Hello, I recently bought a TPA3116 Amplifier with 2x50w and 1x100w @4ohms.
I then bought 2 Fountek FE85 (Fountek FE85 3" Full Range Driver | 296-717) speakers, which handle the highs pretty well, but definitely need some bass to go with them. I was wondering if I could buy a midbass woofer, like this (Fountek FW168 6-1/2" Aluminum Midwoofer | 296-729) and plug it into the 100w jack?
Thanks for your help!
I then bought 2 Fountek FE85 (Fountek FE85 3" Full Range Driver | 296-717) speakers, which handle the highs pretty well, but definitely need some bass to go with them. I was wondering if I could buy a midbass woofer, like this (Fountek FW168 6-1/2" Aluminum Midwoofer | 296-729) and plug it into the 100w jack?
Thanks for your help!
This isn't where I got mine from, but it is exactly the same:
2.1 High-power 100W Digital Amplifier Board Subwoofer TPA3116D2 Super Bass 50W+50W - Free Shipping - ThanksBuyer
2.1 High-power 100W Digital Amplifier Board Subwoofer TPA3116D2 Super Bass 50W+50W - Free Shipping - ThanksBuyer
Looks to me like it'll low-pass the subwoofer, but won't do anything for the L&R signals.
So yes, you could add the woofer in its own box, and get some more low end.
The problem is that the 3" full-rangers will still be flapping around trying to do bass, which will increase distortion in the rest of the range.
Ideally, you'd add a high-pass filter to the stereo channels to reduce cone excursion of the full-range drivers once the bass driver has taken over.
HTH
Chris
So yes, you could add the woofer in its own box, and get some more low end.
The problem is that the 3" full-rangers will still be flapping around trying to do bass, which will increase distortion in the rest of the range.
Ideally, you'd add a high-pass filter to the stereo channels to reduce cone excursion of the full-range drivers once the bass driver has taken over.
HTH
Chris
The L&R channels are indeed full range based on comments in TPA3116D2 thread - and you are one of the first users to report that you have bought this particular amp. You might try posting in that thread in the class D forum to see if anyone else has had success implementing a high pass filter. You cannot do it at line level because the amp has only one input for the tops and sub. You will need to put a big capacitor in series at speaker level. Probably around 150uF to get down to suitable crossover range within the bandwidth of the amps sub output (200 Hz max probably).
These amps sound really good and are a great value. It may be worthwhile to get a couple of plain stereo boards (get the YJ "blue" board ) and then implement a second order line level passive crossover for the full range and woofer. That way you will not need big fat caps at speaker level and you get -12dB/oct slope vs only -6dB/oct with the capacitor.
Here is an example of a 300 Hz line level passive XO implemented for the typical 30kohm input impedance that most manufacturers of the tpa3116 amps have chosen (dictated by 26dB gain setting on amp).
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/249984-cheap-fast-ob-literally.html#post3794422
Alternatively, you can go fully active cross over like I have done and use something like a miniDSP and two of the stereo 2.0 amps in an active bi-amp config. This way sounds best and lets you play with XO freq, slope, type, and also lets you do EQ'ing. I highly recommend this path.
These amps sound really good and are a great value. It may be worthwhile to get a couple of plain stereo boards (get the YJ "blue" board ) and then implement a second order line level passive crossover for the full range and woofer. That way you will not need big fat caps at speaker level and you get -12dB/oct slope vs only -6dB/oct with the capacitor.
Here is an example of a 300 Hz line level passive XO implemented for the typical 30kohm input impedance that most manufacturers of the tpa3116 amps have chosen (dictated by 26dB gain setting on amp).
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/249984-cheap-fast-ob-literally.html#post3794422
Alternatively, you can go fully active cross over like I have done and use something like a miniDSP and two of the stereo 2.0 amps in an active bi-amp config. This way sounds best and lets you play with XO freq, slope, type, and also lets you do EQ'ing. I highly recommend this path.
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