I agree.. I'm just trying to figure out what would be the best speaker arrangement I can do for the size of the unit i'm dealing with. -And 4 speakers are the maximum. ...At first, I made a box with (2) 3-1/2" full range drivers and (2) 1" dome tweeters. I can get a decent sound out of it, but i'd like to re-do the unit to sound a little fuller on the bottom.
When you say, "Your 'full range' drivers will take less bass", do you mean that they will actually play less bass?
If I have the system wired in a way that splits the audio signal two ways:
1- Amp pushing two FR drivers
2- Mono-amp pushing sub
Then, if the low-pass crossover is placed before the sub, it will still affect the sounds coming out of the FR drivers that were split to another amp?
I thought that for the FR drivers to be affected, they would also need to be connected to a crossover, maybe a 2-type...
He meant that the crossover for BOTH the full range and the sub should be a little higher. That means the sub plays up to 180Hz then starts to fade, and the FR play down to 180Hz, then start to fade.
Not asking a smaller driver to play those lower frequencies usually frees it up and makes it sound cleaner in the higher frequencies.
Look at this graph, just move the XO at 180Hz, and picture that the woofer is the sub, and the tweeter the FR.
The components for the sub are not the same as the ones for the FR, if you are doing it passive.
An easy way to deal with XOs is to make them active, so no added components, using a miniDSP module. Using that module, you can move around the XO with just a few clicks of the mouse. Quite convenient.
https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-2x4
Not asking a smaller driver to play those lower frequencies usually frees it up and makes it sound cleaner in the higher frequencies.
Look at this graph, just move the XO at 180Hz, and picture that the woofer is the sub, and the tweeter the FR.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The components for the sub are not the same as the ones for the FR, if you are doing it passive.
An easy way to deal with XOs is to make them active, so no added components, using a miniDSP module. Using that module, you can move around the XO with just a few clicks of the mouse. Quite convenient.
https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-2x4
Hmm, different strokes........after looking at the responses and the bulbous surround on the 4", I'd try 500-600 Hz/1st order to start with and maybe work down from there.
GM
GM
I am trying to learn here. Ignoring the use of active xo's - would a High-pass filter not be better in this case? To relieve the FR from bass duty?
^ Yes, you are right, a crossover is two or more filters, in this case a high pass and a low pass that combine to "crossover" the frequencies to the drivers
Even though the FR driver will have falling LF acoustic output below its natural corner, or depending on the enclosure, a higher frequency, I doubt it ever hurts to high pass filter it to avoid overtaxing the drive train .
Makes so much more sense now. I think I understand now why an active xo or miniDSP is so much easier and flexible.
And the resistor summing network in Post 3 was also very informative and useful. I learn more every day. Thank you.
An alternative to using a summing network would be to use one of the twin coil Monacor drivers (eg 135 TC) Each channel connects to it's own coil on the same driver. Not necessarily better, but an option.
Full of it
I've got quite a few back up drivers left from old projects I've built and sold over thirty odd years, but happily, never had to replace a failed one.
I'm going to attempt a box speaker satellite pair for myself, two way satellites with a twist.
I have no urge to buy more drivers, but will try to make a punchy system using a MarkAudio 12P,
and on each side of the cabinet, a single MarkAudio 12PW, to handle midbass.
I'll be starting with an active crossover, and my amps will handle 4 or 8 ohm loads without complaint. Will the midbass blend properly with the 12P , if crossing at 200-300 hertz?
Each twin 12PW pair would only go down to 80 hertz, me trying to limit Doppler distoryion in the frequencies I'm most sensitive to it. I did build three or four different 12PW projects, but I guess my hearing may be shot. I prefer the 12P upper range.
Lower bass will continue to be handled by two stereo box subs, one sealed, one ported, same internal displacement. Ported one goes flat with near corner loading to 22 hertz, the sealed to 40 hertz, very near flat.
Got the idea from a friend showing me a picture of a Carver monopolar planar tweeter in a tiny satellite, in front of and between two small woofers, maybe 5" or so.
Oh, my guess is about 2ft3 cabinets, for all three drivers, no port tuning contemplated at this time.
Workable or no?
I realize I'll most likely be adding zobels or even series crossover components, but hopefully nothing in series. Relative playback levels between drivers may be handled by my active crossovers.
Will be out of the hospital in less than a week, so hoping for some opinions, or maybe rethink before starting. I'm currently accustomed to open baffles, about 5'3" by 24", two way horn hybridsassisted by stereo subs. Naturally, I want somethings a little smaller. Currently have quite a few choices, but only 2 types of box speakers or satellites.
Thanks in advance.
I've got quite a few back up drivers left from old projects I've built and sold over thirty odd years, but happily, never had to replace a failed one.
I'm going to attempt a box speaker satellite pair for myself, two way satellites with a twist.
I have no urge to buy more drivers, but will try to make a punchy system using a MarkAudio 12P,
and on each side of the cabinet, a single MarkAudio 12PW, to handle midbass.
I'll be starting with an active crossover, and my amps will handle 4 or 8 ohm loads without complaint. Will the midbass blend properly with the 12P , if crossing at 200-300 hertz?
Each twin 12PW pair would only go down to 80 hertz, me trying to limit Doppler distoryion in the frequencies I'm most sensitive to it. I did build three or four different 12PW projects, but I guess my hearing may be shot. I prefer the 12P upper range.
Lower bass will continue to be handled by two stereo box subs, one sealed, one ported, same internal displacement. Ported one goes flat with near corner loading to 22 hertz, the sealed to 40 hertz, very near flat.
Got the idea from a friend showing me a picture of a Carver monopolar planar tweeter in a tiny satellite, in front of and between two small woofers, maybe 5" or so.
Oh, my guess is about 2ft3 cabinets, for all three drivers, no port tuning contemplated at this time.
Workable or no?
I realize I'll most likely be adding zobels or even series crossover components, but hopefully nothing in series. Relative playback levels between drivers may be handled by my active crossovers.
Will be out of the hospital in less than a week, so hoping for some opinions, or maybe rethink before starting. I'm currently accustomed to open baffles, about 5'3" by 24", two way horn hybridsassisted by stereo subs. Naturally, I want somethings a little smaller. Currently have quite a few choices, but only 2 types of box speakers or satellites.
Thanks in advance.