Question about fiberglass foam cabinet insulation

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Hello folks,

I'm building my full-range speaker enclosure and will be adding fiberglass insulation. My question is the following: On the back of the roll of the fiberglass material I bought from Lowe's, there is paper to which the fiberglass foam is attached to. Am I supposed to leave the paper on the back and attach it to the enclosure walls liked that or am I supposed to remove the paper back and attach the foam to the speaker walls.

Thanks in advance.
 
Thanks for the visual. So we’re talking about standard paper-backed fiberglass batting. For a ported enclosure where you are lining the walls rather than stuffing the cavity you can leave the paper backing on and use it to your advantage. It can be used as a surface for spreading the glue before attaching to the walls or it can help hold the batting in place if you prefer stapling to gluing. If you were stuffing the cabinet you would want to remove the paper.

Having said that, I don’t like fiberglass as a damping material. The fibers can float free and get in your lungs or other undesirable places so, if you must use it, wear gloves and a mask and do the work outside. You might also want to cover the back of the driver with a layer of cheesecloth or other acoustically porous material so the fibers don’t mess with the driver surround, cone, or spider.

For lining material my preference is the UltraTouch recycled denim insulation which comes foil-backed. For stuffing, I prefer to use Acousta-Stuf.
 
Thanks for the visual. So we’re talking about standard paper-backed fiberglass batting. For a ported enclosure where you are lining the walls rather than stuffing the cavity you can leave the paper backing on and use it to your advantage. It can be used as a surface for spreading the glue before attaching to the walls or it can help hold the batting in place if you prefer stapling to gluing. If you were stuffing the cabinet you would want to remove the paper.

Having said that, I don’t like fiberglass as a damping material. The fibers can float free and get in your lungs or other undesirable places so, if you must use it, wear gloves and a mask and do the work outside. You might also want to cover the back of the driver with a layer of cheesecloth or other acoustically porous material so the fibers don’t mess with the driver surround, cone, or spider.

For lining material my preference is the UltraTouch recycled denim insulation which comes foil-backed. For stuffing, I prefer to use Acousta-Stuf.

Thank you very much for the advice. I’ve also thought about the free fibers escaping the port while playing music. I’m tempted to use some sort of mesh Over the port to avoid the hairs of the material from escaping. However I don’t know how it’ll affect the sound. I may have to try your suggestions.
 
Thank you very much for the advice. I’ve also thought about the free fibers escaping the port while playing music. I’m tempted to use some sort of mesh Over the port to avoid the hairs of the material from escaping. However I don’t know how it’ll affect the sound. I may have to try your suggestions.

Pantyhose is a good option. You could attach it to the back of the port with a zip tie or elastic band.
 
My full range speakers so far

My speakers are coming alone. I am testing the number of ports I intend to use. Either one or three or even two. The demo I posted is just a prototype front cover made with cheap plywood. The sides and back are the real wood which is Baltic birchwood.

I haven't sealed the top or bottom as of yet. Here is a sound sample on youtube. What do you folks think? by the way, the bass is much deeper than what you can hear in the video. MySpeakersOnYoutube
 
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