Robert,
Do you want the appearance of the JBL? And how stuck are you on this driver. Are you sure it is this type of Volt driver you have? Celestion 5 inch driver is a good budget middriverTopicstarter said he wanted a budget version....
In full tilt "somebody is wrong on the internet modus" no offense ment.
I love the look of those bog JBL but i know i cant make or buy them.
I have two of the volt drivers so im looking to use those to create a "miniature" version of the jbl, if you know what i mean.
I really haven't a clue when it comes to deciding a suitable matching mid and tweet, so could somebody select suitable mids and highs that i can look at.
Cheers
If you have no experience with crossovers, i would recommend to buy a good PA speakerkit that can be made to look what you want. Otherwise you first have to learn how to do measurements and use a program to model the response + crossover of the individual drivers into at least a flat response on axis. (to overly simplify mathers). Look for a kit with roughly the same front dimensions. So the baffle step compensation / crossover will fit snugly. I suggest PA, because most modern diy kit's dont use such large cone's.
Mr Darwin is right, DSP would be another option. But if looks are what you are after, even DSP needs some knowledge about crossovers in general to get the most out of it.
Mr Darwin is right, DSP would be another option. But if looks are what you are after, even DSP needs some knowledge about crossovers in general to get the most out of it.
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Beautifull drivers, but if you have no way of knitting them together in a very wide enclosure...( i mean measure + simulate ). Most modern diy-kits are slim floorstanders. If you put these in a 40+ cm wide enclosure the crossover has to be redesigned. Can't help it. Diy kits for JBL style wide speakers are very rare.
This is the best in the classical style sense i can find:
https://www.lautsprechershop.de/index_hifi_en.htm?https://www.lautsprechershop.de/hifi/cauchy_en.htm
Or these.
http://www.lautsprechershop.de/index_hifi_de.htm?http://www.lautsprechershop.de/hifi/klonwall.htm
This might be a good start to get a grip on what it takes to design a crossover.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/mult...designing-crossovers-without-measurement.html
https://www.lautsprechershop.de/index_hifi_en.htm?https://www.lautsprechershop.de/hifi/cauchy_en.htm
Or these.
http://www.lautsprechershop.de/index_hifi_de.htm?http://www.lautsprechershop.de/hifi/klonwall.htm
This might be a good start to get a grip on what it takes to design a crossover.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/mult...designing-crossovers-without-measurement.html
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One advantage of the combination of your Volts, the BMS 5" and the tweeters used in spinmonster's thread (see earlier link) is that their linear ranges overlap by an octave or more each side of the crossover points (I'd suggest 250 and 2500Hz) so acoustic slope will largely equal electrical slope thus removing one potentially headache-inducing complication.
A fairly simple 24dB Linkwitz-Riley should give usable, decent results and a digital one will allow some fine tuning to the room if necessary.
According to spinmonster a single cap should linearize the tweeter output when in a waveguide and also give some protection from accidental DC being applied to the tweeter.
That said if Vifa's numbers are to be believed that tweeter is already enormously robust (100W from 500Hz to 20kHz band limited using 12dB slopes).
An additional 5kHz notch on the mid should deal with its cone break up.
PS: I'd be mildly surprised if a PA speaker would feature baffle step compensation.
A fairly simple 24dB Linkwitz-Riley should give usable, decent results and a digital one will allow some fine tuning to the room if necessary.
According to spinmonster a single cap should linearize the tweeter output when in a waveguide and also give some protection from accidental DC being applied to the tweeter.
That said if Vifa's numbers are to be believed that tweeter is already enormously robust (100W from 500Hz to 20kHz band limited using 12dB slopes).
An additional 5kHz notch on the mid should deal with its cone break up.
PS: I'd be mildly surprised if a PA speaker would feature baffle step compensation.
With a 40+ cm wide baffle, there is not much need for baffle step compensation
To complicate matters. How about an upgraded JBL L100 Century, at least it's close to what you are looking for. Nobody will prevent you to design a new cabinet for it with the same dimensions and some of the stuff you like from the examples you have shown.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JBL-Model-L...pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item2ece819ff3
The upgrade:
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/JBL_L100.htm
To complicate matters. How about an upgraded JBL L100 Century, at least it's close to what you are looking for. Nobody will prevent you to design a new cabinet for it with the same dimensions and some of the stuff you like from the examples you have shown.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JBL-Model-L...pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item2ece819ff3
The upgrade:
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/JBL_L100.htm
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I wouldn't bother with baffle step compensation neither.
Even better a 40cm wide baffle gives a baffle step correction point of 287Hz. Use that as the xover frequency between woofer and mid and we are still nicely in the drivers linear response region and baffle step compensation can be done by simply varying the woofer level. Another headache removed.
Even better a 40cm wide baffle gives a baffle step correction point of 287Hz. Use that as the xover frequency between woofer and mid and we are still nicely in the drivers linear response region and baffle step compensation can be done by simply varying the woofer level. Another headache removed.
Robert
Try this: Introduction to designing crossovers without measurement:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/mult...designing-crossovers-without-measurement.html
Not to nag you, but that's the basic's needed if you want to design your own (simple 2 way) speakers. Designing a three way speaker as a first project without a firm grip on measurement and simulation programs is nearly impossible. Very sorry to be the bearer of the bad news. It would be sad if you ended up with a pile of 6 very good looking drivers and no results.
Try this: Introduction to designing crossovers without measurement:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/mult...designing-crossovers-without-measurement.html
Not to nag you, but that's the basic's needed if you want to design your own (simple 2 way) speakers. Designing a three way speaker as a first project without a firm grip on measurement and simulation programs is nearly impossible. Very sorry to be the bearer of the bad news. It would be sad if you ended up with a pile of 6 very good looking drivers and no results.
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That would be only possible with measurement of all three (for example 3) drivers in the enclosure. And only if the three are carefully chosen. Lot's of overlap, same dB's sort of, etc. Catch 22. I really think your best chance is a kit which is ment for the oldschool enclosure dimension you like.
Go active, seriously!
Again it removes a lot of headaches, you do have a fighting chance to end up with something decent and the prices of good passive components do add up rapidly.
If you opt for a digital solution like the Behringer DCX2496, MiniDSP or DB-Mark you can change nearly every parameter for free and in seconds. Passive would require buying more components and hours wasted of changing them around.
Again it removes a lot of headaches, you do have a fighting chance to end up with something decent and the prices of good passive components do add up rapidly.
If you opt for a digital solution like the Behringer DCX2496, MiniDSP or DB-Mark you can change nearly every parameter for free and in seconds. Passive would require buying more components and hours wasted of changing them around.
In this episode of good cop bad cop....
Dont go active unless you have a good grip on:
- what's needed to calculate a enclosure
- what's a good driver (!) and what overlap means
- you have extra money for 3 amps for each speaker ( for example 3 way)
- you have some idea about what crossovers are. having all the possibilities of going 6 to 48dB oct, phase adjustment and all that is only confusing if you dont have a basic grasp on x-overs.
- you still have to feed the DSP a measurement...
My 2 cents
Dont go active unless you have a good grip on:
- what's needed to calculate a enclosure
- what's a good driver (!) and what overlap means
- you have extra money for 3 amps for each speaker ( for example 3 way)
- you have some idea about what crossovers are. having all the possibilities of going 6 to 48dB oct, phase adjustment and all that is only confusing if you dont have a basic grasp on x-overs.
- you still have to feed the DSP a measurement...
My 2 cents
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In this episode of good cop bad cop....
Haha... good way of putting it. I like! ;-)
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