Hi all,
I am currently upgrading the resistors to Takmans on my 8600.
All went well until I got to Resistor R240. The desolder tape got soldered to the pad and ended up taking the pad with it - see pic attached.
I guess my options are:
1. nuke option: Negotiate for a replacement board from Elekit
2. Hope that with enough solder, it will make contact with what remains of the sides of pad.
3. Add appropriate jumper wires to connected components.
Anyone have any suggestions as to the best course of action?
I really like my 8600, so I'm quite angsty about this.
I am currently upgrading the resistors to Takmans on my 8600.
All went well until I got to Resistor R240. The desolder tape got soldered to the pad and ended up taking the pad with it - see pic attached.
I guess my options are:
1. nuke option: Negotiate for a replacement board from Elekit
2. Hope that with enough solder, it will make contact with what remains of the sides of pad.
3. Add appropriate jumper wires to connected components.
Anyone have any suggestions as to the best course of action?
I really like my 8600, so I'm quite angsty about this.
Attachments
Digikey has a guide that is fairly basic, but covers what you need, a quick search should reveal the list.
Also, you might try switching to a solder sucker. I prefer the sucker over tape as I find I can work much faster, reducing the risk of a lifted pad. Before I got the sucker I dealt with lifted pads pretty often...
Also, you might try switching to a solder sucker. I prefer the sucker over tape as I find I can work much faster, reducing the risk of a lifted pad. Before I got the sucker I dealt with lifted pads pretty often...
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The flux is a great call. In lieu of flux, if you have flux core solder you can add a small amount of solder to the connection (really quick, without flowing the solder much) and then immediately desolder. That can help remove all the solder.
Another trick when removing a large number of components (and I say this as I've replaced all the resistors in my TU-8200 once, and all the capacitors multiple times as I play with components) is to desolder one leg of a component, then switch over to the same component on the other channel, allowing the first component to cool before desoldering the second leg.
Another trick when removing a large number of components (and I say this as I've replaced all the resistors in my TU-8200 once, and all the capacitors multiple times as I play with components) is to desolder one leg of a component, then switch over to the same component on the other channel, allowing the first component to cool before desoldering the second leg.
I would do that too.
Flaky pcb or too much heat.
On my solder suck I put some short silicon sleeving over the end and it seals around holes better and sucks out solder first go.
Many thanks for the replies. I have a solder sucker but I need to practice, but I'll take your advice.
I did just as suggested - scrapped away the laquer on the ground trace and soldered to the exposed copper ground trace. Doesn't even look too bad.
Replacing with Takman resistors is not a trivial task. The Takman legs don't leave much room in the holes, so if you leave any solder, chances are you'll push the pad off the board on the other side. Thankfully the few I pushed off the board remained attached. Not too many more to go now.
I'm going to add a balanced headphone output off the speaker outputs and them I'm done (besides better 300s).
I did just as suggested - scrapped away the laquer on the ground trace and soldered to the exposed copper ground trace. Doesn't even look too bad.
Replacing with Takman resistors is not a trivial task. The Takman legs don't leave much room in the holes, so if you leave any solder, chances are you'll push the pad off the board on the other side. Thankfully the few I pushed off the board remained attached.
Not too many more to go now.I'm going to add a balanced headphone output off the speaker outputs and them I'm done (besides better 300s).
Hi scottme,
I am a beginner, so I cannot give any advices, I have just short notices.
The isopropilalcohol with brush will help you to clean the board up.
Desolder tape works better with flux of course as it was already mentioned before.
Solder sucker is cheep and quickly removes a big amount of solder. I use it as a first,
afterfards I clean the rest with a tape. I gues you are using the lead free solder.
This needs much higher temperature. I use only old type of solder with lead.
It is much easier, quicker and safer for PCB and components too.
When I checked your attached picture, there is another place where the connection
is almost interrupted. Check it carefully. I wish you good luck. I am building my 8200R now so I will need a good luck too.
I am a beginner, so I cannot give any advices, I have just short notices.
The isopropilalcohol with brush will help you to clean the board up.
Desolder tape works better with flux of course as it was already mentioned before.
Solder sucker is cheep and quickly removes a big amount of solder. I use it as a first,
afterfards I clean the rest with a tape. I gues you are using the lead free solder.
This needs much higher temperature. I use only old type of solder with lead.
It is much easier, quicker and safer for PCB and components too.
When I checked your attached picture, there is another place where the connection
is almost interrupted. Check it carefully. I wish you good luck. I am building my 8200R now so I will need a good luck too.
I've done a fair amount of board repair over the years.
I would use a jewelers screwdriver (or similar) to scrape away enough
of the covering over the copper to give something to solder to.
Then bend the component lead to lay against the exposed copper and solder.
I've never been a fan of solder wick, but sometimes if you add a little flux it helps.
If you start building a lot of kits (or start repairing gear)
then a de-sloldering tool becomes a good investment.
I would use a jewelers screwdriver (or similar) to scrape away enough
of the covering over the copper to give something to solder to.
Then bend the component lead to lay against the exposed copper and solder.
I've never been a fan of solder wick, but sometimes if you add a little flux it helps.
If you start building a lot of kits (or start repairing gear)
then a de-sloldering tool becomes a good investment.
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