Could I get some of you to weigh in on the layout of my crossover. It's going into an oddly shaped enclosure, so small size is a priority for me. When it's glued down to the board, I'll try and push the cluster of resistors R2 R3 and R4 a little further from C3, maybe a 1/2" away.
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Looks alright to me. The coils are at right angles to each other. It's nice to stop coils pointing at metal stuff like capacitors and ground planes on circuit boards too, but that is a bit theoretical.
Placement of coils in crossover networks
I like zip ties and sticky mounts too, rather than glue at the early stage at least. Those metal connectors are called tag strips IIRC. Troels likes them too. Very easy if you want to modify values:
Troels recently published some tricks and tips, which are interesting reading: http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/tips.htm
Placement of coils in crossover networks
I like zip ties and sticky mounts too, rather than glue at the early stage at least. Those metal connectors are called tag strips IIRC. Troels likes them too. Very easy if you want to modify values:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Troels recently published some tricks and tips, which are interesting reading: http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/tips.htm
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I too have resorted to just mashing it into the shape required. Keep the coils perpendicular and don't rest a film cap against a resister. It's not rocket science, so don't over-think it.
My normal construction is a bit of hardboard with holes in it. Hard wire on the back, ty-wrap and hot glue. Ugly, cheap and workable.
My normal construction is a bit of hardboard with holes in it. Hard wire on the back, ty-wrap and hot glue. Ugly, cheap and workable.
The ability to modify easily is something I value. I've never yet built a filter that worked first time. Usually the tweeter level needs adjusting, usually quieter. Sometimes a redesign and extra components are needed if some cone breakup becomes annoying. Bass coils are hard to judge till you hear the actual bass balance too.
Given the price of these things, and mainly because I reuse them, I leave leads on caps and coils long too. Makes soldering/unsoldering capacitors safer too. We had a funny thread recently where people admitted to tidily aligning everything the same way and face up, so you could read the component values. If you bought a $5000 speaker, you'd expect that, wouldn't you?
Given the price of these things, and mainly because I reuse them, I leave leads on caps and coils long too. Makes soldering/unsoldering capacitors safer too. We had a funny thread recently where people admitted to tidily aligning everything the same way and face up, so you could read the component values. If you bought a $5000 speaker, you'd expect that, wouldn't you?
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