So I have a 70” flatscreen that is stand mounted and I want to build a new center channel for under the stand. It can’t be any thicker than 3” as I don’t want to raise the screen height too much and it can’t go in front as it would block the IR receiver. My initial thought was a long enclosure at 48” long on a slight arc with 4 of the SBAcoustics 2.5” fullrangers 12” apart on center for off axis response. For lower end response, two of the Dayton 6” low profile sub/woofers facing upwards.
Not sure if i’ll need any HP filter on the fullrange since I’ll be using 4 and everything is crossed to subs at 60hz anyways.......Maybe a first order around 250hz? The upfiring woofer lowpass would be a work in progress.
Thoughts?........I do have some interest in the new SBAcoustics 3” fullrangers as well......both the specs and pricing are very attractive but I’m trying to make off axis response my #1 priority.
Not sure if i’ll need any HP filter on the fullrange since I’ll be using 4 and everything is crossed to subs at 60hz anyways.......Maybe a first order around 250hz? The upfiring woofer lowpass would be a work in progress.
Thoughts?........I do have some interest in the new SBAcoustics 3” fullrangers as well......both the specs and pricing are very attractive but I’m trying to make off axis response my #1 priority.
Go smaller.... If the enclosure is 3" high, even using 3/8" material the biggest driver would be a 2". So maybe Fountek FR58EX x 4.
Another option would be to space the screen higher to allow a more log like box to sit in front.... If you raise the TV by 2-3". Can you then fit a 3-4" box in front of the stand?
Another option would be to space the screen higher to allow a more log like box to sit in front.... If you raise the TV by 2-3". Can you then fit a 3-4" box in front of the stand?
I wouldn't put 4 drivers spaced 12" apart horizontally if off axis response was important. We might debate comb filtering audibility in closely spaced vertical line arrays... but I don't think there would be much debate about that proposal.
A small cluster of tightly spaced drivers in an arc in the center with LF drivers flanking further out? Maybe that would be OK.
I'd have to check but I bet the 2.5" SB would work. You need inside box dimension to be at least as large as driver cutout hole diameter. If flange mounting screws extend into top and bottom pannels that is no big deal.
A small cluster of tightly spaced drivers in an arc in the center with LF drivers flanking further out? Maybe that would be OK.
I'd have to check but I bet the 2.5" SB would work. You need inside box dimension to be at least as large as driver cutout hole diameter. If flange mounting screws extend into top and bottom pannels that is no big deal.
If there’s any possibility of mounting TV on either a wall bracket, or one of those equipment cabinets with integral post mounted brackets you could eliminate the constraints of enclosure height and driver size. I’ve done that several times, and am one of those who believe that if using Full-rangers, a single larger diameter driver would yield better results in the center channel.
I’m currently running Alpair10.3 across front row - depending on room size, listening distance, etc., a 3 -4” could work just fine.
I’m currently running Alpair10.3 across front row - depending on room size, listening distance, etc., a 3 -4” could work just fine.
You should do a full horizontal CBT with the SB65xxx to get the dispersion/directivity you want and with 16 drivers in 48" should be able to cross to subs at 80 Hz without aid of 6.5" woofers. My line array that uses the SB65 is only 2" thick...
Yes I know that 16 SB65's will be expensive. The Fountek FR58EX is just/just about as good as costs quite a bit less.
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/337956-range-line-array-wall-corner-placement.html#post5793446
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Sorry......TV is on an entertainment stand in front of a large picture window so the mounting and location are fixed.
I have to strongly disagree with your single driver solution......the off axis response of the driver you mention is aweful and would be a disaster for vocal intelligibility.
Fair enough.
FWIW, the primary listening position in this particular system is a pair of cozy recliners - neither of which is more than 15dg off axis and 3 meters from the front wall. I’ve found this configuration to work quite adequately with either the A10.3, or for a couple of years previously the A7.3. But as always, YMMV.
We’ve been in this house over 30 yrs and have renovated every room at least twice, and have neither the desire to move or budget to build a “proper” dedicated Home Theatre. My wife and I are now both retired and still reasonably healthy and quite honesty would rather deplete the small nest egg by ticking off items from our travel bucket list than spending big bucks on the HT system of which I’m the main beneficiary. The only configuration that will work in the available basement room is with the equipment & front row speakers ( including height surrounds) on a 16ft wide end wall with 8ft wide half height windows immediately behind the system. The equipment stand is open shelved with a sturdy metal upstand and separate supporting bracket for the TV itself. While the TV could fit on the top shelf, the supplied feet give less than 3” clearance, and as I subscribe to the theory that the acoustic centres of the main front 3 should be as a straight horizontal line as possible, I found the next lower shelf too low. In the past 10yrs, I’ve upscaled the flat screen at least 4 times and am now running a Visio 62” UHD/4K. This arrangement has allowed me to juggle equipment and speaker changes fairly easily. It’s the rats nest of signal cables and speaker wires that is the biggest PITA.
Now, if money and real world practicalities were no impediment, I’d probably shoot for a 4K projector and acoustically transparent screen with active multi ways across the front wall.
Best of luck with your project.
FWIW, the primary listening position in this particular system is a pair of cozy recliners - neither of which is more than 15dg off axis and 3 meters from the front wall. I’ve found this configuration to work quite adequately with either the A10.3, or for a couple of years previously the A7.3. But as always, YMMV.
We’ve been in this house over 30 yrs and have renovated every room at least twice, and have neither the desire to move or budget to build a “proper” dedicated Home Theatre. My wife and I are now both retired and still reasonably healthy and quite honesty would rather deplete the small nest egg by ticking off items from our travel bucket list than spending big bucks on the HT system of which I’m the main beneficiary. The only configuration that will work in the available basement room is with the equipment & front row speakers ( including height surrounds) on a 16ft wide end wall with 8ft wide half height windows immediately behind the system. The equipment stand is open shelved with a sturdy metal upstand and separate supporting bracket for the TV itself. While the TV could fit on the top shelf, the supplied feet give less than 3” clearance, and as I subscribe to the theory that the acoustic centres of the main front 3 should be as a straight horizontal line as possible, I found the next lower shelf too low. In the past 10yrs, I’ve upscaled the flat screen at least 4 times and am now running a Visio 62” UHD/4K. This arrangement has allowed me to juggle equipment and speaker changes fairly easily. It’s the rats nest of signal cables and speaker wires that is the biggest PITA.
Now, if money and real world practicalities were no impediment, I’d probably shoot for a 4K projector and acoustically transparent screen with active multi ways across the front wall.
Best of luck with your project.
For your app, a slightly curved array of thin TV/sound bar drivers seems the way to go : 2.0 Channel Tv Sound Bar Speaker For Home Cinema 4/816 Ohms Inch Internal Speakers Tv - Buy 8 Inch Speakers,Internal Speakers Tv,2.0 Channel Tv Sound Bar Speaker For Home Cinema Product on Alibaba.com
GM
GM
.......which is what I want to avoid having to do. Currently the center of the screen is at the same height as my seated height line of sight. There is 3.5” from the bottom of the screen to the top of the cabinet. My current CC is 3.25” tall but is in front of the TV’s stand so it just clears the screen but has to be offset to not block the IR receiver. I’m planning to put the new CC between the TV’s base and the cabinet/stand which is 72” long and 18” deep. Putting the CC in the cabinet won’t work.....it would be too far off on the vertical listening axis.
Here’s an interesting midwoofer if I decide to go FAST or conventional 2way with robust tweeters.
TC2X4FB00-08 - Tymphany
I could do two WFW segments on the outer ends in a dual mono configuration across the 48” which would give wide horizontal axis coverage but still lock the sound to the screen center. It won’t be very efficient but my receiver is 120wpc so shouldn’t be an issue. My LR mains are only 86db 1w/meter anyways.
What is do like about this midwoofer is the rising low end response which should negate the need for BSC.....i expect the response to flatten out on a 3” baffle. These look like they’ll easily give me an F3 of 80hz
TC2X4FB00-08 - Tymphany
I could do two WFW segments on the outer ends in a dual mono configuration across the 48” which would give wide horizontal axis coverage but still lock the sound to the screen center. It won’t be very efficient but my receiver is 120wpc so shouldn’t be an issue. My LR mains are only 86db 1w/meter anyways.
What is do like about this midwoofer is the rising low end response which should negate the need for BSC.....i expect the response to flatten out on a 3” baffle. These look like they’ll easily give me an F3 of 80hz
But aren’t the high frequencies above the drivers beaming diameter going to rolloff from comb filtering? I don’t want to have to throw a bunch of eQ at this.
Given your size limitations perhaps you should look at speaker modules:
Tang Band - TB Speakers, Replacement Speakers, Raw Drivers, DIY Speakers, Bass Speakers, Tweeters, Woofers, Woofer Speakers, Subwoofers, Dome Midranges, Dome Tweeters, Ribbon Tweeters, Extended Range Cone Drivers
Ignore the hyperbole of the description. The link takes you to the TB speaker modules only.
Tang Band - TB Speakers, Replacement Speakers, Raw Drivers, DIY Speakers, Bass Speakers, Tweeters, Woofers, Woofer Speakers, Subwoofers, Dome Midranges, Dome Tweeters, Ribbon Tweeters, Extended Range Cone Drivers
Ignore the hyperbole of the description. The link takes you to the TB speaker modules only.
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Not generally enough to be noticeable at the listening position using a focused array curved horizontally, especially if mono.
GM
Thank you!
So I think I’ve settled on a horizontal arc array of 8 drivers using a Tymphany 2.5” fullrange that has a rising response above 8khz on axis. Allowing for frame spacing min., overall width should be 30” which will include two front firing ports on the ends.
Now should I just wire these up in two 4 unit groups for even impedance or should I power taper it?.......4 center drivers low and 4 outer drivers high?.....or vice versa?
I’m also going to eliminate the 6” upfiring woofers now as I think 8 of these fullrangers tuned below the crossover frequency should produce an adequate low end response and protect from over excursion. One possibility was to use a sealed high Q enclosure for the 4 middle drivers and then seperate ported for the 4 outer units. Sims in Unibox overlapped look promising.
So I think I’ve settled on a horizontal arc array of 8 drivers using a Tymphany 2.5” fullrange that has a rising response above 8khz on axis. Allowing for frame spacing min., overall width should be 30” which will include two front firing ports on the ends.
Now should I just wire these up in two 4 unit groups for even impedance or should I power taper it?.......4 center drivers low and 4 outer drivers high?.....or vice versa?
I’m also going to eliminate the 6” upfiring woofers now as I think 8 of these fullrangers tuned below the crossover frequency should produce an adequate low end response and protect from over excursion. One possibility was to use a sealed high Q enclosure for the 4 middle drivers and then seperate ported for the 4 outer units. Sims in Unibox overlapped look promising.
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