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#1 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
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I'm considering a speaker system using one wide box with separate enclosures for two full range drivers and one sub.
This is only the second speaker system I've ever built, so, i'm still a bit green. I'm wondering if anyone can give me advice as to weather or not the following components would work well together. (included are their specs) Any feedback/criticism is highly appreciated! --------------------------------------------------- FULL-RANGE (2 Speakers-stereo) MODEL: Dayton Audio RS100-8 4" Reference Full-Range Driver o RMS: 30 watts o 8 ohms o Freq. Response: 90 to 20,000 o Sensitivity: 84.6 dB 2.83V/1m o Resonant freq.: 92.2 Hz These two full-range drivers would be pushed by a 2x15 Watt 4 ohm amp. WOOFER (1 mono speaker) Dayton Audio DC160-8 6-1/2" Classic Woofer o RMS: 50 watts o 8 ohms o Freq. Response: 30 to 4,000 o Sensitivity: 86.1 dB 2.83V/1m o Resonant freq.: 35.7 Hz o Crossover: Low-pass 100Hz 8 ohm This woofer would be pushed by a 1x30 Watt 4 ohm amp. It would also need its only level adjustment. (VOL pot) --------------------------------------------------------------------- My questions: -Would these speakers work well together? -Is the crossover frequency selection a good one? -Are the speaker watt and amp outputs OK for each other? -Is there anything i'm missing here? haha.. Thanks in advance to any input!! |
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#2 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Bruges
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Put your crossover frequency up a bit higher, like 180Hz maybe. Your 'full range' drivers will take less bass, which will improve the quality. Otherwise, it seems pretty okay. I would however beef up on the midhigh's amps. You're gonna clip the amps easily and that'll kill your killer system. If you're buying chinese boards, you should be especially careful. "2x200w" is usually only 2x25w :P
when hooking up the subwoofer's amp, use a resistor summing network to sum the bass off the two channels. It makes sure you don't get any bass lost. Some bass is actually directional. Depends on the mastering. |
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#3 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
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Quote:
Thanks for the thoughtful response! -As for raising the crossover, I guess that would be a good idea in order for the frequencies of FR and sub to overlap a bit? -Do you think a 2x30 watt amp (sure electronics board) would be OK for those FR drivers? .. Or even more 'beef' ? hah "Resistor summing network" -This is a new term for me, so thanks for the heads up! Would the following diagram work for this setup??
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Thanks! Last edited by kyle321; 11th May 2017 at 08:01 PM. |
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#4 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Penrhyndeudraeth
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#5 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
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Quote:
The entire unit will be off the ground and the sub-woofer would be facing down. Last edited by kyle321; 11th May 2017 at 08:56 PM. |
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#6 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Penrhyndeudraeth
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Well, this is a novel approach..
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#7 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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kyle - to expand a bit on humbledeer's suggestion - the higher you can crossover the "subs", the lower the midrange distortion and higher attainable SPLs from the mid-range on up - to the limits of the FR driver - no majik there, just physics. However, if you go much higher than about 120, I'd generally suggest that a pair of stereo woofers would yield better results in terms of imaging.
Also keep in mind that often the most uniform performance at lowest frequencies is attained with the woofers in a different position than the mains. Nothing wrong with the idea of a sound-bar type enclosure for the FR drivers, but unless you're severely constrained in space, I think you'd get much more satisfactory results with at the least the woofer(s) - either just one or two - in stereo in separate cabinet(s) The drivers you've listed should delivery very good results.
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#8 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
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Quote:
It will be on steel legs about a few feet above the ground. The entire unit will be about 6"(height) x 18(depth) x 3' (width) But, those dimensions don't necessarily represent the internal volume for each speaker, I was going to base that off of what each speaker spec. recommends. The whole unit, sitting above ground on steel legs. Kind of like a table. |
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#9 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
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Quote:
Thanks for the info! This is the type of crossover I had in mind for the sub... I was thinking that the full-range drivers would not have any crossover attached. Would that be ok? https://www.parts-express.com/parts-...sover--266-446 As for the sub position, I was thinking of placing the sub firing downwards at the floor. The whole box-unit would be a few feet off the ground. |
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#10 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Penrhyndeudraeth
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I think you should use an active xover like I suggested in your other thread
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