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#471 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
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Quote:
I think also the NC400 as well needs huge amounts of gain, probably more than could be obtained from a maxed-out balanced line output though. |
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#472 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
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#473 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2019
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Quote:
They're used as high-pass coupling caps. Since the design is single supply they're needed to avoid a DC offset. As implemented they don't affect performance (re: measurements look fine / meet DAC spec). |
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#474 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
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Quote:
Raphael P.S. For all waiting for a bugfix, I feel really sorry that you have to wait so long. I had very stressful time the past two month in my main job. But it is getting more relaxed now, therefore, I can spend more time on Aurora again. |
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#475 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
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Quote:
![]() Still sucks that they're electrolytics though. With so many of them, it's only a matter of time (10-15 years?) before some have to get replaced. |
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#476 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: West Riding of Yorkshire, England
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@dspverden: Hi, I sent an email to your website email address but I’ve not had a response.
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#477 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Santa Cruz, California
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Quote:
IN THEORY since the inputs are differential pairs, by the same principle you should be able to simply bypass the input caps so long as both inputs are referenced to 0 volts. It will fail miserably if either input is left open. However, I have NOT tried this. Since most opamps aren't incredibly happy with inputs at either rail I'd want to breadboard a copy of the input circuit and test voltages at the opamp input pins to make sure they're at Virtual Ground (1/2 Vcc or 2.5 volts) as they should be, instead of Real Ground. If they're not, then the breadboarding just saved you considerable grief. Or you could simply bypass the input electrolytics with some decent film caps, say around 2.2 uF. Unless your soldering skills are really on point I would advise against it, though, and any film cap with a high enough value to be useful would also have pin spacing wider than the electrolytics' pin spacing so the retrofit would be a bit of a hack job. tl;dr: getting around the caps can be done -- so long as you know exactly what you're doing & you're okay with nuking the warranty ![]() Last edited by DSP_Geek; 26th November 2020 at 04:59 PM. |
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#478 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Bypassing the electrolytics is an viable approach, I think, even if the leads are way longer (i.e. stick out) because there shouldn't be very much EMI/RFI and the excess inductance probably won't hurt the function of the caps. 2.2 uF is a far cry from the 100 uF caps that are there right now, though. On that note, any idea why 100 uF was chosen as the cap value? https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/...FG4IpGWg%3D%3D |
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#479 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Santa Cruz, California
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Why 100 uF? Haven't the faintest. 100 uF with 10 Kohms input resistance yields a -3 dB corner frequency of 0.16 Hz, whereas 2.2 uF at the same input R is closer to 7 Hz and 4.7 uF is about 3 Hz. The -1 dB points are an octave above the -3 dB rolloff so there might be a slight advantage to the 4.7 over the 2.2 if you want to hear blue whales
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#480 |
diyAudio Member
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They form a highpass filter with the input impedance. the higher the capacitanse the lower in frequency, less phase shift for the audio frequenvies. 100uf is propably a convenient value, might be a size constrain, or same cap somewhere else as well for bulk discount and smaller inventory
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