Hi All,
Hopefully someone out there can help me with my cd player. As mentioned, it's a Technics SL-P990. Plays for a few minutes then randomly skips either back a few seconds or forwards in large chunks. I've searched through the threads and checked that the disc clamp is secure, everything is free and mobile as necessary and I've cleaned the lens with distilled water. Still the same. Does anyone have a service manual/guide for this player or provide me with details of how to check for laser strength/focus as you can with a CDM4? It's a great player and I'd hate to bin it. I also have a SL-P777 and this gives me no trouble at all but the mechanisms are different.
Regards
Mat
Hopefully someone out there can help me with my cd player. As mentioned, it's a Technics SL-P990. Plays for a few minutes then randomly skips either back a few seconds or forwards in large chunks. I've searched through the threads and checked that the disc clamp is secure, everything is free and mobile as necessary and I've cleaned the lens with distilled water. Still the same. Does anyone have a service manual/guide for this player or provide me with details of how to check for laser strength/focus as you can with a CDM4? It's a great player and I'd hate to bin it. I also have a SL-P777 and this gives me no trouble at all but the mechanisms are different.
Regards
Mat
Hi Gasho,
Thanks for your reply. Are there any identifying characteristics for cdm 12.1? I know what CDM 2 and 4 look like but not 12. I've actually just taken a drastic step and cleaned the lens with optics cleaner and it's a whole lot better, although time will tell as to it's effectiveness. If you do have any info regarding the 12.1 re adjustment it'd be greatly appreciated for future reference.
Many thanks
Mat
Thanks for your reply. Are there any identifying characteristics for cdm 12.1? I know what CDM 2 and 4 look like but not 12. I've actually just taken a drastic step and cleaned the lens with optics cleaner and it's a whole lot better, although time will tell as to it's effectiveness. If you do have any info regarding the 12.1 re adjustment it'd be greatly appreciated for future reference.
Many thanks
Mat
Hi again,
It has started skipping again after around 3 hours faultless play. I think I have found the problem. The laser is moved via an elaborate electromagnet system that I have not seen before. It parallels the guide rails and moves in a push pull arrangement. I noticed when closing the drawer with no cd in that the laser was sticking on the guide rails when powered up, sometimes moving further than other times. I have cleaned the rails with contact cleaner leaving no residue and now the laser seems to move far better. This I would imagine could most certainly have given me the symptoms I had. I'll keep an eye on it and see if this has worked.
Thanks
Mat
It has started skipping again after around 3 hours faultless play. I think I have found the problem. The laser is moved via an elaborate electromagnet system that I have not seen before. It parallels the guide rails and moves in a push pull arrangement. I noticed when closing the drawer with no cd in that the laser was sticking on the guide rails when powered up, sometimes moving further than other times. I have cleaned the rails with contact cleaner leaving no residue and now the laser seems to move far better. This I would imagine could most certainly have given me the symptoms I had. I'll keep an eye on it and see if this has worked.
Thanks
Mat
Hi Mat,
That's a Technics mechanism.
You need to do the following. Release the slide rails and work on them one at a time. Watch you don't damage the carbon track that provides position information underneath.
Clean the rail with Alcohol or lacquer thinner. Use a touch of very fine "diamond oil" or some other very fine oil (single weight, no additives). Make the coating even and wipe it off lightly. Reinstall the rail and repeat for the other. You may want to clean out the bearings in the head.
The slide motor is a linear type. Very quick. I like them. If you don't have the proper oil, try to buy some from Technics. It isn't cheap, but it is critically important. This transport is far better than the Philips types.
-Chris
That's a Technics mechanism.
You need to do the following. Release the slide rails and work on them one at a time. Watch you don't damage the carbon track that provides position information underneath.
Clean the rail with Alcohol or lacquer thinner. Use a touch of very fine "diamond oil" or some other very fine oil (single weight, no additives). Make the coating even and wipe it off lightly. Reinstall the rail and repeat for the other. You may want to clean out the bearings in the head.
The slide motor is a linear type. Very quick. I like them. If you don't have the proper oil, try to buy some from Technics. It isn't cheap, but it is critically important. This transport is far better than the Philips types.
-Chris
Hi Anatech, could it look like this?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=75883
I removed this from the Acurus last night and found a little PCB including crystal and some chips on it, one of them branded Technics.
I am really trying to establish what mech this is...
Thanks
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=75883
I removed this from the Acurus last night and found a little PCB including crystal and some chips on it, one of them branded Technics.
I am really trying to establish what mech this is...
Thanks
Hi anatech,
Many thanks for the information regarding the Technics mechanism. I must admit it does seem far better quality than the cdm2 in my Cambridge CD2. You are right it is very quick and absolutely silent in operation. I will try the method you suggest with each rail and will try to obtain the correct fluid as I intend to keep the player. After opening my SL-P777 and feeling disappointed as to the lack of gubbins inside I was well pleased looking in the 990. Nice big Nichicon Muse caps,with 99% of the others being Elna, coloured red, plus twin psus! It sounds great when on form so I'll keep on trucking.
Thanks again
Mat
Many thanks for the information regarding the Technics mechanism. I must admit it does seem far better quality than the cdm2 in my Cambridge CD2. You are right it is very quick and absolutely silent in operation. I will try the method you suggest with each rail and will try to obtain the correct fluid as I intend to keep the player. After opening my SL-P777 and feeling disappointed as to the lack of gubbins inside I was well pleased looking in the 990. Nice big Nichicon Muse caps,with 99% of the others being Elna, coloured red, plus twin psus! It sounds great when on form so I'll keep on trucking.
Thanks again
Mat
Hi Guillaume,
Sorry, I don't recognize transports all dressed up. I need to see them naked (that's how they get when they are on the bench).
I am not at all impressed with newer Philips transports at all. They have highly variable RF output levels, high noise and lot's of jitter. Plastic landfill. The "pro" designation is a bit of a joke. The old Sony mechs using the KSS-210A was miles ahead in quality, and it was repairable.
Technics makes their own proprietary mechanisms. They generally work very well and last.
-Chris
Sorry, I don't recognize transports all dressed up. I need to see them naked (that's how they get when they are on the bench).
I am not at all impressed with newer Philips transports at all. They have highly variable RF output levels, high noise and lot's of jitter. Plastic landfill. The "pro" designation is a bit of a joke. The old Sony mechs using the KSS-210A was miles ahead in quality, and it was repairable.
Technics makes their own proprietary mechanisms. They generally work very well and last.
-Chris
Thanks Anatech
Will see if I find the courage to strip a perfectly functioning mech to absolute hustler state....
Just need to decide if I want to hold on to this player or not...
It will have to be superior to the Theta Data Basic II (cdm9 pro) as a transport, as a player it is not as good as my Data Basic/DS Pro Basic.
AND, I need to know if I will be able to buy new lasers before it takes long term residence in my abode........
Thanks
Guillaume
Will see if I find the courage to strip a perfectly functioning mech to absolute hustler state....
Just need to decide if I want to hold on to this player or not...
It will have to be superior to the Theta Data Basic II (cdm9 pro) as a transport, as a player it is not as good as my Data Basic/DS Pro Basic.
AND, I need to know if I will be able to buy new lasers before it takes long term residence in my abode........
Thanks
Guillaume
Hi Guillaume,
I don't care for the Technics sound either, seems they "mash" the sound.
The easy answer to your question would be a call to the local Technics service facility. Disc motors, laser heads and suspension rubber seem to be the biggest problems. Get a spare belt while you are at it.
If the tech indicates these items are fine, get spares and the manual anyhow. Have him optimize the adjustments.
-Chris
I don't care for the Technics sound either, seems they "mash" the sound.
The easy answer to your question would be a call to the local Technics service facility. Disc motors, laser heads and suspension rubber seem to be the biggest problems. Get a spare belt while you are at it.If the tech indicates these items are fine, get spares and the manual anyhow. Have him optimize the adjustments.
-Chris
Hi anatech,
Your advice has paid off! After carfeully following the procedure you gave me I have had two days of faultless performance. I agree with you on the "technics sound" but it does not seem to be a problem with this player. It's certainly a lot better than the SL-P777 I have, far fuller and darker silences. It's not as good as my CD2 but certainly less japanese and "electronically processed" than many others, e.g Yamaha that I also have. Now if I could just make the bass as good as on my CD104, I'd be happy!
Thanks again
Mat
Your advice has paid off! After carfeully following the procedure you gave me I have had two days of faultless performance. I agree with you on the "technics sound" but it does not seem to be a problem with this player. It's certainly a lot better than the SL-P777 I have, far fuller and darker silences. It's not as good as my CD2 but certainly less japanese and "electronically processed" than many others, e.g Yamaha that I also have. Now if I could just make the bass as good as on my CD104, I'd be happy!
Thanks again
Mat
Hi Matt,
I'm happy things are working out so far.
Improving the sound might be as easy ($$) as adding an outboard DAC. Try for a multibit type. You could take the CD player in and try them in the store, you can then compare with the built in DAC to make sure you are moving up.
IMHO the only way to modify your machine would be to bypass the D/A and analog section and install a D/A - audio board. It's a lot of work and the external DAC can move from machine to machine as required.
-Chris
I'm happy things are working out so far.
Improving the sound might be as easy ($$) as adding an outboard DAC. Try for a multibit type. You could take the CD player in and try them in the store, you can then compare with the built in DAC to make sure you are moving up.
IMHO the only way to modify your machine would be to bypass the D/A and analog section and install a D/A - audio board. It's a lot of work and the external DAC can move from machine to machine as required.
-Chris
Hi all
Did some listening to the Acurus (Technics based mech I now assume) vs Theta Data Basic II (CDM9 pro based with various tweaks added by me).
Well, the Theta will remain my drive of choice feeding a DS Pro Basic II DAC.
The Acurus CD Player is considered a good transport by many on the net, in fact acurus talk more about the wonders of this mech then the DAC on the player literature.
In summary I would say that the Theta provides a deeper soundstage, has a subtle unforced nature and is quite lush in its presentation with lovely unforced detail and focus. The Acurus makes one sit up and take notice but it seems more HiFi, I like some of its exuberance but it gets a little more tyring on harder sounding discs. My wife says it sounds like the Acurus tries too hard in comparison.
If the discussed Technics player is anything like this Acurus, I would recommend a DAC with a mellower tone, multibit perhaps with a tube?
Did some listening to the Acurus (Technics based mech I now assume) vs Theta Data Basic II (CDM9 pro based with various tweaks added by me).
Well, the Theta will remain my drive of choice feeding a DS Pro Basic II DAC.
The Acurus CD Player is considered a good transport by many on the net, in fact acurus talk more about the wonders of this mech then the DAC on the player literature.
In summary I would say that the Theta provides a deeper soundstage, has a subtle unforced nature and is quite lush in its presentation with lovely unforced detail and focus. The Acurus makes one sit up and take notice but it seems more HiFi, I like some of its exuberance but it gets a little more tyring on harder sounding discs. My wife says it sounds like the Acurus tries too hard in comparison.
If the discussed Technics player is anything like this Acurus, I would recommend a DAC with a mellower tone, multibit perhaps with a tube?
This is from a long time ago I know, but I've had this skipping error on our SL-P770 for years and just found this thread after hours of searching. I've just carried-out the lubrication of the slide rails and the player is now working perfectly again, so my thanks to Anatech for the guide from 12 years ago!
Last edited:
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.