Scored a pair of D130's on the chizzity-cheap! The first owner cut out the aluminum diaphragm because he said it sounded better, but I'd like to repair it.
I've seen replacements that stick on just like a regular dust cover. Will that do, or is there a more involved solution that I need to do?
I've seen replacements that stick on just like a regular dust cover. Will that do, or is there a more involved solution that I need to do?
that would depend on what sort of duty/end use your intending for them.
some caps are a fabric mesh that breathes others are solid and can cause weezing in the rear vent.
in my tenure as a soundman i've seen my fair share of split and loose aluminum dust caps on these.
as a guitar speaker the alum caps are great for extending upper mids and high end but for bass duty i use to replace them with breathable mesh fiber caps.
some caps are a fabric mesh that breathes others are solid and can cause weezing in the rear vent.
in my tenure as a soundman i've seen my fair share of split and loose aluminum dust caps on these.
as a guitar speaker the alum caps are great for extending upper mids and high end but for bass duty i use to replace them with breathable mesh fiber caps.
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The intent will be to use them as the woofers in a 2-way econowave build. I assume in a ported or vented cab.
From what I understand, the aluminum diaphragm increases high frequency response. That appeals to me because it would make the interaction between a 15" woofer and compression driver less strained. @turk_182, in your personal preference, would you replace the aluminum or just pop a mesh one on?
Here's an thread where the D130F (12" for Fender amps) has the diaphragm attached between the coil and cone: http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?25162-New-Dust-Cap-for-D130F-Woofer
So I guess the question is, how do I do that? Has anyone done this before?
I'm ok doing invasive surgery, but I'd like to see some indication of how to do it first
From what I understand, the aluminum diaphragm increases high frequency response. That appeals to me because it would make the interaction between a 15" woofer and compression driver less strained. @turk_182, in your personal preference, would you replace the aluminum or just pop a mesh one on?
Here's an thread where the D130F (12" for Fender amps) has the diaphragm attached between the coil and cone: http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?25162-New-Dust-Cap-for-D130F-Woofer
So I guess the question is, how do I do that? Has anyone done this before?
I'm ok doing invasive surgery, but I'd like to see some indication of how to do it first
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i've never encountered a d130 where the cap was between the coil and cone.
the first recones on d130 i did had separate components later kits came with coil former, spider, and cone joined and in both cases the dust cap is always installed last (cant align the recone without accessing the pole piece)
there is little clearance or difference between the coil former size and the outer circumference of the cap so in removing one i cut about a quarter inch away (careful of angle and depth) and re-trim after the main portion of the cap is removed.
check out simplyspeakers they have a few youtoob video's on reconing that you'll find enlightening.
examine the one you have with the cap removed and you can see the clearance issue.
i once without thinking cut clear through cap and cone but a liberal application of glue allowed me to use it for 2 years (no noticeable difference in sound) before a DC 300a going south killed it.
the first recones on d130 i did had separate components later kits came with coil former, spider, and cone joined and in both cases the dust cap is always installed last (cant align the recone without accessing the pole piece)
there is little clearance or difference between the coil former size and the outer circumference of the cap so in removing one i cut about a quarter inch away (careful of angle and depth) and re-trim after the main portion of the cap is removed.
check out simplyspeakers they have a few youtoob video's on reconing that you'll find enlightening.
examine the one you have with the cap removed and you can see the clearance issue.
i once without thinking cut clear through cap and cone but a liberal application of glue allowed me to use it for 2 years (no noticeable difference in sound) before a DC 300a going south killed it.
and there in lies the problem it's a preference...
in a two way where your going to need the upper mid i would go aluminum cap if you not expecting to run it much above 250hz fiber.
there's always the compromise dust cap which is created with a new cap with a 3/4 inch hole in the center removed and a piece of fine mesh across the opening.(i wish i had a pic to show you what i mean)
in a two way where your going to need the upper mid i would go aluminum cap if you not expecting to run it much above 250hz fiber.
there's always the compromise dust cap which is created with a new cap with a 3/4 inch hole in the center removed and a piece of fine mesh across the opening.(i wish i had a pic to show you what i mean)
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i've used everything from nylon screening to silk
some tight silks or tight weave fabrics can weaze at high spl's.
my go to is drapery sheers most are open weaves and can be found in a wide range of mesh sizes and colors. when it comes to small pieces the fabric store where the wife likes to shop are free.
some tight silks or tight weave fabrics can weaze at high spl's.
my go to is drapery sheers most are open weaves and can be found in a wide range of mesh sizes and colors. when it comes to small pieces the fabric store where the wife likes to shop are free.
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