Hiya,
I have a cd80 i that bought new in 1993. it is a fantastic player, one i would not be keen on replacing. My cd80 runs pretty hot thouhg, the heatsink runs hot (as it always has) but the cds often come out of the drawer very warm after playback - is this normal? the machine behaves well in all other rspects. I am concerned as i have just placed damping sheets onto the inner chassis, case and ICs, and wondered if this was the cause.
One of the lights above above the cd drawer that create the blue glow (is this the same as the green/blue lights that others (Krell, YBA) bathe the laser in?) has failed - are these common devices?
Finally does anyone have a schematic or know where i could find one?
thanx
I have a cd80 i that bought new in 1993. it is a fantastic player, one i would not be keen on replacing. My cd80 runs pretty hot thouhg, the heatsink runs hot (as it always has) but the cds often come out of the drawer very warm after playback - is this normal? the machine behaves well in all other rspects. I am concerned as i have just placed damping sheets onto the inner chassis, case and ICs, and wondered if this was the cause.
One of the lights above above the cd drawer that create the blue glow (is this the same as the green/blue lights that others (Krell, YBA) bathe the laser in?) has failed - are these common devices?
Finally does anyone have a schematic or know where i could find one?
thanx
My cd80 runs does not get very hot during operation. It just get's a little bit warm. Better not stick damping material on your ic's.
It is better to shield them with copper! The 7220 that is inside your player is known to run hot, but you have to make sure that it can 'lose' it's heat.
René
p.s. the shielding will give great results
It is better to shield them with copper! The 7220 that is inside your player is known to run hot, but you have to make sure that it can 'lose' it's heat.
René
p.s. the shielding will give great results
You can use thin sheets of copper to attach to the ic's, or buy copper tape. This is much easier to use. You have to have real skills to make copper "cases" to shield lets say an 1541.
If you really want do dampen the case of the cd-80 you have to give the main transformer it's own casing with added mains- filter to get maximum results. I am planning to do this mod myself.
Greetz
If you really want do dampen the case of the cd-80 you have to give the main transformer it's own casing with added mains- filter to get maximum results. I am planning to do this mod myself.
Greetz
Quite common, I took one as an example to the electronics shop. Tell them it´s 12 V, no problem.
I got a CD 80 second hand some months ago, and exchanged the lights for three blue LED´s (with resistors..) Now THIS was getting hot
frying my CD´s worried me too. Now with two small bulbs it´s not too much, but still hot IMO. Maybe I´ll just tear all the lighting out next time I open it up..Putting damping sheet inside the case astonished me quite a lot, more improvement than I had thought!
I must say my CD80 always ran warmish from new, the heatsink at least i always remember as running hot, but i do live in South Africa where it is pretty hot a lot of the time - but it has survived 12 years so far! I took the damping off the DAC and other large chips but left it on the opamps, in fact i placed the removed material on the coupling caps, can't say i heard a difference though.
Miniwatt said:
Quite common, I took one as an example to the electronics shop. Tell them it´s 12 V, no problem.
I got a CD 80 second hand some months ago, and exchanged the lights for three blue LED´s (with resistors..) Now THIS was getting hot
Putting damping sheet inside the case astonished me quite a lot, more improvement than I had thought!
There should not be much heat build up with standard LEDs. Blue ones can run a bit cooler with lower current. As a bonus LEDs practically never fail. Don't leave out the lights, it sounds better with the lights on
Well green lights bathing the UNDERSIDE of the cd are supposed to improve the lasers read rate(?) via a phenomonon (scuse the spelling) called stochastic resonance. However on the CD80 the lights are above the cd and in front of the lil window that lets you watch the cd spin. I would assume this was cosmetic with the colour of the lights matching the display.
Speaking of the display, is there any way of switching it off and would it make a difference to the sound? I know these flourescent displays use oscillators and the display board itself is unsheilded, whilst other players offder this option.
Speaking of the display, is there any way of switching it off and would it make a difference to the sound? I know these flourescent displays use oscillators and the display board itself is unsheilded, whilst other players offder this option.
Modicum,
You can add shielding to this part of the cd80.
By cutting a sheet of aluminium or copper to exact measurements and the add this to the sides that you to shield off, by using these "special screws" to keep a distance between the shield and the print of the display.
Maybe Jean Paul knows a way to switch of the display of the cd80?
René
p.s. off topic Jean Paul, do you know what the op amp does that sits next to the tda1541 a in the c.d. 80, and can it be improved by changing it to another opamp. Furthermore do you have experiences regarding substituting the 'old' opamps in the cd80 to ad797!! Please let me know because i am very curious to know what you think.
You can add shielding to this part of the cd80.
By cutting a sheet of aluminium or copper to exact measurements and the add this to the sides that you to shield off, by using these "special screws" to keep a distance between the shield and the print of the display.
Maybe Jean Paul knows a way to switch of the display of the cd80?
René
p.s. off topic Jean Paul, do you know what the op amp does that sits next to the tda1541 a in the c.d. 80, and can it be improved by changing it to another opamp. Furthermore do you have experiences regarding substituting the 'old' opamps in the cd80 to ad797!! Please let me know because i am very curious to know what you think.
Good point rene, i am just loathe to fiddle to greatly as i have an unsteady hand at the best of times (with soldering iron of course....) Do a search in this forum on the CD80, jean paul has given extensive answers to the op amp substituition thing. well worth reading the posts to get an understanding of the substitutions. OPA627s are recommended in place of the 5534s but there are parts you should remove as well if you are going to do this.
No it is not fine as it is. It is fine mechanically ( however damping is beneficial ) but clearly lacks things on the electronic side. Let's say that the base is good to start with. Which is extraordinary on its own
Only after mods have been done it is a very special product. Just try a Search on CD80 here for info ( just do it ).
Only after mods have been done it is a very special product. Just try a Search on CD80 here for info ( just do it ).