The boxes are pretty but the sound is pretty bad and no amount of capacitor upgrading is going to help.
So, with the following specs, have you any suggestions of components that might fit the bill to create a 'good' performing speaker in a lovely box or are these doomed to be sidetables?
10" woofer
4" midrange
0.5" horn tweeter
25.25 x 145/8 x 12.25"
Thanks.
So, with the following specs, have you any suggestions of components that might fit the bill to create a 'good' performing speaker in a lovely box or are these doomed to be sidetables?
10" woofer
4" midrange
0.5" horn tweeter
25.25 x 145/8 x 12.25"
Thanks.
Attachments
The recessed baffle is no good: diffraction from the edges of the panels; the grill also.
rounded edges is the answer.
The speakers are put there to occupy the space available; they should be mounted vertically on axys, for easeness of the ears/brain reconstruction of the "sound image".
The crossover contributes in the definition of the emission, so a picture or schematic would help.
It's just acquiring some basic learning of how the thing works and don't matter of how economic or old the speakers are, if put in the right conditions they'll do their job.
rounded edges is the answer.
The speakers are put there to occupy the space available; they should be mounted vertically on axys, for easeness of the ears/brain reconstruction of the "sound image".
The crossover contributes in the definition of the emission, so a picture or schematic would help.
It's just acquiring some basic learning of how the thing works and don't matter of how economic or old the speakers are, if put in the right conditions they'll do their job.
These are very nice vintage drivers with alnico magnets and cloth surrounds. Replacing them will not gonna be easy, because they are rear mounted and finding new drivers which do fit mechanically and electrically might get very difficult and expensive.
I assume the sound quality of the speakers could be improved significantly by a better crossover. However, since no data of the drivers are available, you would need to measure the impedance curve of every single driver first. The midrange obviously is a sealed back driver and this kind of driver certainly needs a better crossover to perform well.
I assume the sound quality of the speakers could be improved significantly by a better crossover. However, since no data of the drivers are available, you would need to measure the impedance curve of every single driver first. The midrange obviously is a sealed back driver and this kind of driver certainly needs a better crossover to perform well.
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Thank you gentlemen. I'll do some further research and see if I can find information on the drivers. Sadly I am not well versed in how to measure the impedance curve of a driver so I'll look into how that is done and then decide if I can do it.
Otherwise, "Monkey Coffins" seems like a decent plan
Otherwise, "Monkey Coffins" seems like a decent plan
If you actually can stand the looks of them the sky's the limit for cheap mods. What's your standard for 'good'?
How about as a pair of subs?
Speaker Stuff
How about as a pair of subs?
Speaker Stuff
Some time ago I took a pair of AR to get reconed and (I thought) a repaired tweeter. But to my initial annoyance, they replaced the one tweeter with a more modern one, but I got over it when I heard it, sice it was a nicer sounding speaker overall than the other side with the old tweeter. So with that in mind, I think you should just replace the tweeters, and then see how they sound.
(I'll even send you 3 pairs of tweeters if you pay shipping.)
(I'll even send you 3 pairs of tweeters if you pay shipping.)
No; you should put an additional baffle in order to make it flat ( at least )
and mount the woofer on the front; make round-overs in the back of the woofer hole.
Wait: I told you to mount everything on axis, so you should eliminate the rectangular duct.
Ok; a new baffle, with the three drivers on axys; the best would be to have all the drivers separated in order to be able to tilt them. so many things to take in consideration to make a good sounding speaker.
You may leave the back open and try some variations in blending the various SPL's for balance correctness...
and mount the woofer on the front; make round-overs in the back of the woofer hole.
Wait: I told you to mount everything on axis, so you should eliminate the rectangular duct.
Ok; a new baffle, with the three drivers on axys; the best would be to have all the drivers separated in order to be able to tilt them. so many things to take in consideration to make a good sounding speaker.
You may leave the back open and try some variations in blending the various SPL's for balance correctness...
WOw! I hadn't seen Dissi's schematic at post #4
So we got 1st order on woofer and midrange and 2nd order for the tweeter.
You can eliminate the L-pad
and get a pair of brand new tweeters - silk , metal, whatever - I guess that 20-25 $ each would make a big leap from the old ones ( about an octave more of "audibility" )
3/4 or 1 inch ...metal or plastic case. Many brands - they should be Z= 8 Ω
And replace the caps with film ones - 2.7 uF might be ok if you don't find 2.4
Edit: of course there's the sensitivity match ...tweeters come from 88/89 dB/W/m to 91/92 >>94/95 with waveguide ( flared)
So we got 1st order on woofer and midrange and 2nd order for the tweeter.
You can eliminate the L-pad
and get a pair of brand new tweeters - silk , metal, whatever - I guess that 20-25 $ each would make a big leap from the old ones ( about an octave more of "audibility" )
3/4 or 1 inch ...metal or plastic case. Many brands - they should be Z= 8 Ω
And replace the caps with film ones - 2.7 uF might be ok if you don't find 2.4
Edit: of course there's the sensitivity match ...tweeters come from 88/89 dB/W/m to 91/92 >>94/95 with waveguide ( flared)
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Well I'm hoping to take Andersonix up on his offer so that is a place to start for sure.
I'll see if I can find some info on the existing tweeters to see how close the AR Tweets are if I am able to hookup with Andersonix.
Film caps easy to get. I'll hold off on those till I secure some tweets.
L-Pad elimination: consider it done!
Thanks guys. Best finish the changes to my Genesis 2's today so I can get them back in circulation and pull the CS77's from my on-test Tubelab SE300b
I'll see if I can find some info on the existing tweeters to see how close the AR Tweets are if I am able to hookup with Andersonix.
Film caps easy to get. I'll hold off on those till I secure some tweets.
L-Pad elimination: consider it done!
Thanks guys. Best finish the changes to my Genesis 2's today so I can get them back in circulation and pull the CS77's from my on-test Tubelab SE300b
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