless without cardioid upper bass, imo.
Cardioid pattern close to near field is valuable in practice. Otherwise front wall and corners may boost rear port signal.
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