hi to everybody,
l am a new member on this forum,l am interested in fullrange speakers
last 20 year am collecting speakers, nowadays l became a fun of fullrange units
in some selling pages l happened to be found an interesting enclosure with four fullrange drivers, there are two audax fullrange driver third one unfortunately wasnt in place, so l bought a pair of grundig fullrange driver, and a tweeter which l supposed to believe, brand philips l will show inside and outside pictrs
is there anybody who can describe how to connect them in a proper way
thank you again for any answer.
eli[
l am a new member on this forum,l am interested in fullrange speakers
last 20 year am collecting speakers, nowadays l became a fun of fullrange units
in some selling pages l happened to be found an interesting enclosure with four fullrange drivers, there are two audax fullrange driver third one unfortunately wasnt in place, so l bought a pair of grundig fullrange driver, and a tweeter which l supposed to believe, brand philips l will show inside and outside pictrs
is there anybody who can describe how to connect them in a proper way
thank you again for any answer.
eli[
Welcome to the forum, Eli!
That's a nice collection of speaker drivers with which to experiment.
The small silver speaker appears to be intended to run full range as well (a tweeter normally has a closed back).
Can you post the impedance, in ohms, of each driver? That is important in deciding how to connect them together. If you know the power handling rating of each driver, in watts, that would also be helpful.
So we don't damage your amplifier, what is the minimum speaker impedance it can safely tolerate?
That's a nice collection of speaker drivers with which to experiment.
The small silver speaker appears to be intended to run full range as well (a tweeter normally has a closed back).
Can you post the impedance, in ohms, of each driver? That is important in deciding how to connect them together. If you know the power handling rating of each driver, in watts, that would also be helpful.
So we don't damage your amplifier, what is the minimum speaker impedance it can safely tolerate?
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Are you sure that the Grundigs are 32 ohm?
As a check, do you have a multimeter with which to measure the resistance of each speaker?
The DC resistance will be slightly less than the nominal impedance of course.
My first guess was that the four original speakers (3 Audax plus one 'tweeter') were wired in series to give a total impedance of around 16 ohm, which is a safe load for any amplifier.
However 32 ohm Grundigs would not be compatible with the other three drivers in this circuit and you would have to look for 4 ohm substitutes to match.
Can you give any information about the complete speaker enclosure - from a label on the back for instance?
As a check, do you have a multimeter with which to measure the resistance of each speaker?
The DC resistance will be slightly less than the nominal impedance of course.
My first guess was that the four original speakers (3 Audax plus one 'tweeter') were wired in series to give a total impedance of around 16 ohm, which is a safe load for any amplifier.
However 32 ohm Grundigs would not be compatible with the other three drivers in this circuit and you would have to look for 4 ohm substitutes to match.
Can you give any information about the complete speaker enclosure - from a label on the back for instance?
Attachments
Eli said that the third Audax driver was missing, turk, and that he'd bought the 'silver oval' (Grundig) driver to replace it.
He has a problem with that since its impedance, if indeed 32 ohm, does not match that of the other drivers. As you point out, it is physically too small for the baffle cut-out, but that would be more easily remedied than incorporating its mismatched impedance.
I wouldn't be surprised if the original three Audax drivers and the round (Philips?) driver were wired in series. Many speaker combinations of this type and vintage were so wired.
Suffice it to say that the Grundig speakers Eli bought to replace the missing Audax drivers appear not to be compatible with his speaker renovation.
Anyway, there's no point in puzzling further over the wiring until the driver DCR measurements are posted to confirm Eli's impedance figures.
He has a problem with that since its impedance, if indeed 32 ohm, does not match that of the other drivers. As you point out, it is physically too small for the baffle cut-out, but that would be more easily remedied than incorporating its mismatched impedance.
I wouldn't be surprised if the original three Audax drivers and the round (Philips?) driver were wired in series. Many speaker combinations of this type and vintage were so wired.
Suffice it to say that the Grundig speakers Eli bought to replace the missing Audax drivers appear not to be compatible with his speaker renovation.
Anyway, there's no point in puzzling further over the wiring until the driver DCR measurements are posted to confirm Eli's impedance figures.
to my opinion audax were three unit one is missing below, intead they install something unknown. eliptical l removed that one but grundig doesnt seem to fit to this combination, l have to find something with 4 ohm , and would you explain lf l find 4 ohm driver to place thethird unit and how do l install crossover or any cap to where thank you for any detail.
What I am about to say depends on all three elliptical speakers being 4 ohm types and not 8 ohm types. Do you not have a multimeter to confirm? That is basic equipment for the loudspeaker builder.
The round Philips driver is an open back, full range driver. If it was run full range then no crossover was involved and all four drivers were simply wired in series. Please note that vintage Audax tweeters have a closed back as shown in the attachment.
Alternatively, you could wire the three elliptical drivers in series, and place the Philips driver in parallel with the series combination via a 3.3 ohm NP film capacitor to act as a high pass crossover. Then the the Philips driver should ideally be boxed in to protect it from the back pressure of the other drivers.
When you obtain a third matching elliptical driver, you can try both methods of connection to see which one sounds best - you can't do any harm to the speakers in either case.
Of course, we would have to have a complete rethink if the elliptical units were, in fact, 8 ohm devices!
The round Philips driver is an open back, full range driver. If it was run full range then no crossover was involved and all four drivers were simply wired in series. Please note that vintage Audax tweeters have a closed back as shown in the attachment.
Alternatively, you could wire the three elliptical drivers in series, and place the Philips driver in parallel with the series combination via a 3.3 ohm NP film capacitor to act as a high pass crossover. Then the the Philips driver should ideally be boxed in to protect it from the back pressure of the other drivers.
When you obtain a third matching elliptical driver, you can try both methods of connection to see which one sounds best - you can't do any harm to the speakers in either case.
Of course, we would have to have a complete rethink if the elliptical units were, in fact, 8 ohm devices!
Attachments
I suggest a 3.3uF (microfarad) capacitor.
It must be a plastic film type intended for loudspeaker crossovers, like this one: Monacor 3.3uf 250V 5% Bipolar MKP Polypropylene Capacitor - Willys-Hifi Ltd
Connect it to the positive terminal on the Philips speaker.
It must be a plastic film type intended for loudspeaker crossovers, like this one: Monacor 3.3uf 250V 5% Bipolar MKP Polypropylene Capacitor - Willys-Hifi Ltd
Connect it to the positive terminal on the Philips speaker.
On second thoughts, put an 8.2uF capacitor in line with the Philips. Monacor 8.2uf 250V 5% Bipolar MKP Polypropylene Capacitor - Willys-Hifi Ltd
I can't get my mind round using the Grundig as a mid - it's too late at night!
You know, the best thing to do is to simply blank off the third opening, wire the two Audax units in series then place the Philips plus capacitor across (in parallel with) the series Audax combination. Job done!
I can't get my mind round using the Grundig as a mid - it's too late at night!
You know, the best thing to do is to simply blank off the third opening, wire the two Audax units in series then place the Philips plus capacitor across (in parallel with) the series Audax combination. Job done!
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