I was recently recommended a 2,800hz crossover point for two Dayton DA175 midbass drivers and two Dayton ND28F-6 tweeters. I found a passive crossover on Ebay that has a 2,800hz crossover point. It is rated at 4 ohm. My question is does impedance play a factor in preserving that rating? The eight ohm mid and six ohm tweeter will have a parallel resistance of 3.42 ohm.
Well, I would feel comfortable crossing around 3k. Do you have any crossover recommendations? I have quotes for a one off crossover build, but I can't afford those prices.
It changes the values of the components required, it doesn't move it up or down, it either creates an overlap or a gap. Have a look at this simple 6dB xo chart and you'll see what I mean.
6 db Crossover Table
6 db Crossover Table
And that is just a starting point.
Dor a 1st project i strongly suggest strating with a proven design.
dave
How do you suggest going about this? Like I said, I'm new to this so some good reading material and advice would be appreciated.
step 3 is the hard part...
Rod Elliott's site covers the basics, but doesn't deal with baffle step:
Passive Crossover Network Design
Rod Elliott's site covers the basics, but doesn't deal with baffle step:
Passive Crossover Network Design
Hi,
You are close but "in the blind"...
You can calculate for an approximate (first approach) layout of the crossover with the right components values (with tables/calculators).
Good, because that's the (more) difficult path, designing an effective crossover and calibrating it later in time.
Since it would be used in your car environment and possibly with MP3 and not "high definition music" you can go with an easy but consistent (and approximate) MODELING of the final version of your crossover. THAT'S WHY IT'S EXPENSIVE. It requires plenty of time for each different design, if your speaker is not in the market or diy/open source.
Modeling requires measuring or scanning the parameters/graphs for the drivers used and using modeling software like Speaker Workshop (SW), BoxSim by Visaton, others.
http://www.audio.claub.net/Simple Loudspeaker Design ver2.pdf
The other easy (stupid) way is just start with a similar crossover and adjust for your requirements like this here.
That's my impression you will have a better design with the RS150-4 6" because of the better output to 5KHz that you don't get with the DA175-8 7" at the crossover range.
Drivers in consideration by OP (car audio) for this thread:
Dayton Audio ND28F-6 1-1/8" Neodymium Dome Tweeter 6 Ohm
Dayton Audio DA175-8 7" Aluminum Cone Woofer
Dayton Audio RS150-4 6" Reference Woofer 4 Ohm
Hi,
Off the shelf crossovers are a very poor choice, right or wrong
impedance. Wrong impedance is just basically more wrong.
The first step is looking for proper x/o's designed for the midbass :
https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/hitmakers
Speaker Project - Karma Indignia -- 8/23/2011
Then talk yourself into using either x/o with the designed for tweeters,
unless you can come up with a very good reason for using a different
tweeter, usually you can't for any good reason you are aware of.
Build either design, whichever one takes your fancy.
Will be miles better than an off the shelf x/o with a random tweeter.
Also look at : http://gr-research.com/x-lsclassickit.aspx
rgds, sreten.
http://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/diy
(see if nothing else, the excellent FAQs)
rgds, sreten.
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?t=219617
http://www.zaphaudio.com
http://www.zaphaudio.com/ZA5/
http://audio.claub.net/Simple Loudspeaker Design ver2.pdf
http://www.rjbaudio.com/Audiofiles/FRDtools.html
http://web.archive.org/web/20090902124715/http://geocities.com/woove99/Spkrbldg/DesigningXO.htm
http://www.rjbaudio.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/20090902202231/http://geocities.com/woove99/Spkrbldg/
http://speakerdesignworks.com/
http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=28655
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Hi,
I completely missed the car part of this thread. Whilst car drivers
don't make good hifi drivers, to an extent is also works the
other way round depending on your in car expectations.
This driver will work very well in car doors and is designed to not
need a crossover : 6-1/2" Poly Cone Woofer 4 Ohm | 299-609
And these : Pyle PLST6 1/2" Neodymium Tweeter Pair | 267-748
Should work well with them, noting they include 12dB/octave crossovers.
However they will need L-padding down to match the bassmid unit.
You will need to experiment, with setting the tweeter level.
Best guess is 1.8R in series, 5.6R in parallel.
Omit the latter if that is too dull.
We are talking very cheap stuff here (with the heavy discounts)
but its best to keep it very simple IMO for in car stuff and stuff
suitable for purpose, which here hifi drivers simply are not IMO.
YMMV, but you could easily do a lot worse, for a lot more.
rgds, sreten.
I completely missed the car part of this thread. Whilst car drivers
don't make good hifi drivers, to an extent is also works the
other way round depending on your in car expectations.
This driver will work very well in car doors and is designed to not
need a crossover : 6-1/2" Poly Cone Woofer 4 Ohm | 299-609
And these : Pyle PLST6 1/2" Neodymium Tweeter Pair | 267-748
Should work well with them, noting they include 12dB/octave crossovers.
However they will need L-padding down to match the bassmid unit.
You will need to experiment, with setting the tweeter level.
Best guess is 1.8R in series, 5.6R in parallel.
Omit the latter if that is too dull.
We are talking very cheap stuff here (with the heavy discounts)
but its best to keep it very simple IMO for in car stuff and stuff
suitable for purpose, which here hifi drivers simply are not IMO.
YMMV, but you could easily do a lot worse, for a lot more.
rgds, sreten.
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Hi,
Its hard to say anything definitive about the 3 kits
referenced for for home hifi, other than the X-LS
kit is the one to go for if you are at all perplexed
about building crossovers and choosing the x/o
components, the x/o's are very good quality.
Their applicability to in car systems is IMO very
dubious, though all 3 fudge BSC to an extent,
the least the Hitmaker, stating it is nearfield.
YMMV, but for a lot less what is outlined in
my previous post is probably a better idea,
certainly IMO on simple cost effectiveness.
rgds, sreten.
I am dead set on using high quality components. I actually bought a set of Pyle tweeters when I was young to put in one of my trucks. I had a nice Pioneer head unit with vast options within the eq. They sounded like complete crap to me. I had a set of JBL P660C and that was probably the best sounding components I have heard as far as car audio goes. I've been looking into crossover design and think I may go with the 1st Order Butterworth 2-Way Filter configuration since I could easily build them myself with minimal parts.
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