Totem Rainmaker tweeter replacement

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Gary, I think you should 'phone Totem up! :)

Just explain you have to watch the $Ca on this.

Me, I think woofers are woofers, but would always dissect the crossover to be sure. If it fits, it probably works. Or I can get it to work.

But tell us how you get on. I hate threads that never find a solution. Engineers fix things. It's what they do. AFAIK, this is why they go to Heaven. Lawyers, I'm not so sure. :D
 
Maybe better to build something with SB, Scan, ...
I would call people at Solen in Montreal for suitable replacement if Totem uses of shelf Seas, or other drivers. Also please remember 5.25" driver has limited power handling and can't reproduce real bass - this days when a lot of popular music is overbassed and compressed it's easy to blow even the best driver.
 
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GR research have M-130x woofer
M130X Woofer

Size identical as rainmaker's woofer,
Specs are very close, review is very good too
Looks like best option so far!

Pawel I am in Ottawa too, Any idea how many TOTEM dealers in Ottawa
or I have to go to Montreal,
I sent few emails to TOTEM,
reply was "find closest dealer in your location"!!!


M-130x better way
Rainmakers specs
voltage sensitivity, at an estimated 86.5dB(B)/2.83V/m
M-130x specs
voltage sensitivity 87.844 db
M-130
voltage sensitivity 89.9 db


GR M-130X
physically
Looks identical inside and out as TOTEM's rainmakers!
May be same woofers!!!!!


TOTEM SPECS from websire
voltage sensitivity 87.5 dB

GR M-130x
voltage sensitivity 87.844 db
$102 US shipped - 2 woofers
 
DC resistance of the voicecoil. You can often measure it directly across the speaker terminals with no amp or speaker cables plugged in. We could know the originals impedance to be more accurate. Nominal 4 or 8 ohms.

It's not a showstopper changing the speaker impedance, but better to match it for the drop in replacement. Nominal 4 ohms is usually 3 ohm resistance at DC. Nominal 8 ohms is usually around 6 ohms DC.

This done with a simple multimeter on resistance scale. You touch the test probes on the meter to start with to assess any resistance built into the leads.

That and measure the magnet diameter and I think we'll know where we are.

Seems the Peerless unit is a bit rougher on frequency response, breaking up above 4kHz, whereas the GR's are very smooth to 10kHz.
 
I measured DCR 3.7 ohms
so M130x on web site stated 5.51 ohms
Is it good replace or 5.51 ohms not compatible with 3.7 ohms?

FS 50 Hz
RE 5.51 ohms
Qms 3.664
Qts .409
Qes .460
Xmax 7.8 mm each way
L (1k) .763 mH
L (10k) .324 mH
Vas 14.194 Liters
Ms
8.849 grams

Cms 1118.644 mm/newt
Bl 5.805 Tesla-M
SPL 87.844 db
Area 95.05 sq cm
 
Everything I am seeing suggests the 4 ohm 90dB Peerless India M13NH-04 is the Totem driver!

http://www.peerlessaudio.com/uploadfiles/pdf/M13NH%20Multilayered%20Cone.pdf

The PDF I found matches the response in Stereophile, down to the troublesome breakup at 6kHz.

The M130X is a a much tidier nominal 8 ohm driver also at 90dB. Not much breakup. The bass filter will probably work unchanged, Just a bit underdamped. You might add an ohm or two to the shunt.
M130 Woofer

It's uncannily like the the M13NH-08:
https://www.diyaudiocart.com/image/data/speakers/peerless/M13NH-08/M13NH-08.pdf

The GR driver can be made to work, Simple second order crossover. IMO. Just a question of shipping and convenience what you go for.
 
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Nevermind, I managed to take the grill apart and now I can clean the plastic dot.

To remove the grill, one simply has to claw it firmly with the nails and pull outwards with some force. Taking the tweeter out helps with leverage.

avVysyh.jpg
 
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Removing the grille looks tricky to me, but actually diffusors don't do much.

Hi @system7, sorry to bother you again.

So, as you can see from above, I managed to remove the darned grill. But, after cleaning it, I'm failing to glue the plastic diffusor/dot back in a clean manner. Superglue reacted with something and created a black stain. After one hour cleaning it, I tried regular white glue, but it dried "cloudy" and ugly, not transparent.

If I simply removed the "dot" altogether and kept the grill, how much of a difference is expected on FR and dispersion? Removing the grill itself makes the speaker very ugly :p Unfortunately, I don't have the means to measure things right now.

All I want is a clean looking tweeter grill and (audibly) unaffected sound.

Thanks for your time
 
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I have to confess that my own interest in this whole loudspeaker game is mainly derived from the whole "Quantum Field Theory" or what we call "QFT". :D

TBH, QFT is the right Theory. I grew up with Dick Feynman on Physics in the the 1950's. After Einstein, Dick just nailed it. He always sought simplicity.

Most of you folks have never heard of Sidney Coleman:

Quantum Mechanics in Your Face

What Sidney proved with "Quantum Mechanics in your Face" is (Newton's) Classical Mechanics just doesn't work in the real World. It's a Quantum Mechanical World.

No surprise that Lenny Susskind, Sidney Coleman and Dick Feynman were great friends:

My friend Richard Feynman

TBH, the current controversy in the Physics and Mathematical World is whether String Theory or Standard Model "QFT" is right. I have no idea! :D

Interestingly, Cohl Furey has come up with an 8 dimensional (octonion) model of fundamental particles which just might nail the whole thing: Cohl Furey on the Octonions and Particle Physics.

Meanwhile we just try to get our 2-D Clifford Algebras playing music sufferably well. I'd try polystyrene glue on that diffusor plate. As pure Chemistry, we try to glue metal to plastic. :cool:
 
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