Okay, so I am new to amp overhauls and rebuilds. Have been reading alot, but still VERY new to tube audio. My main question, (As I have assumed or learned everything else for getting the basics done) was how do I install an IEC Recepticle and 3-Way Carling On-STBY-Off switch, as well as, a fuse holder. Just trying to figure this out. Let me know if pictures are helpful. Thanks.
If your have a 4" or bigger vise a workbench to bolt it to, and a drill motor, you can install the capped fuse holders that need a D-hole. I drill a 3/8" hole, then wallow it out to the D size with a rat tail file. If you don't, get a clearance drill for # 6 machine screws and install the clip kind of fuseholder inside the chassis. #27 or bigger (smaller #) drill will work. I install two fuses, one about 2 amp in the blue wire going to the power switch and back, and a 1/2 amp for the power transformer in case the rectifier tube shorts out. The wire coming back from the power switch is yellow, so put a 120 VAC or higher rated switch between the blue and yellow on the back of the 4 pin amphenol connector.
Don't know what standby means. I guess you could disconnect the power transformer primary, but the heaters run from the same transfomer as the B+ high voltage, so you can't have one without the other.
You'll need to do something about protecting your input from the guitar from the tube grid incase the tube shorts out. I don't have a schematic for this one, but make sure the input capacitor to the tube grid is rated 600V or above. If the grid is direct coupled like in a hifi amp, install a .1 uf 600v capacitor between input and first tube grid.
I install the IEC connector in the old round hole. Takes a triangle file to notch out the corners to make room for the IEC. Then I drill two #6 holes on the side to mount it. Then I cut a little piece of metal with tin snips to cover over the hole under the IEC so your grandchild doesn't stick his finger in there.
The best source of mailorder hardware I know of is mcmaster.com. Or you might find onesies at the hardware store, but they don't have numbered drills. The drills from the discount store are garbage, they have thinned them out to make a price point and they break too easily.
Wear safety glasses, even good drills can shatter. Use a magnet to clean up metal inside the chassis before powering on. If you can't afford a drill motor, hand crank drills do a #6 hole okay and are about $2 at the flea market.
Don't know what standby means. I guess you could disconnect the power transformer primary, but the heaters run from the same transfomer as the B+ high voltage, so you can't have one without the other.
You'll need to do something about protecting your input from the guitar from the tube grid incase the tube shorts out. I don't have a schematic for this one, but make sure the input capacitor to the tube grid is rated 600V or above. If the grid is direct coupled like in a hifi amp, install a .1 uf 600v capacitor between input and first tube grid.
I install the IEC connector in the old round hole. Takes a triangle file to notch out the corners to make room for the IEC. Then I drill two #6 holes on the side to mount it. Then I cut a little piece of metal with tin snips to cover over the hole under the IEC so your grandchild doesn't stick his finger in there.
The best source of mailorder hardware I know of is mcmaster.com. Or you might find onesies at the hardware store, but they don't have numbered drills. The drills from the discount store are garbage, they have thinned them out to make a price point and they break too easily.
Wear safety glasses, even good drills can shatter. Use a magnet to clean up metal inside the chassis before powering on. If you can't afford a drill motor, hand crank drills do a #6 hole okay and are about $2 at the flea market.
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